MoNkEyT88

me too, cuz I bought em.

The air flowing through the diffuser exits through the rear of the car. Figure 2 depicts a close-up of a diffuser exit, from the perspective below and behind a Ferrari. Although wings and diffusers work similarly, they are based under different concepts. A diffuser serves to eject air out from the underside of the car. This pulling action increases the velocity of the air below the car, so that the more slowly moving air above the car will push the car into the ground. Diffusers, when working properly, can be extraordinarily important to the aerodynamics of a car. When F1 cars travel around the track, the diffusers produce 40 % of the total downforce. When not working properly, these devices can befuddle even the most experienced drivers." Fig-2 Here are the beginnings of my diffuser project. I really don't have anything to work with now, as I have no car to fit it to, but I started making flat pieces of carbon fiber. The fins will be carbon, with a 90* bend at the top to rivet to the diffuser panel. This is a bit wet cuz i wiped it down. You can see here a simple diffuser. Some say simple is better.

I saw a really clean 280ZX today, with some nice wide tires, really nice wheels, and Corbeau seats.. It was blue also.. damn it.. Now I really want to start kicking ass my project. It is really hard lately though due to the long hours I work. I am very tired, and the last thing I want to do is work more, but I needed some inspiration like this to kick start me. Can't do any work today, as I have to get up at 3:00AM every day, but hey, soon.. Still have to get lots of parts disassembled and blasted. My Jegster roll cage shipped yesterday. wee..

Sorry haven't posted in a while guys.. Finished up the 250Z! You can see in this pic, the carbon fiber front splitter, and rear carbon diffuser. 18" Enkei RPF-1's. Wilwood 4 piston calipers all around.ok ok. This is a pic from Forza 2, but this is what I'd like the car to look like.

Floor pan getting ready to be welded in ..

The motor will rock.

My suggestion. Because its off the wall and next to impossible.. 4.3l V6 TWIN TURBO, bolted up to a T-56 XMSN. They do make a turbo kit for the 4.3l, but this one has been custom made, which is what you will do.

Hey, I see your face lives in Oshkosh too.. cool.. anyways. The place is called Emerich MFG INC. (920) 921-9630. They are East of Fon du Lac. They still haven't finished all the stuff I took them. And They use sand. And WTF, they should hire someone with 20/20 vision to do the blasting.

Well, I'm going to be making carbon fiber interior panels when we get that far. I did this piece as a test to see if the peel ply on both sides would turn out how I thought it would. Here are some other things I've made. The panel is for a friends gauge panel. The other things are for my R1, it's a clutch actuator protector. those were vacuum infused. Heres a carbon fiber tank cover I have, I didn't make this one.

Yes, I figured, if something was going to happen when I cut them out, then I'd be in a pickle. But, it's just so much fun.

I figured since I had some sheet metal laying around.. Hey, I can use this to make a carbon fiber panel. Metal will resist sticking to the resin. No need for a release agent, such as a wax, but it couldn't hurt. First I cutout the materials needed, and tape off a section of the metal to clean it. I cut the materials roughly 15x16". Carbon fiber is expensive, use masking tape on the areas to be cut, so that they don't fray. I am using 2 layers of carbon fiber, and 1 layer of heavy fiberglass for a filler. I am going to be using 2 layers of peel ply, the carbon fiber will take the finish of the peel ply, which is a matte finish. If you use glass, it will be smooth like glass. The peel ply finish will also allow a great bonding surface later on, as I am going to make a diffuser. You will also need a layer of breather material, this allows the extra resin to be soaked up, and allows a path for the air to be sucked out. I am not doing a vacuum infusion, so I lay the materials on one layer at a time and wet them out. After all the layers are wet, I lay the bagging material over and stick it down. I tried to use electrical tape with no avail as the tape for bagging is expensive. I had to use it anyway, too many leaks. A good leak free bag is what you need to have, as you will need to pull ~30in.hg. Leave the vacuum on until the resin is finished hardening. This could be all day.. so I made some pizzas from scratch.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/1557884889/ref=sib_dp_pt/104-6028245-5616741#reader-link I've never read this book, I imagine that it will cover some of the aspects of the reasons why an intake manifold is designed a certain way. I don't know if you're planning boosting the motor or not, there is a big difference in design for N/A motors and forced induction motors.

I got mine done for 225$.. they missed a lot of small places, but the bulk of it got blasted. This allowed me to start doing body work, and after it is finished it will be blasted again anyway, and I will make sure those spots are hit for sure. Also, that is just for the body on a trunnion, the fenders/hood/doors/misc parts are yet to be blasted.

Anywayz.. Didn't really flex at all, I left the cross member piece in for now. Have a bit more to cut out and clean up. Here is the material that will be welded in place. If anyone needs some 2.5" 14ga square tubing I have extra. Yay..

ha ha.. those rails weren't doing anything anyway, after someone took it rock crawling.

what do you think?

I'm going to be replacing my floor pans, and the rails beneath the floor with new steel. I'm also going to be doing the front frame rails, but I will do that while its on the ground. I was wondering if I do half at a time, if the body will still be stiff enough to support itself on the trunnion.

I have the steel needed for the frame rails and the sheet metal for the floor pans. I'm using 2.5" 14 gauge square tubing for the frame rails, and 3x1" 16 gauge rectangular tubing for under the floor pans, and to connect the front frame to the rear sub frame. This will also all be tied together with the JEGSTER 12 point roll cage. MY QUESTION IS.. Do you guys think if I do one floor and the rail under the floor pan at one time WHILE IT IS ON THE TRUNNION that the body will not flex too much? It is mounted to the bumper shocks BTW.

Created a graph on production. Hopefully there will be more blue in the future.

Sikaflex® -221 üBœÃ„LœÃ„↕╕

Need to go to the store to get the lead filler. Also on the list of things to do. -Sheet metal - fix the rest of body work, replace floor pans. Build fuel cell location. -2.5" square tubing for frame rails. -3x1" tubing to run from frame rails to rear sub frame. - Purchase and install Jegster 10 point roll cage. - Recently purchased brake line (o boy) - Recently purchased TABCO body panels for the bad spots. Waiting. I also want to modify the stock suspension for coil overs. I know there are some threads about this, I just need to find the one. I want to cut down the tubes, and weld on a perch. Any DIY thread on this? I'll try to do a step by step for the roll cage.

Well it looks to be in really good condition, a great place to start. I am replacing half the car with new metal!! wow..

The car has down syndrome.