MoNkEyT88

STS. I'm not a big fan of the rear mounted turbos. As I am a believer of thermodynamics.

ugh..

Nice, I'm looking to do something similar.

Whats more impressive, is that it's not built by VW. What's impressive about a car built by a company that has a ton of man power and money to put into it, and will never be produced? I like seeing stuff like this, it gives me motivation.

Damn, that was fast. Great job!

This has a lot of fab work in the thread. Composite work, and some nice chassis fab work. Over 60 pages long right now... http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3277830

350hp. Unfortunately it cant even put that power to the ground.

It's all about using the tool that suits the job the best. I started out using a TIG with a momentary switch. Not good for aluminum, but great if you're doing the same weld over and over on stainless or mild. (Production) A foot pedal is great when you're at a bench, great for aluminum where you need to control the puddle because some times when you're backing off amperage on a thumb wheel you may boggle the torch around. Thumb wheels are great when you're in a lot of crazy positions. Try dragging a helmet, foot pedal, fill rod, flashlight and the torch through a spot where your body barely fits through.

1360x768 seems to work nice. Up to 1920x1080 res.

This is easier.

Also, to avoid some of the back aches with spinning the car, make your mounts so that they are offset to equal out the balance point from the top of the car to the bottom. I'd imagine somewhere around 4-6" up from the bumper mounts to be around the center of balance. Although I didn't have any doors or glass in.

carbon steel and stainless steel aren't very different. Really the main difference is the chromium, which creates a resistive coating on the surface of the steel. So welding the two together isn't uncommon. I do it every day.

Mine was on one for a year, I haven't noticed any tweaking. Although I haven't put anything back together yet..

To weld mild steel to stainless steel you could use a 309L fill rod. If you're TIGing, use pure argon, if you're MIGing, you could use 98/2 Argon/C02.

Great! I wish mine looked like that.

Yeah, I planned on also making the whole door from CF, and haven't got that far. I think I'll end up just using the skin, and cutting apart the rest of the door and bond it to the skin. Here's the plug, before I ran out of gel coat.

Great! The 260Z doors are definitely heavy. I'm guessing around 60lbs each without anything else. Great place to save weight if you have a cage!

Maybe by 30 min he means that the LS3 was just swapped in.

I've seen more of the underside of this thing than the top.

Geez, I'm not sure I've ever seen those. I've only seen the exterior rocker panel, dog leg, lower door skins, and lower fender. You might be better off making your own from sheet metal, and having holes dimpled like the stock one and weld it in.

CNC Staging brake.

Any video from that run?

It's also a good idea to tie into the rocker. You'll see some guys cut the pipe in half, and then weld along where it's contacting the rocker. You can also add a pad on the rocker for more distribution.

Is using a backing plate an option? That would take a lot of the sugaring out of the equation on the back side, because that should probably be back purged if you're doing a butt weld with a gap like that. Keep yourself moving, and do the same thing every time. It's like a ritual, if you do the same thing.. puddle, fill rod, move, puddle fill rod move.. it will look the same. You can see bluing from the heat on the exhaust I welded are pretty even, consistent travel speed is key.