yo2001

I second Sleeper on the 50 trim too. that's what I was going to get. I heard that 50 trim is hard to come by though. Since many ppl just go with 57 or 60 and 50 isn't too common order.

Stage III will spool slower but since the spool is not as violent, I can get more power to the ground instead of having a tire burning machine. Jersey, you are not allow to go any faster than 12.8, you are making us 280 owners look bad. j/k Don't foget to get 360 deg trust bearing, should be standerd with 60-1 but won't hurt to ask your turbo builder.

10 blade Stage III is redesigned blade that's more effiecient. It looks like stage V but .25inch smaller in diameter. You need to mod. the flapper if you are internally gated which you should be since you got a stock T3 (which I think it's 60 trim) I think the flapper can come out of GN unit if I remember right. I think ScottieGNZ knows more about that. BTW, this would make this easier 60-1, see the right side edge and see how much it can flow. compared with 60trim T04E, Also, notice that 60-1 and T04E 60trim is in different scale. (which make it seems that the 60-1 less broad) 60-1 can be in its highest effiecincy for 30lb/min to 40lb/min at 1.70 bar while 60trim is in the highest effiecncy from about 24lb/min to 30lb/min at 1.8 bar. However, the 60trim is more effiecient in higher boost level than 60-1 (I think that's due to the fact that the 60-1 outflows the t04B housing aroud that boost level) I guess that's why ppl prefer the T04E housing to get more effiecency in higher boost level with 60-1

If I had a choice to upgrade mine, I'll go with T04E housing on the cold side (keeping my 60-1 wheel) and a 10 blade stage III (rather than 11blade like I got) on the hot side. But that those itself would cost me about $150 plus labor. T04E is a redesigned newer housing, it's physically bigger than B series with same A/R too. that's why it won't clear the manifold without clocking the turbo downward. Even with B housing, the 60-1 will be more effiecient than other T04B wheels like H-3 and V trim. (3-4% I think) It's also got more broad effieciency range than most of the TO4E wheels. I've not had much complain about 60-1. O, you would need to get the WB flapper hole enlarged with a larger flapper.

All depends on how much boost you are going to run if your IC flows 550cfm with 1 psi pressure drop, I think it'll be a good IC. I think most hybrid will start to outflow the housing around the cfm anyway.

May be I'm not getting this right but N/A dizzy or turbo Dizzy got nothing to do with MSD 6A from my experience. I've used in on both dizzy without worrying about what triggers and what not. 78 dizzy got a good advance curve. I think 16 deg. with initial 20 deg, you can get 32 deg total and with BTM set at 1 deg retard per 1 psi. I had it running 10 psi no prb with N/A ECU and FMU.

That's what I got. Mine is in T04B hosing so I didn't have to use a spacer. I like mine, the boost comes real smooth and I not getting too much lag at all. Here is my turbo spec .60 A/R T04B with 60-1 wheel .63 A/R T3 with T-31 or stage III You can get a T04E housing with 60-1 in it with a special backing plate and it's real nice combo there. BTW, 60-1 will outflow just about any wheel

You prolly not have enough timing. I'm running 20+ BTDC with Z31 ECU.

You don't need any of 79 stuff unless you run one for your tach. You have signal to ECU with 4 pin connector and you hook the ignitor to ECU signal, then ignitor triggers the coil. Make sense?

With 83 ECCS, aren't you using the turbo dizzy? It's just a 4 pin plug. little confused here.

60-1 in 60trim T04E 50 trim would be a good wheel I think. That's what I was going to run before I got my 60-1

The stage V does have one less blade but it is redesigned and it's more effiecient. You can also get Stage III blade in 10 blades like Stage V. I would go with 10 blade Stage III if you can get one. I'm happy with my older style 11blade stage III. The boost comes real smooth on the street. Unlike the stock turbine wheel which is instant tire burner

Mine is set 12psi of boost with 44psi static fuel pressure on 87 turbo ECU. (I'm newer than Sleeper by a year Still both 8bit ECU) I'm running pretty aggresive timing though. 22-23deg initial

My turbo sounds louder when weather is hot

that' why I got me a rev limiter

http://www.celicasupra.com/phpBB2/index.php

Sounds like you got bad trust bearing or seal.

The harness that I'm using got two relays. one EFi and one fuel pump. and one wire that goes to the positive termail on the battery.

I'm going to start sneaking some lead weights into these turbo 240Z just to make the 280Z turbo owners feel better. Nice time and traps guys

You making my dyno # look weak Man, I can't wait to see your car this weekend.

When I was on dyno, I had a problem with rpm converter so it was messing up when the MAF pass 5V reading. I think I got it working now but I don't need it since I've already dynoed without it.

1. to get more accurate signal 2. One would give alittle higer boost level earlier since it's closer to compressor wheel 3. Beats me, I just use some fuel line on mine. Tighter is better IMO 4. I hooked my MBC after the T as you discribed.

Installation is easy. But I haven't used it yet because I couldn't get it to work properly when I was on the dyno. I think it was because I was by passing the rpm converter. If you are going with bigger injectors, I say it's well worth it but as you can see from my dyno, stock ECU can get you pretty good power if tuned.

$230 for the unit and $63 for the rpm signal converter (which I had to pay $15 special order fee)

Now I am