TomoHawk

There are 2 possibilities ( as Spock would say) for error when you use your fuel gauge to determine the colume in your tank: 1. Your fuel gauge could be wrong, either at the sender end or the gauge end. Typical of the old equipment. 2. Your fuel tank is not a perfect "cube." You can't depend on your fuel gauge to show the volume unless the tank has square sides that are all the same height and width, and the cross-section must also be the same all the way down from the top! Just look at a picture of the tank in your assembly manual. It's shaped like an inverted oil pan. That means the level goes down faster at the top and slower at the bottom. I can only get 75 miles on the first 1/2 tank and 200 on the second half?? the only sure way to use the fuel gauge to figure the volume of fuel in the tank is to fill it up when the gauge hits each mark. Better yet. find out how much to fill at every 1/10th tank. Every 1/100th tank. Still, the gauge isn't consistant... Please don't make any more claims about fuel mileage using your fuel gauge as a volume gauge, unless you measured it scientifically. Of course, it still is a good idea to know how far you can go when it gets down to 1/4, so you can make it to the next gas station too sense. -Spock out

I would like some tips on storing a fiberglass body kit. I have the McBurnie-design GTO kit and I need to store it for a while untill I get some more funds coillected to do the whole job in one shot. Probably in the fall. smaller pieces are in the crawlspace ( cool, dry) and larger pieces...? thx

That's why the speed limit on the Az highweay was 125 mph- 300 miles of nothing, so going faster takes less time & less sleepy.

Try going 60 or 65 or so and you'll get even better! Remember drag increases as the square of the speed. Hopefuly your car has a 0.0 Coefficient of drag... ? At 40 mph, you'd probably get 50 mpg, unless you fell asleep.

I have the rubber bushings! the original ones- all nice and dried-out-hard by now, no? That's what bothers me too. I'll be putting in some new rubber ones with the new control arm bushings. Urethane is OK for those right? Also, I thought the T/C rods only break ifyour car is lowered? Mine is still at the stock height, but I wanna lower someday. Need money for bodywork & springs. thx.

Would you trust something that's as old as the part that just broke? Usually, you replace a broken part with one that's new or better than the old one. Especially this part.

Bumpsteer comes from incorrect suspension geometry. Improper steering geomtery just makes the steering feel tight, maybe even limits how much.

What do you mean by 3 speeds? The old system has 1. intermittent 2. normal speed 3. fast speed Is that what you get with the different speeds, or do you get 1. normal 2. fast 3. super-fast ? thx

I'm using the Mustang rack on my L28 engine. I wonder what impact the Mustang p.s. pump will have on the engine, but I know it can't be more than the a/c pump. I was told, however , that the 95 Mustang rack isn't too particular about the pressure, so maybe I can swap in a pump from a 4 cyl. engine (higher RPM engine)? thx BTW, I chose the Mustang rack because it's more available now.

Well I will find out what it is that makes the original wiper motor get the different speed eventually. With the number of pins I saw on the connector, it probably uses several wires like the Hondu on. The wiring diagram will tell you how, ust need to figure which pins have power (I assume) on which setting. How do you seal the connections? I saw the grommet, and I assume that goes through a bulkhead, but I didn't notice a cover for the connector area, thx

New caps had to be made for the Subaru rack. Not hard to do.

The worm drive Honda motor should work the Z arm linkage well. It all looks good and I just gotta godo it myself, and figure out how it works for myself, like how do you get the different speeds? Does your motor park on the right place? thx

ZBarn is really MSA, you know...

I don't see what's so hard about making a T/C rod, it's basically just a hockey stick with threads on one end and two holes on the other. And a flange or two. Maybe we have a machinist here who could suggest a bulk price on some. thx

Gee, I hope that if somebody does find a replacement for the old T/C rodsthat they will chime in here and tell us all. I think they will. Even the purist guys will need the info, since T/C rods will be getting as scarce as hens boobs (can I say hens boobs )? I get a little nervous every time I hit a bump on the highway and the front end 'crashes'. Is there a link for th G-machine T/C bushings? thx

I forgot to reconnect my TPS once and I couldn't start the engine! So that would be proof that the TPS richens the mix- or something else you need to start the engine. My 280Z will do that too (stumble). When I press a little from a stop, I get a little accel, then a stumble, the the power will come on... I figure tthat's when the switch breaks and you get lean mixture power. But then I don't feel any extra power at WOT, and I figure that because it's already at 3000 RPM. So my final conclusion would be to get back in there to adjust it a little better. Should help out with the mixture being too rich also. thx

That is a scary thought. If the urethane bushings are bad, how bad woulf me "heat-hardened, dried-out" bushings be? I mean all thew bushings on my car are like really hard from being old & car comes fr4om Fla. I better cchange out my T/C bushings...

:hail: You did good dude. The Z world will remember & worship you when you are gone. I can't think of anything else that could top this.... xcept maybe a way to de-corrode the entire wiring system while you drive... hmmmmm.....

NizmoEd-- Did you gert yours from the JY or new? thx

Did you put the new motor in a bag? what's protecting it from water, like the old one? BTW, check the voltage at the connector to see how they give you 2 speeds... thx

Nice stickers, but not the ones I need

You need to savethe article. not the page. right-click the article link, save target as... It's 12 Megs

I think that the intermittant relay is just a fancy form of a turn signal flasher & relay in one box. Since there is only 1 intermiitamt "speed" I started thinking that it uses a bi-metallic thingy to time the wipers, which would explain why it's such a long delay on the old units. And, since there is lots of corrosion in the connectors/wires, it adds to the resistance slowing the delay down even more. Otherwise, I think the delay would be only a second or two.

The special thing about the Z motor is the switches inside to park the arms. Make sure you a motor with the right shaft too.