yo2001

Man, I must have sent you the lucky charm piston(s) Congrat on your time. I'm getting jeolous

probably pinging from oil going back into the engine which reduces the octane of gas

Good luck you guys.

It's all L-jetronic technically. Anyway, I was running N/A ECU before but it wasn't like I wasn't making the power. 208WHP with N/A ECU, then 222WHP with untuned Z31 ECU. After tuning, I got 253RHP at 12psi. A/F was right around 11.8-12.0 ratio. I think it was well worth it for me.

MAF runs better in the midrange because it comes in lean into boost rather than rich going into boost like older AFM setup. My torque was 30ft/lb higher at 3500rpm with MAF setup. More torque in the middle, more HP. I guess you could get same kind of power I'm making now with zxt ecu but I'm sure it's safer to do it in Z31 setup. Stock Z31 ECU lucks timing if you go with stock timing because it pulls alot of timing under boost but you an overcome that by turning the dizzy. couple degree on timing gave me 20ft/lb+ with no added boost. There is more benefit than just HP with Z31 setup, you have OBD I for self diagnose, an aftermarket support, S-AFR, and better MPG.

HKS S-AFR suppose to work on Z31 ECU. I got one but I've not got around using it.

full throttle upshift OD in a 700R4 isn't a good idea. Stock SS runs around 105-107 in 1/4 mi

Thanks guys. I'm prolly little lean at 14psi. My car was tuned at 12psi with 11.8:1 A/F ratio or so. But I was on 110 leaded mix so I didn't worry much.

yo2001@bellsouth.net I won't be able to translate that until tomorrow though. time for me to go sleep

I can do that for you if you can scan it post it on here or something

A cam will effect the A/F ratio even on a MAF ECU. At least what I've seen. Specially if you are reaching 5V max before the redline. I've seen loading up on fuel after a cam swap into a JWT450 setup at idle too, I think that's got something to do with low VE on bigger cam. From my recently trap 106.6mph (carb weight 2800lb), my car made 260RHP x 15% drivetrain loss = 299HP. I did have to turn the fuel pressure up to 44psi static though. 11.8-12:1 A/R on a dyno

I've seen .120" off a P90 head on a flattop engine with big Crower cam. It was an monster

Yeah, the tach signal is analog signal (0-12V) rather than 0-5V digital signal. I had to use rpm dinal converter from HKS to make HKS S-AFR work properly.

I would start measuring the compressor housing size. I doubt .85 A/R fit without a spacer of some sort. lol

You could prolly use two nice size T04B's

It's real quiet on my car. Just small deep rumble

My buddy with 1G Supra made it work on AFM stock ECU somehow. We tuned out 40rwhp with it and timing.

With a stock turbo, my car was tire burning machine in 1st and into second

Here is the timeslip. One on the left. Have to ignore the opponent

13.3@106.6 with 2.1 60ft The weather really helped the HP output, I went, 102, 103, 105, and 106 mph as the day went by. (temp dropped about to 70 deg) All done on 110 leaded/93 octane mix with 13.5-14psi. I might be pushing the limit on the stock injectors.

I know, it should be a single yellow wire coming out of 8 pin connector. it needs to be hooked up to starter trigger wire on the ignition switch. It triggers cold start enrichment circuit for 30 sec or so for easy start. if you hook it to some other constant 12V, it'll never goes out of cold start circuit.

nope. ROM I think (read only memory)

I'm pretty sure mine was milled. But I've heard die grinder. The vacuum port(s) all depends on what you what. If you want best boost response, you can have no port on the compressor housing and get boost signal from the intake. If you want to be safe with over boosting, you can drill and tap a NPT and put a fitting on it.

Bad balanced turbo howls like crazy from my experience. Also, it can cause bad vibration too I think.