Sideways

Thanks!

I hope none of you mind me asking this in here. Im putting a haltech onto my l28et in my 71 z, and need the distributor crank trigger wheel out of a z31 turbo (Or so i was told, i dont know if the NA will work/is the same- if so thats fine by me). Im located in vegas and the cars at a friends place in torrance where were working on it- but i need finish it asap. So what im asking is, does anyone have one laying around that i can either borrow or possibly/hopefully buy off them? I purchased one weeks ago from somebody but it still hasnt arrived in the mail, and im afraid i dont have the time to wait around anymore for it to show up. If anyone can help of course itd be much appreciated! Ill be in torrance friday (Tomorrow) night working on this all weekend. Thanks as always

I'd really like to know this math- sorry for the skeptisism but everything ive ever read about ars and come to know about physics has led me to understand that a car will accelerate its hardest at its peak torque- and its acceleration rates match its torque curve exactly. I dont mean to be rude- its just if this information if wrong i would seriously like to know the truth.

Any luck/update with whats happened?

Care to elaborate a bit on this?

Finally got around to doing the conversion, just want to let anyone know who may be looking for the information- Yes the S-Hardline does indeed bolt right into the S12w, and required very little bending at all to make work properly.

Hope you guys dont mind if i chime in with my thoughts- First theres a LOT of things going on, and people need to look at the larger picture as a whole- and not just single details. To elaborate a little theres metal/material fatigue, stress, force, mass, and time- they ALL come into play when were talking about increased mass and why it does what it does to the drivetrain. If you increase the mass, but do not increase the force- The acceleration time lowers. Its now taking longer to accelerate from one rpm to the next- So youre now asking the same gears to take the force of the engine for a longer duration. This is how force, time, and material fatigue come into play on some levels quite easily id imagine. Also with added weight, comes added stress (also a physics term worth looking in to) on all the parts at use. Its not right to say it makes the parts in question stronger when subtracting weight or weaker when adding it, youre just altering how much youre physicaly demding or asking of the materials potential strength. (If you take into consideration the impact-strength of materials, that last bit on the importance of added stress with added weight becomes clearly important in how it effects the risk of breaking youre drivetrain on a clean launch with a heavier car) Small simple example lets compare 2 basic machines, two lever systems. Each uses a 10 foot board, with a 2-inch high fulcrum in the middle, only one is lifting 10 pounds- and one is lifting 100 pounds (both of which are placed on the immediate end of the board). Neither system is phsyicaly stronger then the other, you are however demanding more of one systems arm then the other and run a higher risk of going beyond its yeild strength. Very similar situation when comparing cars with equal engine/drivetrain specifications except the other is heavier- Its not that ones stronger, youre just exerting more stress on the components at work If anyone has any further thoughts of corrections please feel free to do so, this is based merely on my small understanding of the forces at play

Any luck on tracking down thep problem and fixing it? Its a shame when people post problems and forget to update with the remedy after theyve solved it

Thank god im not the only one who was thinking that reading this thread, after doing a lot of digging on others members project build ups i was reading this thread thinking HUH? Wasnt Big-Phil running close to i think 17-18psi on a turbo converted NA motor for a long time before he finally switch to a real f54 with dished pistons? Ive been around this site and seen lots of people with street driven L28ets who are in the high 11s low 12s with very basic mods/bolt ons and a lot of wheel spin. For some reason this threads mentality and content seems very off from what i normally see at hybridz though i cant fully place my finger on why?

Hmm your pictures show s12+8s though? I need to know about the s12-w. Unless that was just a generic picture and thats what you did with your s12ws?

Im really lost on this one- What did you do about your brake lines? Searching Ive found people with the s12+8 vented setups that can just use the stock caliper hardline (the little S bent piece right on the caliper), mount it into the s12+8 caliper, and a regular 240z line will obviously bolt right up to that. Is this method also true for the s12w setups? I could always buy one of the swap-specific ss-braided lines, but ive already got MSA 240z brake lines, and id rather not drop 70 bucks on just the lines if i can avoid it. Anyone have links to good writeups with pictures showing what was done? Or anyone have any good suesstions on what I can do?

Any update on your rubbing issues?

i was planning to run 245/16s on 8s with 0 offset, ill have to look into that

Sorry to bump an old thread but id love some more info on these. In particular the azc knuckles have really caught my eye, seem like a good and cost effective way to quicken up the steering. Maybe anyone whos gotten these recently (if anyone?) could add some light with their opinions?

Janaka could you update with pictures of your panels?

Azusa you say? Whos up for a gmr run?

Youll have to say it again because i dont believe it It depends a lot on what youre asking of each.

In the very least ive never seen that scheme from a factory car

Say hello to the reason of ABS. Youre opening sentence was nearly dead on- Though theres a little more to it that should be pointed out. 99% of the drivers out there do just that, they slam the brake pedal in an emergency situation. Abs is intended as a safety device vs a performance device because joe schmo doesnt naturaly know to squeeze the brakes, and would prefer to stomp on them. However it should also be noted that while older abs systems still had a hard time matching a well-trained foot (short of a very sports oriented vehicle), modern systems are starting to give well trained feet a good run for their money in a wide variety of cars. Its natural to assume as technology goes on so will this.

Pretty much.

Kerbump. Any recent updates with future plans for these?

Bump for this- Could be highly interested but would like some pictures, i didnt see any in that link- but with 11 pages maybe i missed them?

Id suggest going for the rears as well and spend the extra cash. Strong fronts and weak rears = poor performance. Ive never had that particular set up but i assume thats the set up itd give. You want the fronts to lock up before the rears, but only barely- Not locking up well before. Those rear tires are there so make good use of them otherwise braking could suffer big time. Just my 2 cents.

Ah thanks very much. Sometimes it helps to know "what" to search for.

I cant really find a solid answer on this, hope no one minds if i ask here. Ill be diving into the 4x4 vented conversion soon- But what do i need to do about brake lines? Id like to use stainless steel lines of course, but can i use any 240z replacement stainless steel lines, or do i need to use the SS lines offered by modern motorsports? Are they the same lines and I just use some kind of adapter on the brake caliper? Any details would be much appreciated.