74_5.0L_Z

My subframe ties in right where the original sway bay attached. Fortunately, I have an after market rear mount style sway bar (which I Don't use). My experience is that these cars handle better without a rear sway bay. They get out of the corner better if you tune rear roll stiffness with springs.

Before you switch to toe-out, try running zero toe. I run 4.5 degrees caster, -2.5 degrees of camber, and zero toe up front. In the rear, I run -1.5 degrees of camber and zero toe. I also have spherical bearings in place of all the stock bushings. Zero toe will also give you the least rolling resistance. Toe-in or Toe-out cause the tires to wear because they are trying to go in different directions. My car is very stable on the highway with my street tires on the car, and turns very crisply at the autocross with my R tires.

My wife, daughter, and I have evacuated to Tallahassee. We left town with our most valuable possessions: family pictures, our pets, and my Z. We left town thursday at 1:00 PM and arrived in Tallahasee at 11:30 PM. I love to drive my Z, but 10.5 hours of gridlock is pushing it. I have the car stored in a garage up here to keep it out of the weather. After the storm, we'll drive home. Hopefully, we'll still have a home to drive home to. At least my family and the Z are safe.

For an NHRA street class, the limited slip R200 differential that came in the 87-89 300ZX Turbo should be sufficient. ScottyGNZ of this forum used to run a 240Z with a buick grand national motor in it at the drag strip alot. He started out using the R200 rear end, and it worked fine until he got the car into the low 11's. The R200 is a straight bolt-in and your 280Z may already have one (probably an open version though). If you are not going to drive it much on the street, you can weld the spider gears. Check out RossC and Modern-Motorsports LLC. He has lots of great parts for putting the stronger CV axles into the older cars. Several members here are now experimenting with putting the R230 differential into their cars. I do know that these are stronger, easier to find with factory limited slip, and more difficult to install. About the tires, with small diameter coilover rear springs, and the right offset wheels you can fit 9' tires under the stock wheel wells. But I wouldn't let that bother you. A couple of members here put their car into the low 9's with 9" slicks (a small block with nitrous helped a little too). Look for posts by ScottyGNZ and Japtin. They will probably be the most useful for drag racing questions.

The way you guys are doing it sure makes it easier to attach the fenders. But I managed. The back half of the car is Monte Carlo Blue Pearl. The rest of the car: well...... [/img]

Your front end looks good. I was faced with a similar dilemma after I wrecked mine. I considered trying to graft a new front end on the car, but I ended up taking a slightly different path.

For several years I ran coil-overs without sectioning the strut housings. The car was lowered approximately 2", and I had very little shock travel left in the front shocks. I killed two sets of front shocks by bottoming them out. I just recently sectioned my front struts and installed the Koni 8610 adjustable dampers per johnc's write-up in the sticky section of this forum heading. I deviated from johnc's instructions by removing the material from the top half of the tube (removed 2.125 " from just below threaded end). Removing the section from the top makes the weld interior more accessable for clean-up. I wouldn't be afraid to remove the section from the top half as long as the weld is done properly (TIG).

Zero, I received the tubing for BrandenZ's half-cage last week, and have bent his main hoop and made the plates for the top of the struts. This coming week I'll borrow a friend's 240Z and do the final tube fitting before I take it to the welder. I'll probably be working on this cage for another 2 or 3 weeks, then I'd be happy to build others. If all you're interested in is the main hoop, then let me know and we can work up a deal. Dan

Really like the cage. My main hoop attaches to the floor with a similar but smaller box where the seat belts mount. I assume the you car is going to be an automatic, because it looks like the tube going to the front strut tower would interfere with the clutch master cylinder. Also, I agree with johnc about the bar that goes across between the main hoop legs. You could really strengthen that by adding bars that go from the center (top of drive shaft tunnel) to the plates on the rear strut towers. As stated by others, I am not criticizing. I like the fact that every cage that I've seen posted by this group is unique. Please post more pictures as your progress continues.

I am using most of the factory datsun wiring, although I have simplified it where ever I could. I am also using the Ford engine harness and computer. I got rid of the Ford alternator and went to a Powermaster 1- wire alternator (no external regulator). There is very little overlap of the Ford and Datsun wiring. The computer really only needs power, ground, and wiring from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump. I also added a relay in the ignition circuit to protect the Datsun switch as I believe the TFI ignition draws more current than the stock Datsun set-up. From my 260Z service manual, the Black/Blue wire BL goes from the ignition switch to the C-5 connector (green) to middle terminal of the ballast resistor for the ignition coil. This wire is hot only when the key is in the start position. The Black/White BW wire from the ignition switch is powered while the switch is in the on position, and while in the start position. This wire branches several times and powers instruments, and the interlock relay as well as other things. This wire I cut from the connector at the inter-lock relay and redirected to power the TFI ignition (pin 30 of the ford computer). The Black/Yellow (BY) wire goes from the ignition switch to the C-5 connector to the interlock relay and to the emergency switch. I assume that you will delete both the interlock relay and emergency switch. I would take the black /yellow wire or the Black/Blue wire and redirect it to the tang on the starter solenoid. All of the above is from looking at my Datsun 260 factory service manual, and from Charles Probst's Ford EFI book. I would double check my observations before connecting anything. Good Luck, Dan McGrath

I am using the factory mini starter, and yes the positive cable hooks directly to the large lug on the solenoid. I also have the main power leads for the engine and chassi nelectical systems attached to the large lug on the solenoid on the starter. The only wire that goes to the small tang on the solenoid is the start wire from the switch.

I have been running on 2.5 year old Kumho Victoracer V700 tires, and they are hard and worn out. I feel like my driving skills at the autocross have finally progressed to the point where I can use a better tire, so I just ordered a new set of these: Hoosier A3S04 245/45/16 Now maybe I can give those national level AP Z06 vettes a thrashing. Anyone else using these yet? What camber, tire pressure, etc... are you using?

I have accomplished what you desire with the exception of cutting the steering shaft. Cutting the steering shaft, however should not intimidate you. It was one of the easiest parts of the project. My engine is mounted as far back and as far down as I could mount it without without removing the stock hood latch. My harmonic balancer sits ~ 1 inch above the steering rack, the engine is centered from side to side, and is tilted back 2.5 degrees relative to the frame. The stock hood clears the intake (EFI). I use dynomax blockhugger headers and have full dual 2.5" exhaust. The headers just barely cleared the stock T/C brackets. With the 5.0L and T5 mounted as I have it, the car has 53.6 percent of the weight on the back tires (full of fuel with me in the car). I have built the car twice. The first time, the car had all the stock body and the engine was mounted using the ford rubber mounts and plates the sandwiched between the frame and front crossmember. The second build of the car (after a nearly head on collision with a '71 GMC) has the motor mounted using a front plate mid-plate arrangement. In both cases the motor was mounted in the same location. If you or anyone else is interested, I will soon be selling the exhaust system (headers to mufflers), and the modified steering shaft. My next project is going to be the construction of custom 180 degree long tube headers that dump into side pipes.

I found a picture showing the passenger side of the rear half-cage.

Zero, With my rollbar installed, the passenger seat can go all the way back, but not recline in that position. The passenger side of these cars has tons of leg room. I am 6'1" tall and with the seat all the way back on the passenger side, I cannot touch the curved portion of the floor where it meets the firewall.

2126, I believe that the cage you are referring to belongs to 260DET. He did some very nice work, and my only concern with his design is that is has too many bends (scca only allows 4 for a total of 180 +/- 10 degrees), and that his driveshaft tunnel diagonals don't allow either seat to recline. With my design, I can fully recline the driver's seat, but not the passenger seat. I am not speaking badly about his work (It's beautiful, and I like the mounting tabs), but I just chose differently. If I had mine to do again, I would make some improvements. In fact Branden's cage will see some of those improvements.

The door bars are going to be tied into the floor pan and also vertically onto the rocker panel. I plan to make the joints where the bars are removable such that buckling will tend to be outward. The joints will satisfy Figure 3 or Figure 4 on page GCR-156 or Figure 9 of page GCR-169.

Door bar will be removable. I consulted 2004 National Solo rules: For Solo II Paragraph 3.3.2 states that rollbars or cages must satisfy the criteria of Appendix C or section 18 of the GCR. Here is my interpretation without quoting the rules (copyright), For our cars, 1.5 x 0.120 or 1.625 x 0.095 DOM steel. At least 2 braces to control fore and aft motion of the roll bar. I interpreted this to mean 2 minimum. Correct me if I'm wrong. Suggested transverse brace (diagonal) For SoloI, I consulted Appendix J Said essentially the same thing but allowed provisions for Alloy Steel 1.750 x 0.120 for mild steel 1.625 x 0.095 for Alloy steel I am in the process of making this roll bar, and I want it to be as light, as tight fitting, and as functional as possible. Any critique will be graciously accepted. The intended function of this bar is to provide safety and additional chassis support for the SoloI, SoloII and track day competitor. This is a bar not a cage, and does not satisfy the requirements of SCCA club racing or NHRA cars running quicker than 10.99.

If you are talking about my cage, then maybe I can help you out. I am currently making a bolt-in / weld in version of my cage for one of the other members on HybridZ. Depending on how well it goes, I may try to make it available to others. Specs: 1 5/8" x 0.120 wall chromoly tubing (TIG welded) Connections at outboard seatbelt mounts (will allow use of stock belts or race harness) and top of strut tower. Diagonal in main hoop Bars from top of hoop to top of strut tower. Bars from side of hoop to top of strut tower Bar between strut towers. Swing out/removable door bars. The best part is that it will be almost fully assembled (no or little welding required). NHRA and SCCA approved. I'll have Branden's done soon, then I'll have a better idea what to charge. Here is a picture of my cage installed in my car. Branden's cage will be based on mine except it will be removable.

This same thought occurred to me a couple of months ago when I was converting to the CV joint rear axles. The CV joints are more tolerant of misalignment, and can operate at higher angles. The CV joint the off-roaders use is called a double-cardan joint. I believe that this would work well for a driveshaft, but it would also increase the rotating mass of the shaft. What I have never seen is the ball and cage type CV joint (like the 300ZXT axles) used in a driveshaft application. Is there an operating speed limitation that makes them unsuitable for driveshafts? Anyone have any insights on this?

I am in the process of putting the Koni 8610 stuts up front. My ride height is about 6" at the bottom of the rocker panel. Will I have enough droop travel if I section the struts 2" as suggested by johnc? The write-up in this thread is well written. Can we make it sticky, or include its content in the FAQ?

I haven't posted any pictures of my car lately because my space on HybridZ is full. Thrillz (Thomas Scott) was nice enough to host some pictures of my car. As you can see, I still haven't repainted the car since the accident.

Ok guys, Based on the above discussion(and the fact that one of my front cartridges has died), I have decided to get some new struts. I have been looking at Koni 8610-1149 single adjustable struts. Has anyone gotten a Koni 8611 double adjustable to work in a Z? What other struts would you suggest for 250 - 300 lb/in springs?

One other silly suggestion. Verify that the bleeder screws on your new calipers are mounted so that the bleeder is point up (not down). I have heard of people putting the calipers on the wrong side and getting the orientation of the bleeders incorrect. You can bleed them as many times as you like and not get the air out if the bleeder is not on top.

You need to bleed the master cylinder. Until you get all of the air out of the master cylinder you will not get any pedal pressure, and you will not be able to bleed the rest of the system. Get a bleeding kit from an autoparts store that comes with the plastic cup and some clear tubing. Fill the reservoirs. Attach the clear plastic tube to the rear bleeder on the side of the master cylinder, and put the open end into the rear reservoir. SLOWLY, stroke the piston of the master cylinder through its entire range (its usually better to do this on the bench where you can verify full stroke). Repeat until no air bubbles appear in the tube. Close the rear bleeder and repeat the procedure for the front. After the master cylinder is fully bled, bleed the res of the system starting at farthest wheel and working towards the closest. Have fun