Xnke

No, Iceman, you are wrong. IF I can legpress 300lbs, and you can legpress 100lbs, and we are going along at the same RPM, in the same gear, yes, we are both doing the same amount of work. Now, make the ground not level. Increase the incline to the point where you can no longer pedal the same RPM in the same gear. I still can. I have three times more incline ability than you would, for the purposes of this example. In the same way, a 350CID V8 will produce more torque at a given RPM than the 168CID L6. Tony, you beat me to the post. Maybe mine will help clear things up.

Seems to me, using that material, even with half-assed heat treatment, the weld is going to be the weak spot, not the splines. How are you addressing that? (seriously interested, since I am studying to be a metallurgical engineer)

Looks like it to me. Best way I can think of is a welder and body tools, then ceramic coating.

The 8 hole cam sprocket isn't anything real special, there are quite a few aftermarket ones that are like that currently. As far as the weight reduction goes, that's great, but will it hold up? (I'm very interested, as I have three of these gears, one of which is brand new, part of the timing set i just got.)

Use a wideband O2 to see if you are ok on mixture, then get springs, retainers, lash pads, and reground rockers to go with that new reground cam. Use a Nissan cam core, and look for something with a 280-290* total duration, or something with 230-240* duration at 0.050" lift. Delta cams, Web Cams, American Cam, just about all of them except Schneider came recommended when I asked. Schneider cams have a bad rep for going flat, but the springs and retainers are ok. Usually, cams in this range push the power band up to around 6600, but keep in mind, stock SU's can start to run out of air at about 5500 too. It all depends on exactly how you are setup to run.

JeffP, the stock headgasket bore IS 88mm...

I would seriously consider drilling the extra coolant holes above#4, #5, and #6, and manifolding them to the thermostat housing, along with water wetter and a 165F thermostat.

Looks like a replacement voltage regulator to me. If you are going with an internally regulated alt, then it's a goner. If not, then you will still need this part.

that's just a regular replacement switch, it's very likely a stock trans.

Tony is correct, the roadsters are 38mm. 2" SU's are too big for a stock L28, but not a modded one.

The cams are stamped on the back of the cam. That's it. The numbers cast into the shaft are NOT cam profile numbers, just forging numbers to keep up with the raw, unground forgings. The A cam with a 4 in the back: that 4 is an A. Just stamped funny.

The notch and dash are not supposed to be dead on perfect, it should be "-V". The chain should be replaced, or the cam sprocket moved to the next hole, when the V and the notch are "V-".

Search for Ishino head gaskets, They are the OEM for nissan, and usually run about 20-25$ each.

1 Fast Z, you are wrong about the V07 block wall thickness. At least partially. I have finally gotten ahold of the ONLY V07 block I have personally seen, and gotten to play with. It's from a LARGE Nissan forklift. I mean freakin' huge. The forklift is designed to lift and carry other forklifts, I am told. I DO NOT have pictures, because the engine is not mine and I didn't have my camera there at the time. I'll try to get pictures, though because with out them, No one believes this. Unfortunately, I can't persuade the shop that has this block to sell it to me. Trust me, I tried as soon as they let me take measurements of it. The LATER versions (Must be 84+, I guess) of the V07 blocks have 3mm thick dry sleeves pressed in the bores. According to the machine shop that has this block, The cylinder bores can be opened up another mm to accept new, oversized, sleeves if needed, but it's almost never done, due to the sleeve allowing for rebuilds. The machinist said it has only happened one time, and the only reason he did it was because the original sleeve split top to bottom, and started to spin in the dry-sleeve bore, marring it. He said that the forklift blocks and automotive blocks are not listed as interchangeable, although he doesn't see why not, externally, the LD28 block is the LD28 block. I don't know this machinist well, I just worked on the paging system in his workshop today and noticed it, and asked him about it on my lunch break. Hopefully I will be able to get back to his shop and get photos of the bores, and more information.

You might as well drop in a cam, while you are in there It's addictive, isn't it! Schneider has a bad rep on cams for the L6, but the springs they make, set #60822, work well. Reasonably priced, too, but really, they are the only springs I can find for the L6 that I haven't had to call for pricing on...

About that: the spindle pins are not particularly hard steel, nor are they even hardened or tempered to start with. Would I personally risk anything less than a grade 8 bolt? No. But the grade 8 is much stronger than that pin, of this, i am certain.

Pull the head, take it to a shop, and get it pressure tested. that's the only way to know for sure that your head is not cracked. There have been other forum members who have had problems with Pierre'Z in the past...do a search to find out who and what.

The answer you will get is this: Cubic Dollars. That's not the answer you want, but for a wet-sleeved engine, it is the answer you'll get. Check out Darton sleeve, or LA sleeve companies. they'll wet-sleeve the block for you, and have a really good reputation.

Ok, so I'm looking to convert the mechanical pump I have now over to an electric pump setup, similar to the '74 260Z setup. I have been looking at this pump: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-P60430/ It's a carter, stock replacement for the chevy LUV truck and it's 1.8L engine. It claims 30GPH at 6PSI, which would seem fine, since guessing a BSFC of .52 and a maximum planned horsepower of 200, fuel required would be roughly 16GPH, according to several fuel pump calculators out there. But it's for a 1.8L engine, and mine is 2.9L. Will this cause a problem, or is it one of those "as long as it flows over 16gph, it'll be ok" situations?

Cut the bellhousing off of an old dead automatic trans, or something. That would let you mount the starter, and provide some level of scatter protection from a flywheel incedent. I would not feel good about an exposed flywheel... On top of that, it would give you a good spot to place a third mounting point for the engine.

Ok, when looking for a Junkyard LSD, turning the wheels on the car in the air is one way to figure it out. NON LSD will spin in opposite directions. LSD will spin in the same direction. If you hold one wheel of a NON LSD differential still, WITH THE DRIVESHAFT DISCONNECTED, the other wheel will still turn. If the driveshaft is connected still, it's gonna be pretty hard to turn just one wheel, since you are also turning the driveshaft and anything connected to it. IF you hold one wheel of an LSD still, with the driveshaft unhooked, the other wheel will be really hard to turn. It MAY still turn, depending on the type of LSD.

The VIN tags likely got pulled, but the actual dataplates usually are not. Usually they are stickers on the hood or firewall. Again, keep in mind that not every car has an LSD in it, they are pretty rare.

Go look under the hood. It's printed on the nameplate what diff and what year.

Same here, brackets premade would be great.

Ok, I guess I'll just keep bleeding it until it doesn't get any better, or it gets to where I like it. If I bleed it out, then wait a few hours, then bleed it again, it gets a little better each time. I think Zmanco is running the same brake setup I am, I'll talk to him about the pedal feel.