TomoHawk

The problem I have is that the car was painted a non-OEM color. I will take the battery door off to have the color matched.

I'd like to replace all thopse plastic clips the hold on the door panels and such with some decorative screws/washers. Is there a way to do it, like some kind of threaded rivit to plug the hole? Thx.

Can the paint store just match the color of the paint? I need some to touch up some chips. What's the smallest amount you could get?

Are those solid metal? I got one off ebay that was chrome on plastic. Not sure the plastic unit would last long. Too bad those aren't green dots.

I got my solar charger off Ebay for about $25. I think I will connect it to the fuse panel or into the radio harness with a connector so it can be disconnected when not in use.

Alsil says he doesn't have any more pictures than the ones on his web site.

I need some more pictures of the power steering conversion using the Mustang power steering rack. I have a few, but need more to show the fabricator guy: box tubing with the holes in it rack mounted to box tubing box tube welded to crossmember shortened tie rod end picture/drawing of column adapter plate steering shaft used (Borgeson or other) how the steering shaft looks hooked up to steering column thx a LOT.

Great job, even by my standards. Was it relatively easy, in retrospect? It looks like you used the stock steering shaft? I would like to see a writeup, too, because I'm in the process of getting price quotes from local custom shops to do the Mustang rack conversion. Keep us informed on how you mounted the pump. I have the L28 engine still in there, so it might be helpful.

Is it OK to bypass the dimmer control (rheostat?) I had a technician look at the dashboard lighting and he told me you couldn't bypass the dimmer control because it had a few (4?) resistors in it & was too complicated. I was thinking I could just jumper the 2 wires that connect to the control and just put 12V (more like 10V with the old, corroded wires) to the instrument lights, so I can see them better at night. Or is there another way to make the instrument lights brighter? Thx.

Going to try and locate a source for the front & dash wiring harnesses and I would like to know if there is a standard place to find the labels with the part numbers on them: Dashboard harness engine bay/front end Thx.

Surry guy, I can't use a manual shift transmission. I will have to look for another option.

Gives me an idea. Maybe you could just make a new isolator from rubber with a shorter height. Anybody got a good picture of one?

On my 280Z, the front is about an inch higher than the back, so is there anything I can do to bring the front down, so when I put the lowering springs in, it's even? If I absolutely have to, I might raise the back even first. thx.

I called MSA and they told me that the sticker is just some CYA until the lines are approved. I was (assured) they should be safe to use until then.

Thanks. I didn't think it was that 'easy.' I could probably do it myself- when I get back from vacation.

It was just a small piece with the logo on it.

OK, but have you ever taken one off? Do you have to get the door off or what?

Dude, we're talking about the side windows, not the windshield wiper blades.

Mine got hard, or are they really made of metal? Anybody ever do theirs? what was the basic procedure? Did you have to get the door off, or just the inner panel? Thx.

What would you use to polish the rubber? My rubber is a little (rough) even after trimming the extra off. Or do you think it should be a little rough looking foor as old as it is?

OK. I will put them on, and keep an eye out for some approved ones- for peace of mind. This set aught to last for a summer or two.

Mine have the Earl's trademark shrinky on them. Can I assume that makes them better than just an ordinary SS brake line?

My reverse gear on the original Z transmission just quit working. I have to back up the car the HARD way. Is that bad (really bad) news, or will the scheduled tranny rebuild (Tuesday) fix it? I would like to know if it's going to ruin my budget for another 2-3 months. On the other hand, if there is a Trans with a lower high gear or an overdrive that will simply replace the original JATCO tranny, then a simple replacement would be better. Thx.

Just got some braided SS lines from MSA. there's an obvious label stuck on each line that says, "for offroad use only. Do not use on public roads or highways." What's up with that? Why bother selling them for a Z (street car- not offroad)? Is it too much braking for street? Thx.

According to the pictures I've seen, the bearings come in a cartridge, so there aren't any races to take out.