MoNkEyT88

I'm glad my car has ITB's stock, they sure look cool.

Didn't know anyone else had that cub. I think I built it when I was 14, and I put the elevators on backwards.. lol

Wow, that is just insane. I thought the GTO would put up a fight.

Just to add some useful information for anyone. If you want a nice durable gold finish on a part, I'd recommend Titanium Nitride (TiN coating). It's usually used on machine tools to add life between sharpening. It can be used on parts with tight tolerances also, because it is only a few microns thick.

Great work.

Here we go. I like it A LOT, I'm glad I went through with it. It's been a long day though. 275's on back, 245's up front. It looks MEAN! The 260Z project is jealous. Oh, and you don't get on the throttle if the roads are damp. wooooooooo.

:excited: Yep, trading in my STI for an 02 M3. I have an 04' STI with 39,250mi on it, trading for an 02' M3 with 76,000mi on it.. Yeah, I'm getting a good deal on the trade and in the long run the M3 is cheaper anyway. I usually end up getting a new car (to me)every year anyway, I tend to get bored with what I have. I checked the CARFAX report, and the M3 has been in an accident, where as my STI has never been. I called the guy selling it, and he says that the front fender was replaced and then repainted, and it's almost impossible to tell. I'm pretty picky about EVERYTHING, so if it passes my inspection tomorrow then I will buy it. So basically, 02' M3, Titanium silver, 6-speed man, 76k mi, for $21,500. STI trade in for $19,000 = $2500 out of pocket. Hi. Bye.

I like it.. Are you working on it for a customer?

Well John, I hope my parts turn out as good as yours. What kind of epoxy are you using that cures in an autoclave or oven? Is it a two part epoxy, or heat activated catalyst?

I'm going to be making the whole door.. Waiting for materials to be shipped for now. I don't know if I'd sell any, because the door I started with wasn't perfect, so in the end the door skin wouldn't be perfect. For what I'm planning to make, (a lot of parts) out of CF, it would take me longer than I really want to work on each part for that long. Anyway. The door has the key hole shaved, and all the holes for trim. The inside will be flat, maybe a latch to get out. I will use a lexan window with a vent, and maybe a little area that slides open.

I bought a cup gun to spray gel coat with, although I haven't used it yet. It allows you to use disposable paper cups, so all you have to clean is the nozzle and cover. (Gel coat once hardened is impossible to clean from a any kind of paint gun.) http://stores.infinityfrp.com/-strse-117/Gel-Coat-Spray-gun/Detail.bok

Me too.. Recently I've come to appreciate all the hard work that goes into producing the molds, and CF parts.. I don't even have any CF parts completed for the datsun, and I've got countless hours into it already. Not to mention expenses. Composite prices are up, and the consumables used for the molds, and products aren't cheap. You can look at a part and assume it wouldn't cost much, but when you add up the gel coat, fiberglass, epoxy and man hours used to make just the mold, then add the vacuum pump, epoxy, carbon fiber, clear gel coat, or clear coat, peel ply, breather material and flow material that is used to create the final part, it's kind of overwhelming. So... respect for those guys who've done it on their own, or those of you doing it for a living.

Apply wax, PVA release and let dry. Apply gel coat.. then run out of gel coat, and have to purchase more. Turns out you'll need about 2 qt's per door.

Door mold progress.

I use a Miller Maxstar 140. I'd like a Miller Syncrowave 200, but that's a lot of money. Money now is tight, I just put an offer on a house.

if you wanted to have the same finish as the stock dash, you could just make a mold of the exact dash without doing any sanding/filling etc.. I'm going to be using a clear gel coat for UV resistance. It's not the lightest way to make a part, but it should slow UV break down. Because the finish of the dash will transfer to the mold, and then to any part you make with the mold, it will also have the same finish. Although because of the glossy nature of the finish (clear gel coat, or a clear coat) it would just look like orange peel. This is why most people would want a smooth carbon fiber part. (And who wants an orange peel finish?) A glossy smooth finish will give depth to the carbon fiber part. A sandblasted or sanded finish on the mold would give the carbon fiber part a matte finish in the end. Another way to add more of a texture would be to not do a clear coat, or use a clear gel coat on the finished carbon part. But it might allow for some imperfections to show in the resin that occurred in the infusion process. Here is a shroud for my STI that was just resin, no clear or gel coat.

Looking pretty straight. Waiting for paint to dry.

This is what I'm trying to achieve with the dash. Currently I'm working on a door.. the dash will need a bit more work for the plug before I can make the mold.

very nice.. My TIG welder at home is kinda holding me back.

wow, now I have to get a Vh45...

04' STi 06' R1 when its nice.

OMG.. so not excited that I could have had over 5 GTR's for what I paid for my STI, even if they are only R32's..

Wow, I don't think I could leave after seeing all those vettes sitting there.

I'm going to be (Attempting)making the whole door from CF. The skin will be a 1 part mold, and the inside will be a separate 2 piece mold. Then the two halves will be bonded together.