yo2001
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Everything posted by yo2001
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BIG BIG PROBLEM!!!!!! please help me..
yo2001 replied to a topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
I put the front and rear springs on wrong side before (like front on rear and so on) and did something similar to that. -
Or a headgasket problem.
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yeah, installing HKS is a breeze after figuring out the tach signal. I don't think there is a digital signal coming from MSD box. I thought it was 0v-12v analog but who knows. I've seen one work on Supraa and an AFM setup but that doesn't mean anything. I guess try it and see.
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It works on Z31 ECU But I think the only difference in AFM and MAF is the signal goes 5v-0v rather than 0v-5v. So it should work. I did have to usetach signal converter from HKS to make the thing work right under boost
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Having tunabitly is always good IMO. I still have my AFPR. It has come handy on a dyno.
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There is not definative answer to how many PSI you can run on a certain setup. Just too many variables. Just dyno the car, and see the answer for yourself. TonyD told me once, "until you dyno with WB, you are just blindly guessing."
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My setup with Z31 ECU went lean at 14-15 psi spike (hitting 13:1) with stock fuel pressure. I got the A/F under control (in 11.8:1 to 12.2:1) with 44psi static pressure and 12 psi of boost. (spiking 14 psi ) But I am moving alot more air with my turbo than a stock T3 though. (I think) Hey Sleeper, Can't you run more boost in higher altitude than a sea level since there are less air, more to be compressed
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me second a dyno time with WB. It's alot cheaper than blowing up a motor
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5 lug rims would be a better choice than 4 x 100 lugs. I do want 5 lug wheels.
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I hope I didn't miss what you wrote. Anyway what about the accelarator pump diaphram? May be it's sucking air. I don't under estimate Q-jet. I got a friend with a 455 poncho putting down 400WHP with a Q-jet.
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4 x 100 with 40mm offset, that's just Honda FWD rims. I'm going to run plain FWD adapters.
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So does a turbo car like big heavy wheels? it'll put more load to the engine.. (sor of like heavy flywheel)
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The air must be be nice and cold in Canada. j/k. Proly the Honda was running FMU and pig rich. In that case, IC isn't going to help. but being able to run 12.5-13:1 due to lower intake temp, it should make more power than 10:1 rich setup without IC.
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If the heat kills the turbo motor, the IC will save the motor. It's well worth spending some money on.
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I have to say timing can give alot more power than couple extra pound of boost. Mine is around 22-24 under boost. (I think, it's pretty hard to check that) I gained 20ft/lb/10-12WHP adding couple degrees of timing on the dyno.
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That's pretty sick there. I would think you break the halfshafts before the driveshaft
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I don't know about that, I've seem turbo ITR putting down 400+WHP on just .48 A/R with stage III wheel combined with 60-1/T04E
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I ran 25.6 inch tires with 3.90. (Just too lazy to swap it back to 3.54) I think due to the gearing, I run better in 1/8mi than 1/4 mi. 8.60 at 86 mph and 13.3 at 106, so I'm only acceralating 20mph in 660' after 86 mph.
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I'm thinking about Rota Slipstream 16x 7. What you guys think?
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Or get a olds big block
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I know, but it does give you more HP for 1/4 mi situation. I wouldn't do it either. I like having 6 quarts.
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3 bolt flange is Ford T3 housing I think
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You can always run your car a quart low too for less windage.
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Your car must be pretty noisey SSQV suppose to help the richness and leak at idle. what does your car run in 1/4 mile?
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26 deg is about max under boost,