Sideways

Weekly bump

Bump. still looking.

Title says it all. If you have some ZG flares youre willing to let go let me know, painted/unpainted used/unused, dont care as long as theyre in good condition. Send me a text to 702 505 6896 or Email at SidewaysGts at Gmail.com with your price and maybe pictures if you have them. Side note: Also have my eye out for a cheap used aftermarket suspension (maybe from someone who converted to coilovers?) If you have something laying around (Eibach springs, Hp shocks, whatever it is, dont care) let me know what you have and how much youd be willing to let it go for. I have a 72 2240z- so no 260/280 stuff please. Thanks again everyone

Been awhile since I did mine, but i just used 240z ss lines for my vented front set up

I cringed a little when i saw the back of that thrust washer. That thing is a smidge more fubar than I thought. Straightaway From WME btw (Side note: My wme pun name will make sense now hah). Best of luck man. I have to admit I feel kind of bad in some odd way watching your project, Its like every time i took a step towards getting mine on the road, yours took a step back. Bad voodoo. Get that thing back on the road asap!

Have to admit i like the fender and the rear of the car. Ive wondered for ages how some fender ducts like that would look for aerodynamic reasons. Not half bad at all.

Ok for the life of my I cant figure this out- and trying to find videos isnt helping much at all. How are the brake/running lights supposed to be set up on the 240z? I was under the impression that the upper two lights were the running/brake lights, and the lower light was for the turn signals, ie: (Yes i know big phils car was a 280z to begin with, just showing) But mine work completely different. The upper 2 are the running lights, and the upper/outer light, and the lower light are the brake lights/turn signal. Ie: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHXfViZPTV4 But then ive seen OTHER videos even yet, where ALL 3 lights come on while braking My question is- how is it SUPPOSED to be set up- and does anyone have any advice as to how i can get mine to work like what i thought they would/big phils? With the upper 2 being brakes/running lights, and the lower being a turn signal light? Im not a wiring guy so this will hopefully be a decent "learning" experience

Anyone know where I can find these? Those little tiny plastic clips that go into the door handles inside the door itself that the rod snaps into that operates the door release? See them pop up on ebay once in awhile, but am hoping to find a pair of them.

http://xenons130.com/reference.html

Indeed it is. That said, the left is scaled to 400, the right is scaled to 450. Edit: Doh went through, braaap beat me to it haha

I raise the notion to have a generous fellow HZ member scan these the article and put them up for the rest of us!

Correct me if im wrong but i was under the impression that the wind tunnel tests showed that adding flares reduced drag? Test 20 in the results on the test mule.

Title says it all. Looking for a manual trans from an 81-83 NA 280zx, im located in the torrance anywhere so if someone has one for a good price within a reasonable distance let me know and how much you want. Thanks everyone

Gabe from t3 is HUGE in the corolla community and is very reputable. Ive personally bought things for my rolla from him, and have many of my friends i know- all with good things to say. Only complaint i could think of is a buddy of mine ordered a steering bushing and it took quite awhile to get it to him because he had run out and was waiting for another bath. Beyond that not a problem. His products are top notch. Hell do coilover conversions too so im convsidering sending him my struts one of these days to get that done

I know this is an old post, but if this is who i think it is- this car was at our shop awhile ago. If by a miracle the OP ever comes back, have you ever had this car down to Dc Performance? I still have pictures of this car somewhere.

Just a fast shot with the datalogging of the boost and afrs for anyone who was interested previously. The e6a may be old, but it does a pretty good job. Got to love the controlled boost from the HKS evc as well. Edit: Bah double post, can a mod merge these posts if he comes across them?

Have to concur with you entirely on that notion. If no one does this within a month or two, im going to do it myself and post some videos. Anyone know for sure if the fenderwells are low pressure areas or not? OR have a pracitcal way to allow them to be? Ive seen mention of it and keep playing with the idea of opening the engine bay to the fenderwells via vents. I really need to get myself one of those gauges that let you measure air pressure haha.

Indeed they do, the type 2 board covers that. If youre interested in one I can get you a good deal on one, PM me and let me know if you ever are.

This thread deserves some more love after being asleep for a few months. I saw some mention of this but never any insight. Test 4 to 5, popping the hood dropped the front lift 100 pounds? Anyone have any insight as to why this is? I know the general idea agreed on is that the windshield is a high pressure area, and popping the hood vents some of that pressure into the engine bay (bad). But is it possible the sides of the hood are releasing enough air pressure to counter-act this and reduce the over all force under the hood of the car?

Dont have an exact date for you, youd need to contact MS directly for a better idea. Their website has simply said "Comming soon" recently. So im hoping not too far off in the future.

Which is why you DIY and add a nistune to your board Check em out- theyre a small step behind a full stand alone (3d maps, adjustable fuel/ignition, etc) and even have real time tuning on them. Very interested in megasquirt as well myself but id comfortably take the nistune over that (and nistune would be cheaper, depending on teh rates around you you can probably get the unit and install it yourself then take it to be tuned for the price of everything its going to cost you to get the megasquirt). If you ARE dead set on going with megasquirt I recommend waiting a short while until the mega squirt 3 comes out, a much ncier unit overall than the 2 imo. Itll have full sequential injection for our motors finally, a nice perk.

Timing maybe? Hope you dont mind me whoring myself out a little, but our tuner here is a licensed nistune dealer- If youre ever looking to upgrade I can get you a damn good deal on a type 1 board which will let you tune your z31 ecu.

Oddly enough I was actually reading that last night just before I made this thread. I greatly appreciate the input, but i think running race[/i] gas for only 18 psi on a rebuilt motor with stock compression is a bit overkill for this situation lol. The motor actually had the wicked blow by before we attempted to tune for 18 psi, so im 100% certain that this is not what took out number 5. The 18 psi run was very conservative and there wasnt a -single- trace of knock the entire tiem (or any time for that matter). My best guess as to what happened? I never filed down the rings as the paperwork with them said not to do so, the tolerances were on the tight side. This combined with the higher temps associated with cylinder 5 probably caused the rings to expand too much and snag taking out the ring land.

None of us could figure out why number 5 broke. Afrs were perfectly flat along the low 12s the entire time. When I go to the shop today ill save an image with the AFRs along the bottom. Theres an advantage to working at a shop with 2 dynopacks and a dyno jet. J the turbo is just a chinese t3/t04e .6 trim. A buddy of mine runs a company selling a slew of parts so i couldnt complain much when i got this brand new for 140 bucks. Ive seen him run these turbos before on his companies drift cars and seen them do well, so hopefully itll be ok for my application.