Sideways

So they just sit on the lifter then?

I feel rather foolish, but for the life of me i cant remember when i tore my engine apart (almost a year ago mind you) if my rocker arms on my hydraulic lifters had those mouse-trap springs. If they did, ive since lost them as the parts for this engine have been moved between places many times now. I saw one post from about 02 mention they for sure didnt have them, buuut I figured id ask specificly and be sure. Better to be on teh safe side I assume. If they DO use mousetrap springs, are the mousetrap springs between the manual and hydraulic lifters different? Thanks again everyone. If anyones got any, pictures would be much appreciated.

Bah, I wish i had. Long story short, when i bought the car it had no windows- Problem is that was ages ago and it was being stored on the street, due to rain and just theft concerns, I purchased a new gasket kit for the car and had some new windows installed. Come time to paint, I was simpy short on money and was unable to pay someone to remove/reinstall them. I might have been able to do it myself, but i didnt wanna risk and find out the hard way "oops". But, Its not a show car (Far far from it) and its not going to be a show car, This was all just a interesting learning experience for me I wanted to do out of curiosity. Most of the body work looks "ok" from a distance (Im actually really proud of how the rear bumper shave turned out), but in the right light you can see where the body filler is (cept for on the rear, haha that came out perfect), all the other imperfections in the paint im not too worried about- Im fairly confident I can wetsand/polish them out (cept for one spot, see my other thread). But in the end, this is a car I know im going to beat on and abuse and enjoy on tracks. I dont want a 2000 dollar paint job im going to freak out about should I ever get a rock chip or parking lot scratch in it. Ah well. Next thread will follow the details of the rebuild on my halteched L28et and what it does at the dyno!

Heres a question, Should I reapply primer under the new coat of color? Or should I just scuff up the area and reapply the base then clear?

Its blue. I painted the whole car myself so the flashing times and what not arent a problem- I just goofed in an unproperly light area

Thats pretty much what I was anticipating, It seems scarier than it really is. Ill be waiting for those pictures- keep me posted please

Hopefully someone can chime in with some experience on this. I painted my car recently (you can find the thread down below) and noticed a a problem. I have the rough idea of how to fix it, but lack the details for how to do it properly. The rear 1/4 panel on the passenger side down by the bottom zebra striped a bit, its nothing huge and can only be seen in direct sunlight (which is why i never noticed until now), but either way Id like to fix it. Obviously I need to respray the area somehow- Im just not entirely sure how. And then the question of blending it back with the rest of the paint comes to mind. I have a good amount of left over paint from primer to clear, so thats not an issue- I just need to know the steps. Can anyone lend some advice?

I dont think I could agree with you any more As for under coating, maybe- Id love to do a good coating of por 15 or something. For now im just going to degrease the snot out of everything down there and paint it black to clean up the look when im down below it. Theres a nice feeling when youre working on a "clean" car.

I wouldnt go as far as to say comparing dyno numbers is pointless unless youre doing it on the same dyno. Depending on what type of dyno youre using and unless the operator is being an idiot to get bigger numbers (Not unheard of but not as common as a lot of people seem to think, at least not in my experiences), the numbers will be, while slightly different, pretty damn similar, within a small % of each other (given same conditions, humidity, ambient temps, altitude, etc). If youre fighting about 10 hp then ya its popintless- But its not like youll dyno a car and have it do 150 whp on one dyno then have it go lay down 200 elsewhere.

I believe i stated this before, but if not then my apologies. A hole was made in the back of the panel and a very long silicone hose was inserted and runs far down then siliconed into place. The bondo was sealed from the front and the back so im not terribl worried about moisture getting to it. A rookie mistake? Ill find out. The hole was initial drilled just out of concern of pressure differences for the dry vegas heat it will contend with. I didnt want to find out the hard way the sealed air in there might expand and crack the bondo out- so a vent tube was inserted. Edit: Thought id share a few, like ive said- its not perfect, but im happy with the results. Some dust sadly got into the clear coat, but nothing i cant wet sand out and fix as i colorsand and polish the body. Im just going to wait a good amount to let the paint properly cure under reccomendation by a couple professionals ive managed to talked to. Heres hoping eh? And this is just a very small detail, but i like the effect it has- Pictures are of opposite sides, one finished, one not, but both looked the same before i started. Amazing what an 89 cent can of walmart paint can do. Will it hold up? Not likely. Do i care? Not in the slightest. Uh oh, my cheapo black paint is getting angry, guess ill have to spend 89 cents and touch it up..

Wouldnt you deduct 15% from 270 FIRST, then reduce it by 20%? The outcome is a bit different than just adding up the %s and reducing it.

Im really shocked to many of you are open and ok with the idea of cut springs!

Edit oops, wrong thread.

Been reading a lot of conflicting information, and am starting to get pretty confused with trying to sort it all out. Ive seen lots of mention for using the maxima brackets for doing the rear disk conversion. And I've seen a lot of mention for using the flat brackets because they seem to be 100x easier to find. Every post seems to agree, you need to machine them- thing is however all these conversions ive seen so far talk about ising the maxima calipers, or the 240sx calipers. Then I read in the stickied brake topic and read this: So am i missing something? Or is the 280zx conversion as simple as that? Or is this post grossly in need of an update? Can I avoid machining the brackets with this conversion? Are there multiple brackets from these years that im unaware of? I just got some 87 brackets in anticipation of being able to do this, and im worried I opened a can of worms for myself. Thanks again everyone

Oh hey was also meaning to ask you- What tired did you run to get youe 11.8x and are you on the stock open dif? r200? Lsd? Would love some more information

Ill be running 16" rims and wont be lowered drasticaly, so maybe Ill be able to get away with it alright? Anyone know how much it costs roughly to shorten the halfshaft? The adjustable control arms were one of the solution ideas I was playing with, and might consider them more depending on the machining price of the halfshaft. Im still waiting for more reviews on the adjustable control arms, they seem to be holding up but at times i question the strength. John i beileve youve stated some issues before, mind refreshing my memory with your input on your thought of the adjustable LCAs from either arizona z car or MMS? Does anyone else make readily available LCAs im unaware of?

Im a bit confused, ive been looking around at the r200 swap and some questions came into my mind that i just cant seem to find an answer for. It seems a concern when putting the r200 in the 240z is the dif is wider on one side causing the axle to be nearly compressed all the way if you use the stock axle, and can cause some binding issues when it does compress all the way along the suspensions travel and who not. Everything Ive read has brought up some concern about different axle lengths over the years to compensate for this, but a LOT of posts have assured us that this is not the case, and no such axles can be found, that they are all the same length, and the variation in axle lenths is a myth. So my real question is, Do the 280zs with their r200s have these issues since the axles are supposedly the same lengths? Do they bind from the factory? Is there some kind of suspension geomtry difference between them and the 240z, or hardware difference in the rear end, that negates this problem? Or is it just a little known/little talked about issue that people havent realized or started dealing much with yet? Im stumped!

Toyota spectra mica blue- Have to confess I looked at many Zs for the choice of color and liked hokes the best so i approached him about the color of his car to use on my own. In case he sees this many thinks hoke! I WOULD have gone black, but do not trust my body-skills to be any where near on par enough to do black properly. Maybe one day if i ever send the body to be done right.

Ive had this car for 2 years, and at times has been a major sore in my side. Finally seeing the body get finished however as completley changed my attitude towards it. But enough talking, onto the good stuff. From To As you can see, this was quite a project to dive into. I decided to do it myself to the best of my ability with a bit of help from a friend. This is pretty much both our first time at attempting anything like this- so a lot of reading was had. Its not perfect, but it was a fun an enjoyable learning experience. Im pleased to say i did this myself. The guy before me thought hed done a decent job on the bondo.. Mm cracked bondo. Sadly this was all over. The previous owner tried to shave the rear as well, unfortunetley they also thought itd be a good idea to just lay in a good 1" of bondo to do so. The remedy? Dig it out and do it right. Remove all the mierda, weld in a panel to reduce the layer of bondo needed, grind the welds, and recover. A tube was inserted into the back that vents into the body behind the panel to act as a vent to release pressure that could build up during the hotter summer days. Needed? Dont know. But i dont want to find out the hard way during summer it was and have the body filler crack all over again. This was done equally on both sides and the rear, so no need to post those. Also decided to remove the antenna, I rarely if ever listen to the radio, like the look- and ive got a sattelite radio anyways if i care to bother. So, Off with it. Sadly I cant find the pictures of the build up process- But it was given the same one-over. A filler panel was welded to the back side the nground down smooth, a layer of body filler added to the top, then sanded smooth (with a pvc pipe as a sanding block no less). No other interesting photos of body work, but minor (and major) dents were filled, all emblems were removed, etc. Once it was done the body was primed, lightly coated, and then wet sanded to as smooth a finish as we could get. Made a HUGE difference in the peel on all following layers and gave me a lot less work and hassle to deal with. This was just done with basic cheapo rattle can primer, but after that the doors were removed, the car was masked, and we started the real painting. Starting with the first layers of an actual automotive primer. This stuff is VERY thick, and hardens beyond anything youd expect (with dated 70s chassis and metal tech this this outer shell increased the chassis rigidity about 50%. This is based on nothing but pure speculation.) From here all minor imperfections were sanded and dealt with (to the best of my ability), and then the color was added. Because of how you need to paint this the base and clears needed to be applied one after the other, so i never had much of a chance to get inbetween shots. But either way 3-4 coats of base and then 3 coats of clear later, this was the result. The gloss is MUCH better in person than in these pictures, light in the room is covered by a piece of plastic (Theres plastic on ALL walls, above to the sides and below), and it adds funny reflections. if you look at some of the pictures though you can easily make out objects far away from the car. Overall, sure its not perfect. But Im still VERY pleased with my results I got. This is my first time painting a car, I think its pretty damn good for two guys with a paint gun in a garage. The car still needs to be buffed out as well once the coats are finished curing completley- Ill have more pictures once thats done and the car is put back together.

Bumping this up again. Z-ya- Any feedback on the Obx? Ill be in the market for an LSD soon and for the price these look overly tempting. Id love o hear some feedback from others- I know some of you guys out here have put some of these in!

Any updates on how those brakes are going for you? I know its a siple "fixit", but have you tried playing with the compounds? Maybe the fronts too agressive, or the rears are too weak. try bumping the fronts down or getting something serious for the rear- Playing with compounds is a great way to balance things out sometimes when you cant seem to tune them in properly (has worked wonders on our vipers)

Awesome awesome news! THanks a bunch!

bump still looking for an answer

Ever dyno your car? What mods do you have done- A bit curious now

A short story?