yo2001

Subie need to fix the firing order I do like the sound of Boxer 4. Alot of rumble for a 4. I like shifting L28 about 7200rpm

If you dont' have to shift 5th with 4.11, you might be able to get it to work with tall tires.

Mine is 60-1 T04B with Nissan T3 turbine housing mate with stage III. I didn't have to mod anything except I got me a solid charge pipe.

you got to preheat the cast iron if you are welding mild steel to it. Or weld it with nickle rods on a stick welder

Sounds like a timing issue or you are loading up on fuel or may be both.

But why go to 11 blade P trim rather than resigned more effiecient 10 blade Stage V blade

60-1 flows, pretty efficient for a T04B wheel. I got 60-1/stage III and I'm pretty happy with it as of now. Made 253WHP at 12 psi on 7.8:1 comp 2.6L motor.

I've seen one on a Miata. Made 335WHP

Man, that sucks. Well, at least you can park the car for the winter and get some stuff done.

Zip ties

If it's as same as Fidanza unit, than you can call them and they can help you.

I don't see the problem with mustache bar since it holds the diif in same place. You might have clearance problem with finned cover but cover can be changed. I'm not too sure how far off the CV shafts are but that can be replaced with zxt unit I think. I'll know moew when I do it on my car I guess

253RHP on dyno at 12psi on stock injectors @44psi Yes it can get 250HP. My trap speed caculated 265RHP @ whatever pai I was running at the track. (13-14 psi)

Won't work, an analog tach signal. As soon as AFM reach it's max (around 3500-4000rpm) it'll go sky rocket to lean. May be there is a way to overcome that but 16:1 A/F under boost is not a safe fire to play with. (I dynoed mine like that once) HKS can work on Z31 ECU but I can't say the same for ZXT ECU. The thing that's different about MAF and AFM is MAF goes 0-5V rather than AFM which goes 5V to 0V. There is an adjustment for both on AFC but I've not messed with one. I got a buddy who runs one on a turbo AFM MkII Supra and he got it to work. He had to get a veriable TPS signal.

I think everyone is wandering about how to hack up the harness. I can't tell you because I got mine pre hacked But all you need is Z31 schematic, ZXT schematic, colored pencils, and alot of time stearing at lines. Once the harness is really, only thing you do is pretty much hook the sensors, grounds, and harnesses. Here is what you need to get Z31 ECU run 12V to MAF from an ignition realy 12V for self cleaning grounds to MAF 0-5v signals to ECU from MAF TPS (no mod there) CAS (no mod there) 12V constant from a battery to ignition relay ignition 12V from the ignition switch ignitor Dizzy CAS swap 6 injector signals from ECU to injectors I think that's all I got hooked up.

You ECU hacker I seen one of those maptrace thingy for Hondata. It's nice sepcially if you can date log everything

Nice Dave

If you use an adapter for the rear cross member, you can use 240sx diff. 8) I've seen it. you wouls also need to extend the driveshaft

I'm pretty sure the MAF setup until 88 is 8 bit system. But digital indeed. That's why JWT requires 88-89 ECU I think

The mid 90's Maxima's are VQ30. My dad's was 97 SE with CQ30 with 190HP output. 222HP for the later model

You mean this?

I would FTP it Cruez but I don't have a permission. Someone deleted the file off my FTP

I got some Devcon liquid castable polyerethane (spell?) and casted it into the factory mount.

I had tested magnaflow vs open dp on a turbo Honda and there was 1HP gain with the magnaflow on the car.

Make sure your tach is correct. That was my problem when I installed Z31 with 6000rpm rev limiter. The factory tach was off like 300-500 rpm so whenever the factory tach went 5500rpm, it'll do a nose dive. I now got an autometer tach and shift with a shift light. F&F style