plexus

i wouldnt worrie too much on the discontinued parts they will be back ppl are bringing these cars into drifting, so parts will be back and alot more after market avaiblity. not every one can get a 240sx but z cars are plenty ful. prices on the other hand, well thats allways gonna be an issue.

i must agree with you 100 percent, cause min sure sucks donkey balls. my 20/20 is i should have pushed down on the brakes before i left in 1st.. .

today as i left in my 280zx to go to work in a chipper and happy mood, i got in the ole girl put her in nuetral and begain my warm up. i fumbled around in the car puting things in there place for a nice drive (under statement 405fwy in L.A. is hell i tell you HELL) from the valley to century city (about and 1hr drive in traffic). so i pushed in the clutch put her in 1st an drove off. coming ever so nearer to the light at the corner of my block, the green light turned to a red. so i gently pushed the brake.....what to my dissmay, i find i have NO BRAKES and i am approching a car waiting for the light to change. think quick (doing about 20mph), i start pumping that pedal like no tomorrow....NOTHING STRAIGHT TO THE FLOOR ....DAMN-IT. so i pop the clutch that will fix it, quick swearve to not rear end the car infront of me then BLAMO... look at what we have here, a suv(tahoe) has just made a right turn and now i am heading right into it. Yes i did hit it, head / side on, i moved just enough to impact the driver side fender. now i have come face to face with an air bubble in my brake system and got it out. if only i didnt damage my baby. so now i need a new fender (that sucks the guy i bought it from had just did body work and painted it). well it could have been worst as i tell myself when i look at her, the other car could have had some damage and raised my insurance or i could have met MR. AIR BUBBLE on the fwy. sorry for the rant i just need to vent!!! p.s. please forgive any spelling errors, its been a rough day

yea, i dont think they can be that bad alot of sports/super cars/formula 1 race cars use that type of set up. i mainly think it comes down to the manufacturer, if you buy tijuana back alley knock offs then dont be upset if they break when puting them to the test. as far as the cross drilled not being good then why would a company like brembo make them. the gas escapes between the rotors (front of and back of) middle section. see link http://www.brembo.com/ENG/HighPerformance-Brakes/ slotted rotors are also very good rotors as well but they to crack/warp/fade it really depends on your set up and what your budget is for your breaking system. as for me i'm going with cross drilled and slotted rotors squeezed by 4 or 6 piston calipers up front (rotor size is still pending on my wheel selection). brembo and others also make the slotted rotors. and if you want optimum stop power try ceramics (rotors and pads with 6 piston calipers on front and 4 on back with as big of a front rotor you can fit in your wheel ) and brembo, stoptech and others make them to, here is a link to what car brembo has these on. be aware ceramics are high in price http://www.brembo.com/US/Cars/Corvette2/

thats sweet man. i still havnt seen a better instrument cluster than yours so kudos to you. i hope you dont mind me borrowing the idea just gonna use different gauges.

imo i say ditch the digital stock cluster and throw in a analog system. i have heard to many complaints regarding them. a quick search will help in geting all the pieces required and its a pretty quick mod to due, a saturday afternoon prodject.

^^my thoughts as well

I'm with you there bro, however i'm not so sure if i really want it when it comes out. when your right foots as hefty (13) as mine how long before you break it, then parts to replace it will be a pain after dumping that kind of green for the set up to begin with. as i tell my friends who ask why i drive so fast "hell these 13's are heavy i just rest my foot on the pedal till it stops going down....."

heard the cats smell like that when there toast the battary can smell like that if its over charged by the alt learned that frieing a battery on a tarus ( i miss that car sometimes). the ticking is it low or high(coming from crank or head area)?

i think blackdragon sell the bumper cover you desire. also im glad mine has this bumper i think they are awsome compared to the other. i plan on pulling mine in a little.

i like phils280zxt's lights however in my opinion they would look more appealing with a darker shade of blue or darker color period, plus that bumper has that crome band in it, if that was blk or the bumper was of the color matched type i think it would really come together. but that just my 2 cents. i would like to se the better pics though to form and evan better conclusion on them. good luck, i plan on tinting mine. my 280zx is all black with color matched f and b bumpers

i thought the ones on msa were pretty decent they are cross drilled and slotted

i would love to put in a mega sound system but for me im just gonna throw in about 4 6x9's, amp and a dvd tv cd radio that fits in a 1dim slot. i dont really want all the added weight from a box (custom or not), but i'm glad to this being discussed and all the ideas floating around for such setups.

it seems you answered your own question. put some turbo injectors/right kind for your set up.

for the floor pans i beleave its as easy as cuting out the old and welding in the new. for the supports your gonna need to do some bracing before removing and making sure the brace is square with a level then cut and replace. im sure you can find something more detailed if you use the search function i know for sure its been talked about for ALL i say ALL z cars have or had rusted out floor sheet metal unless they have been stored in a garaged and not seen much wet weather.

so far i like the dfi gauges i am going to shell out for those i think but i all so like the look of the magans (still doing research on them) "linchpin360" displayed. i want something like that for my dash 3 pod cluster(defi or megan etc). for the instrument cluster i like what "80lt1" did on his however thats where i come to a small halt on guages. other than autometer i cant seem to find a decent looking speedometer unit, does anyone know who does speedos as well, most stop at the tach. i want to keep a factor look with a all matching instrument cluster (80lt1 style). the 3 pod dash not so much, thats gonna be my wow factor for the dash board.

problem fixed, the day i made this thread i had spewed some water out the radiator from over heating. my guess is i had some air in there somewhere and wasnt getting proper cooling. since then the car has not overheated once.

i bought hose but it ended up bieng too big (diameter). when the guy and i at the local pepboys sized up the hose it was the same size, however he nor i took into fact how degraded the old piece of hose was (streched out). i recently took it back and exchanged it for the correct hose size. since summer is right around the corner, i really dont need the use of the heater so its on the bottom of the list for now. what i think is the problem though is the T stat being stuck. i'm gonna rip that out this weekend since i live in socal i dont really need it.

well the nozzel that come off the head to the heater hose broke. i did a temp fix on it (bought a new nozzle and replaced it). however ater replacing said nozzle i just blocked it off instead of reattaching hose (when it broke the hose split as well ....old hose). after i fixed it i noticed that the car ran fine on the fwy to work and home but as soon as i get off the fwy the temp slowly winds up, luckly it peaks right before i shut her down to park (temp needle rises far enough for me to be...OMG shes gonna blow face). my question is this should i also block the other hose as well from the pump until im ready to reattach the heater hoses to the heater core? side note* the part of the hose that the nozzle was connected to before i cut the bad piece off is also plugged. there is no open (heater) hoses, just the one lower heater hose that is still good, which is still connected as orig with no modifications. i read somthing regarding this with recurculating hot coolant back in by bypassing the rad as result you get a overheating, sweatbead rolling down the face, this cant be happen to me in this neighborhood calamity. i never had a problem with heat until the nozzle failed, EVER. <<-- displaced anger o its a 280zx 82 l28 <--- just for referece p.s did i metion that blasted nozzle fought a good fight but thee ole cresent wrench and unfreeze juice gave up a better one ....YES!

i like the defi gauges, what other manufactures are there for gauges other than defi and autometer?

^^^arnt those tails there only for straight lines, my Z also does corners.

have you checked the brake pedal light switch for wear or sticking?

well in my quest to find c/p for my zx, i have stumbled across a site that i saw here regarding suspension componets. Gabriel from technotoytunning.com informed me that they do have them C/P's for the zx as well as RCA's. however they are not listed and are the same as the 510. dont know if this was mentioned but for those that dont know and are interested in some C/P RCA's weld on coilovers and soon TC's check them out. I will be purchasing them soon (c/p) and will let you guys know more about there product (unless the z grimlin rears its head....i hate that guy).

i read that for the 280zx's they all had/have the r200. autos had a different gear ratio. the r180s where for the s30's and when the chasis changed to the zx so did the rearend to the r200. however i dont remember where i read this though, it was a while ago when i was woundering what rear end i had in my 280zx. i could be wrong or misinformed.

yo sir are truly the ♥♥♥♥, thank youvery much for this. it drove me insane all weekend. (now i can stop chain smoking these ciggarettes....yes)