Xnke

I am in need of a stock throttle shaft for a roundtop SU. Worn is fine, bent or stripped threads are not fine. The rod will be turned down to 8mm to fit my carbs, so normal wear is expected. PM me with a price.

Use the inertial energy of the hub by slamming it, studs first, against a piece of hard wood, the wood is softer than the aluminum, but should still allow you to knock the studs out.

replace the pump, get new bearings and rings, check the head out real good. You should be good, if the head is ok.

NISMO sells SI valves. They are just NISMO prices. the ones I bought were the 46mm valves, and I cut them down to 44.5mm, because they were out of stock of the 44mm valves at the time. The steel these valves are made from is TOUGH stuff. Carbide tooling ONLY!

You need to find the search key. And you need to start reading the other threads. It's obvious you have the time, since you've been posting about an hour or so apart. the KA trans swap is not hard. It can hold the power, DEPENDING ON HOW YOU DRIVE. the Z32 trans swap WILL hold the power, and there are multiple threads here on the subject, including a complete installation thread. BOTH transmission swaps will cost you money, and depending on how good you are with a milling machine or large lathe, will cost you a lot of money. Be ready to spend 300$ on the KA swap, and 500$ on the Z32 swap.

Measure carefully, and take a look at the shifter. The 200SX transmissions are FS5W71C transmissions, starting in 1984. The shifter is much different, and starting in 1986.5, the syncros got upgraded. Dimensionally, the trans will fit, but measure the overall length carefully. for the FS5W71C trans, you'll need to move the transmission mount back 2", but you MAY or MAY NOT have to have a shorter driveshaft. SOME (1987 NON-Turbo with CA20e motors) are usable with a stock length driveshaft.

Different configurations for different applications. Longer rod, less sideload on piston, longer cylinder wall life. Good for Longevity, if all else is equal. Especially if you have thin cylinder walls. (L31ET drivers understand about the thin walls after they bow cylinders at stupid-crazy horsepower.) Shorter rod, less leverage on rod, stronger overall assembly. Higher sideloads on cylinder walls, but if you're rebuilding every 100Kmiles, then who cares? It's a tradeoff, and if if costs the same or less to use longer rods, then do it. If it's more expensive, or harder to do, then don't worry about it.

Sounds like a great deal. When I get home from work, i'll elaborate on how to measure the lift and duration of the cam, so you can get more information. (unless you measured it already? looks that way from the post, or someone sent you the info)

Also keep in mind that the car being weighed is being compared to a factory weight. Different tires, different CD player, dirt in carpet, stuff in the trunk, junk on the floor or in the back seat, amount of gas in the tank, all that stuff makes a difference and is not included in the factory weight. Yes, the amount of dirt in the carpet makes a BIG difference. For example, my work truck: carpet dry, before washing: 105LBS. Carpet dry, after washing: 89LBS. The truck did not appear dirty to the eye, but the wash water said otherwise...as did the weight.

Sounds like a stock cam and springs. Measure the base circle of the cam, then the cam lift. Using a degree wheel and dial indicator, you could measure the duration as well, if you are patient. BTW, the stock springs are "dual springs" as there is an inner and an outer. If the cam lift and duration match a B stamp cam, chances are you got taken. I don't know how much experience you have with the L motor, which is why I'm pessimistic. But actually getting out the calipers and measuring is the only way to know for sure.

Piston specs? Will a KA piston work? (he says with a snicker....)

Yeah, SI valves are a real deal. Stainless, swirl polished, they actually supply NISMO. I payed $10.50 per intake valve, in 2mm oversize, and had them cut down to .5mm oversize to fit my head. Stock replacement is $8.50 per intake valve, last time I checked, which was a few months ago. I wonder if they will cut a set of valves 2mm longer for the same kind of mod on a N42 head....hmmmm

I would be worried about compressing the softer metal, but 7075 or 2024 should work out ok. Tony, to compensate for the length difference, He'll need to use the 0.080" longer N42 valves. Not only that, but He'll have to make sure that the valvesprings can handle the longer valves, too. I *MAY* have the drawing you need, I'll have to look.

I have one new in the box, evaporator core and expansion valve. PM me for a price.

Do the body first, find out just how much rust there is before you start dumping money into it...

I did the same thing Miles, it works beautifully. Unfortunately, my E-brake cables are too short! I'm about one inch too short, after crossing the cables over the diff. If this happens to you too, it's gotta be fixed or the outside pad will drag on the disk.

Except its is a known fact that the C box is two inches longer. Proven by the other swaps done, in fact. Weird.

Ok, Riddle Me this: I have ONE stock F4W71B transmission, with original 22.5" driveshaft, Original R180, original mounting points. All fits, driveshaft has 3/4" front-back motion to enable getting it in and out. I have ONE 240SX FS5W71C transmission, with modified mounting points (mount moves 2" back), 20.5" driveshaft, Original R180, BUT the shaft fits with over 2" of front-back play. NOT RIGHT. So, on a hunch, I pulled the original 22.5" long shaft out of the parts box, knocked the collar off the front, and bolted it in place. Perfect fit, 3/4" front-back motion to get it in place and bolted up. But the transmission still measures two full inches longer than the old one. The differential has not changed position. WHAT DID I DO TO MY CAR?!!! oh man...I swapped the roof and the floors...did I stretch my car two inches?!?!

OOOOOH MAN. You all need to be extremely careful putting that stuff on the web. ATF will have your balls and your gun, if they catch you shortening a rifle. I make personal use guns *occasionally*, and these are the ATF rules: Once a rifle, always a rifle. Even if you cut the barrel off, change to a pistol stock, blah blah blah. If your rifle has less than a 16" barrel, it's considered a short-barreled-rifle, and is subject to National Firearm Act rules. It WILL get you into BIG trouble. Or you can fill out a LOT of paperwork, pay a 200$ tax, and some more paperwork, and own an SBR. On top of that, a firearm is considered the barrel-able receiver. The stock is mostly irrelevant, once the receiver is complete enough to have a barrel put on it, it's a gun. If the barrel is greater than 16", even if it is never fired with that barrel, or you take it off and put a shorter barrel on it, it is a RIFLE. However, if you have a virgin receiver, never barreled, or registered, EVER, then you can make a pistol out of it, since it has never been a firearm. Again, not to piss in anyone's cheerios, but be careful with this stuff, especially putting it on the web. It's really easy to get into big trouble with shortening rifles into pistols, or even shortening a stock too far.

Ok, so i installed a FS5W71C transmission into my car the other day, and used a '71 driveshaft, in my '72 model car. I am worried about the length of the spline engagement, I think i may need a longer driveshaft. The original driveshaft for my car measures 22.5" long from the center of the U-joint to center of the U-joint. Since the C box is 2" longer, I figured I would need a 20.5" long driveshaft. Since the '71 cars have the diff mounted 2" forward, the '71 shaft should be the correct length, when used in a '72 car. It does fit into the transmission, once the driveshaft dust collar is removed, and it slides back to bolt to the differential flange with no problems, the splines in the transmission remain engaged and the diff pilot fits fine. BUT, I'm worried about the length of the splines that are engaged-when installing the shaft, I can slide it 2.125" into the transmission! to be clear, that means that with the driveshaft all the way forward into the back of the transmission, there is two and one-eighth inches between the driveshaft rear flange, and the differential flange. WOW, that looks like a lot. Is this too much? is it normal? How can I find out, if the answer is "maybe?"?

Be glad you missed him, man. If you have hit him, or had killed him once he exited your home, you would be in jail, at least if you leave in KY or TN. here, the castle laws are such that if you shoot him, and he makes it out of your house, you are responsible for what happens to him. If you shoot him, and he's in your house when the cops show up, it's fine, the castle laws protect you. Makes B&E a less common thing around where I live, since people know that the homeowners with guns are shooting to kill. Really, the people who do get broken into usually make a big deal in public about how they don't own guns beforehand, and it's kids who break in.

Who says you can't hammer a mig weld? There is no reason at all not to. If the weld is a full penetration, clean weld, then there is absolutely no reason to treat it any different than a weld made by any other process.

Cool, I figured the design process went something like that. Neat product John, I hope someday to have the STi diff and these stubs installed. Maybe when I'm rich, I'll be able to, but dangit, I'm gonna get em!

Head shims for the L-series, at least the ones I have, go under the cam towers, not even on the same side of the head as the headgasket. Maybe it's a different type of shim then I'm used to?

Robert, You really need to take some of this advice to heart, rather than blowing it off. First, get your IAT hooked up and working, you may be surprised at what is going on. More data is better, when it comes to tuning. You already know that. Get a laser thermometer and measure spark plug temps, that'll tell you if you have one getting hot. just point it at the base of the plug. Check exhaust temps too. These buggers can be fun too, point it at someones skin and piss them off, some people get noticeably warmer, it's fun! If it was me, I'd drill the head on ANY turbo L for the extra coolant ports at 4, 5, and 6.