MoNkEyT88

Try just uploading to imageshack.us and posting the URL here.

I would run the exhaust through the fenders..

Pretty cool, when you look at it without a flash it is just black, you cant see any of the display.

The problem isn't the cost of the material, but the cost of the tooling. A carbon fiber door will cost you more in material than fiberglass, and you will have to make your own molds which will take time. Other than that, most can be done in your own garage. You'd better be really good with sheet metal if you want to form your own aluminum doors. Or to have a part stamped out will not be beneficial because of the high cost of tooling and the low number of production. Fiberglass doors would be so much lighter than stock that it's totally worth it.

If I were you, I would practice by just fusing first, and getting use to moving the torch at the correct height. Work on that, then after you've got it down, start adding fill rod.

ZOMG those are huge.. awesome.

See, I am a Miller guy. Also, Miller is only about 20 miles from where I live. Supporting the local economy.

Lets see some pics so we can see whats happening.

Wow, that's amazing. My 6 litre Z only has a roll bar in it. I can't wait to see what it's like driving one with a full cage.

Realistically you need to be able to install the engine in the chassis, or you just end up with a chassis where the tops of the suspension mounts do not go up. Back to the topic. Essentially there are a bunch of Z's driven on the track without a full cage. The uni-body is sufficient enough that the Z doesn't twist so much that the suspension geometry is lost. When you add a full cage, the body will still twist around the cage. Tying in the strut towers to the cage should stop a lot of the twist. Adding gussets from the body to the cage is a good idea for how much more rigid the chassis will be. Then the uni-body can be lightened to reduce weight. (Doors weigh a lot, and can be gutted) Here's the battle S30Z shown with tons of cage to body gussets. It says that it's a 23 point cage. I also don't see the need for such large body to cage gussets, I think smaller ones in key places will do the same thing.

You're at a higher altitude. What is your reasoning for not wanting to run more boost? Why not just go for low compression and run higher boost? You must be at like 5,000 feet.

Blinker - Night - Fan - Hazard Fuel - Ignition Wide band gauge. Battery - Start

1st.. Welding stainless isn't poisonous, but it does give off hexavalent chromium, which is a carcinogen. Essentially, you'll want to wear a respirator under your helmet. Hexavalent chromium is what gives stainless steel it's corrosion resistance. It is given off during welding, grinding, and some dipping processes. When welding chromium will rise in the smoke cloud, and will drop back down in the area. Just make sure not to keep food in the area, and wash your hands after working with it. Also, it can cause skin irritation and will be on the cloths you weld in. Essentially, everything in this world will kill you, just use your noggin, and maybe a respirator when welding stainless, galvanized and zinc plated parts. Also, clean metal is the best thing for welding. Dirt, paint oxidation and anything else cause weld contamination.

First impression is a thumbs up..

Obsessive compulsive = TIG perfection.

What did the professor use that supported 1.21 giggawatts. That should work. I'll have to go back to 1985.

Okay, so that's still not the problem. I've yet to see a plug rated more than 50 amps.

I will not be using the switch covers.. I just had them laying around. I don't believe switch covers would serve a purpose. And that's extra weight. the On-Off-On switch will be for my blinkers. The rest are just On-Off's which will run to a relay panel. The switch panel will be able to be disconnected easily by use of molex connectors.

I'm running power for my Syncrowave 200. I'm going with a 60 amp breaker, and 6awg 2 wire/w ground wire. I'm running the outlet max of 10 feet from the service panel. Miller says it will draw 54 amps, but says to run an 80 amp normal operating breaker. From what I've found other places, a 60 amp breaker will be fine, with 6-2 wire. My only concern is that the only plugs there seem to be are 50AMP. Now, wouldn't I want the plug to be at least rated for 60 amp? Or because the machine will not draw more than 50 amps, because of the duty cycle that it will be okay?

I got some switches, time to start laying up the switch panel..

I've got some ideas from it. http://picasaweb.google.com/belosic/ProjectE30PhotoBuildDiary#

I agree with you guys, that it would never hurt to have the Syncrowave 250, for the extra amperage. I just can't justify spending ~%50 more for a hobby machine.

Yes, after the pic I buffed off the white paint, so it doesn't look so horrible to me now. I'm gona pop the dents out later today.