yo2001

I got 1 inch hole with a 1.25 inch puck. I've heard you can go bigger if you go with GN WG puck.

This is mine, with stock cam little on retard side. It seems to peak little after 5500rpm

Yeah, the assembly should be dymanically balanced.

Turn the boost up Nice number. I'm pretty surprice your HP peaking early since you have an aftermarket cam. Is the cam in straight up?

I second brake, my car is gettin gpretty hard to stop from WOT run onthe interstate

I have to qoute you on that one I also like having the surprises when I step on them. I mean, it's kind of hard to hide a V8 from others. You can hide your turbo until you fly by them

All the automatic TPS on the 60mm TB came with veriable volt connector on the side if you are looking for something more than 2 step TPS

If your MAF is bad or disconnected, it'll throw a code. Code 21 I think. Does the car die when you get on the throttle? Maf car can run with a vacuum leak under what I called limp mode. it won't rev 2krpm. I would check the EFI relay, you could have stressed the relay if the relay was cutting on and off whe nyour car wasn't charging.

A cam can alter the dymanic compression. I think ultimately, you should be aiming around 150psi cylinder pressure or so. 8.5:1 would prolly make more power with lower boost level but even with lower compression, you can make close power with more timing.

I think scottyMiz turned his turbo downward to make it fit right.

I'm just messing. I would think the 50 trim would do good in a Zcar. I just hate this sort of problem. (for me and you) I would think the 60-1 would done just as good as 50 trim without much complication. But hey, that's part of the game I guess.

Should have gone with a 60-1 j/k

Lean mixture into boost, with alot of timing.

If I remember correctly, the B wheels like H3 and 60-1 got a bigger major?(the base of the wheel) than E wheels. I think it's 3.0xx inch. If that helps any.

Man, That's like my worst fear on a turbo car. I'm sorry to hear that Jersey but the turbo sounds like a unit combo. I hope you get everything straighten up. I don't know exactly what you got to do to fit E wheel and B housing but I know the backing plate has to be altered so that might have been the problem

I like spinning tires too but it doesn't win a race though

I agree with Cody, I like my bigger turbo. Specially with stage III wheel because the boost comes up so smooth. I don't loose traction like I used to with stock T3. And bigger turbo can keep the heat minimal. (bigger and better design) which is the worst killer on forced induction engine

I do couple clutch slipping from a gead stop to get rid of the shudder. ACT's instruction say that you can break in the disk that way.

I'll sell it to you for $100 shipped. email me at yo2001@bellsouth.net O, and yes it hooka up to 6A

I didn't have problem with no vacuum advance on mine. I got my BTM still here, I'll sell it to cheap.

Pretty much, the cam will determind the powerband. The timing I think will boost the torque some which leads more HP but can go much more than 26 deg under boost on forced induction car. My fuel is tuned 12:1 A/F all the way to 6k rpm so the fuel isn't the issue. Plus, I'm running alot more timing than stock too.

No vaccum advance, it'll blow out the vacuum pod out as soon as you hit about 12psi If you run 20 initial with 16 deg mech. advance, you'll be running 36 total, that's plainty advance I would think

Stock turbo cam will turn 6500rpm easy but still seems to peak HP around 5500rpm. That's what I got from couple of my dynos and dynosheets I've seen

Jersey, you can get turbonetics 's stage III and they are all 10 blades I believe. But they are not known for their fast service if you are working with a time limit. And you should be able to control boost enough with internal WG. I'm running factory Nissan actualtor and I think that's one of my problem. I think eventually, I'm going with 15psi preset GN unit or dual port from turbonetics. Anyway, effeciency is everything on turbo IMO, more efficient, less heat, more HP. 8) Doug, I'm not outflowing the compressor housing yet. But I'm sure if I get to 300whp or so that it will. (I'm onlt on 12psi right now.) 60-1 will outflow the .60 A/R T04B with not much more boost than 12 (I guess in 16-18psi) since it really moves alot of air. (I don't kow exactly when since I'm not measuring the thermal dymanic of the compressor housing ) Plus it was suppose to be used with .70 A/R housing. I guess I can go with T04S housing whenever that happens. I got all mendral 3inch DP, exhaust, 60mm TB (polished) HKS IC. I do have small 2inch IC piping but I know it's good until 300RWHP or so which I'm not going to get since I'm quiting engine mod for now. (it's time for me to upgrade the brakes)

Doug, I got an opposite problem with mine, spike 14psi and settle back down to 12psi to 6000rpm. fl327-You shouldn't have a stage III turbine wheel if you got a T04E. Prolly like P trim or something. (2.5 or so exducer) With what you got on your T04E with P trim, (T61 or something like that) would hit full boost at 3600-3700rpm with no BB. That's what I was told from a guy who had T61 on his car. So you would hit boost hard around 3200 or so I guess with BB. But I don't know if it'll make much power above 5500rpm with a stock cam. My car seems to peak around 5500rpm depite the size of the turbo. I guess it's time for a cam