TomoHawk

It shouldn't be too hard to cover the dash. Only the flatter part should have to be covered because this is what causes the most glare/reflection. The curvy part nearest you where the instruments are only creates a small amount of glare, which should be tolerable.

Do you still need the ignition key/switch?

I had to look up the wiring colors to figure out which relay was which. In my car, the A/C and inhibitor relays were switched. Otherwise, disconnecting the A/C relay had no effect on the engine, or starting the engine. One less thing to go wrong... What is the inhibitor reay for?

What meant was a picture that I can print out poster-style, so you can make out the lines without a sub-micron microscope.

I found out you can't start a 280Z with the factory A/C without the A/C relay hooked up & operational. I tried unplugging it and the starter won't click in. Anybody figure out which A/C relay wires to connect to get the engine to start? I could probably figure it out, but my copy of the wiring diagram isn't so good. BTW, where can I get a nice blown up copy of the (1978 280Z) wiring diagram? the one from 240Z.org is nice, but the wrong model. Thx.

I got a relay (Bosch?) from a friend who thinks it should just plug right in. I f I can get the relay box under the ood open, I think I will remove a couple relays like: A/C Inhibitor (what does this do- emmissions?) I would like to sinplify things a little, so I can replace the engine and front end wiring. All that cruddy wire makes me a little nervous sometimes, when I turn on high-current things like turn signals, brakes, headlights. The switch guts seem OK, but only 10 volts at the brakes lights or headlights doesn't soiund right, huh?

Thanks for the idea. I prefer to keep the hood closed for security, so the charger would connect inside someplace. Most solars go for $60+ so the tip is appreciated.

I was looking for Horn relay in the VB catalog, and saw all the other electronic modules & stuff you can get. Should I buy up spares of certain things for when my original ('78 280Z) parts finally quit working? Can you subsitute newer parts (like relays & ignition module) for the originals? I looked at the horn relay scematic and noticed that they got the whole horns load running through the relay coil! I think mine is welded closed- no wonder. Fuel Injection unit Electronic ignition unit Other relays air flow unit

I just weighed mine, and it was 2670 lbs. overall. Will the Miata or the RX-7 rack work with that, or is the front wheel weight what matters more? I have the Mustang rack, but if the Miata or RX-7 rack will fit on without modifying the crossmember, I would prefer ther latter. Did you remove the engine to get the crossmember out? Thx.

I just weighed mine, and it was 2670 lbs. No A/C, minimized console, eclipse seats Full-size spare on a ZX rim, $5 gas

I just got an air cleaner assembly (1997 Ford Escort 2.0) from the JY and it looks like it would work from the size of the exit hole, except that the hose bends the wrong way and the whole thing is too long to fit vertically next to the headlamp. I don't like mounting it across the radiator, because I assume the air is hotter there; I would prefer to pick up some high-pressure air from down low. So, can anybody suggest a source of 4 inch rubber hose? I think I will cut the assembly down in length and glue it back together with other mods, so it will fit down low behind the grille.

That's what I was thinking, but using parts from an intake system off a mass-produced car, like a Honda, Ford. I just need to know which models havethe 4-inch diameter.

OK.... Since you know so much about ECUs, tell us which one to use. And yes, you would need to hide it, or it will show, and there aren't a lot of places under the cramp Z car dash to put something like a control box or control unit. The same thing with an eye scanner or fingerprint scanner. The only one (fingerprint scanner) I've seen was bigger than a pack of cigarrettes. That's why the switches are a good idea; they blend in with what's there and you'd only need a wire or two to make it work.

Ok, zrl, The point was to make it simple, in the style of the 25-to-30 year-old car that it is, yet be functional. Did they have eye scanners 30 years ago? Fingerprint scanners? I don't think so. Even if you could hide a scanner someplace, it would show when you operated the car. I'm in favor of a transponder key chip or ring thing. It can be hidden in the column shroud, and the most difference you would see is the fatter key. Anybody know of a transponder key system?

The AP store only had Ford & GM sockets, so I did 2 things: 1. Got some new guts to replace the old contacts in the socket. It all went together fine, except I cut the ground wire short when I removed the socket and it wasn't easy getting the crimp apart for the new ground wire. The contacts went in easy. I just gotta figure out which wire is which filament. 2. Got a universal push-in type socket with GROUND WIRE for the last choice. It just pushes in, so it'll definitely work , but ditto again on the wires. Either way. I'll have both grake lights again. Next time I go to the JY, I'll take the template on the socket hole I made to check out the Nissans, etc.

Yeah, it's a 78 280Z with Fuel injection. It looked like a 4-inch tube from the air cleaner. How about something like a Honda or Ford car? It's much easier to get replacement filters. Thx.

He said in the description ythat it wouldn't fit a 260 or 280, so I wouldn't take a chance at wasting the money. I looked at the HELP! brand stuff at the local Auto parts, and it looks like one might be able to fit the lamp assy., maybe with some mods. Otherwise I'll just silicone it in there. Thx any way.

I think I'm getting a little loss of power and I suspect it's from the dinky air cleaner. I would like to get something with better flow or at least something with the same cross-section as the air-flow valve. Maybe like one of those cold-air pipes? I think it might be better to just hack something out of a car at the JY, but which one? Thx.

The left side socket for the brake lamp is kaput, or just doesn't work right. I would like to replace it, so is there an equivalent from a later model car? If I can't get one that locks in like the original, I would just glue it on until I do the GTO conversion. Which will probably be in the fall or next spring, so I need both brake lights working. thx.

Just had an idea.... What if I hacked the wiring harness at the JY out of another vehicle, like a small truck or car with the lights in approximately the same places? The truck might be easier to hack, and I could remove the sections as needed, so the wires could be relatively new. It might improve brightness of the headlights?

Didn't find anything at Harbor Freight. JC Whitney had one: http://jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=5458&BQ=jcw2 BTW, You can't just plug it in the cigarette lighter plug. the Ign. switch has to be turned on (not good to leave your keys in the ign. & car turned on) You have to wire it into an active circuit on the fuse panel.

I think I will get a solar battery charger to keep the battery up all summer. What's a decent unit that's not really expensive? I don't think I will be needing a high charge rate. Where is a good place to connect it? I thought maybe soldering the wires onto a blown fuse then plug into the fuse box.

Hmmmmm.... Class "D" (combustible metals)... I wondered a few times if real "Mag" wheels (Mag as in Magnesium) ever caught fire. From high school chemistry class we learned that Magnesium burns REALLY hot ( and bright) so if you lost a tire and your (Magnesium) rims scraped the cement enough to catch fire, you'd really be in trouble- the rear wheel(s) could easily burn through the fuel tank and you'd be histoir.

From my experience as a chemist, it looks like their system is a kind of (water)-based thing with surfactants/soap instead of foam to remove air, emulsify conbustible liquids and rubbers. The water- part is Probably why it's not recommemded for (higher- voltage) situations.

I think I would agree with the foam degradation theory, as foam and other materials, like the particle board produced around the same time, had chemicals and solvents in them that would come out slowly over time. The heat in a car with lotsa glass only helps the chemicals/smell come out. But you never know. I usually say, "It's always something SIMPLE, no matter what YOU think."