TomoHawk

Can you explain what a "Tokiko" is? I thought it was a brand of spring. Is that the best way to lower your car 2 inches? I think 2 inches would be fine for me. Thx.

Sorry dude, but that link doesn't get you to any where. Typo? I was waiting to see if you were going to change it. Thx any way.

Does your Z car have illuminated hazard & R. defog switches? I had the console out and noticed my hazard switch did, but it didn't light (blown bulb) I further noticed my R. defog switch had just the square hole where the lamp was. the only thing is I can't tell where the wires are(or were) to provide power for the defog switch lamp. No help from the wiring diagram on this. I will probably have to invent something. Mean time, can somewbody provide a type # for the switch illumination lbulbs? Maybe Radio shack has them & the bulb holders. Thx. One less thing to go.

I looked behind the center console of my '78 280Z and the wiring back there was all twisted & tangled. So I took the console out and tried to straighten things, in case I need to hunt down some wires for fog lamps, etc. So I removed a couple extensions for the ashtray light & shifter light ( lamp was real dim any way) and put some wire ties on the rest. then, when I tried out all the electrical stuff, the right turn signal didn't work. The one black connector was kinda funny, so you had to play with it to get the hazard lights to flash, but I think I'll have some (expert) fix the turn signals, ( don't have time to fool with it any more.) I'll just leave it alone from then on- until I mount the fog lamps on the GTO nose. There was one black connector (6 pins) that I apparwently didn't go to any thing. I hope.

Well, if you got the hp to drive a lower gear.... I think if you drive a certain speed most of the time, like 25-35 mph, then 2nd gear with overdrive would be a good comination.

I saw an interchange guide on CD being sold somewhere on the Net. If anybody knows, post it, I need some parts. Thx.

Got this email from a guy on eBay: "I can sell the 280Z intake pipe to you and off ebay. The price is $50 included shipping. I just have 2 kind of blue rubbers." YOu get a chrome pipe with a support bracket. I don't know what kind of filter he uses. Claims an 8-10 hp increase. Jesus Mar <carpartsstation@hotmail.com> Picture is here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ed=1063902529&item=2432307050

You can't just add a lock-up torque converter, can you?

when the car is warming up in the driveway, some black sootty stuff spits out of the muffler onto the driveway. Same for awarm engine. I don't think it's oil, because the level in the engine stays up and the exhaust isn't smokey. And the tip is covered with soot inside. Could the engine be running too ruch or something? I thought the computer would control things. Thx.

Here's a green dot mirror to check out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2431575673 If you bid on it, do it for me. I'll buy it iff you..

Do you have some infor on the 3N71B trans that the older Z cars had? My trans guy told me he had a 4N71B (with overdrive?) he could put in with some mods, but I would hold off with that until later., because I just got the 3N71B rebuilt.

Using the Memberlist function, at the top, I located Pete's site at: http://home.comcast.net/~pparaska/index.html

Lately the messages I'm viewing are too wide for the browser window- I have to scroll horizontally to read one line. Is there a setting you can change to make things narrower? there's no horizontal scroll button on my mouse! Using Netscape 7. Same with IE 6 Thx.

OK, but is that chrome on a plastic body?

If you had a PTO on the engine you could get full power. You would need a triangulated arm mounted to the bumper or bumper mounts.

I want those saw blades like there was on the "Mach 5" that Speed racer had on his TV show. This will be fun...

I was thinking that somebody could make a mold of the well behind the seat, then make fiberglass inserts you can stick in there to hold stuff without scratching up the metal. the only problem I saw was that there is a 1/2 inch welded lip around the well you can remove, but it might weaken the sheetmetal in the area.

That looks kinda cool, but do you really expect it to work? what kind of improvement are you expecting? I saw one of these things on Ebay for $60 (includes filter and maybe rubber coupler) and the guy claims an 8-10 hp increase: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?iewItem&item=2428703316

Just found out that you can get a glove box for the trunk?" : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33698&item=2430292253 Maybe this guy means those two wells behind the seats & under the deck. But you can't get at those normally because the deck is screwed down, except for mine, which has a hinged section.

I'm referring to the solid rod shaft that goes from the plastic coupler to the rack. That part is a solid rod and doesn't look like it will collapse. The collapseable part mentioned in another reply must be hidden under the dash or something.

I noticed from some of the power steering conversions I looked at that the Z car didn't come with a collapsable steering shaft. This makes me think of how safe it would be from the front if there was a collision, collapsing the front. In that case, the shaft/collumn would be forced back through the firewall, and the steering wheel would hit you in the chest. Right? I'm bringing this up because i wanna do the Mustang rack conversion, and I think I should include the collapsable shaft, as Alsil put in his writeup: http://zcar.netdojo.com/steering.htm If anyone can help here, which Borgeson shaft would I want to get, or which /make/model truck was the one Alsil got for his car? He doesn't know which truck it was himself.

I was going to suggest that you make sure the flasher unit is working because you can't fix that. I had my T.S. switch apart for cleaning. It's just two metal blades with a sliding plate. cleaned it with mineral spirits, then a light coating of grease and it works fine. Make sure you grease the switch mechanical stuff, too, so it will move easily enough. Too much grease will prevent it from staying ON when you let go. Unless the metal parts are broken, I don't see why it would ever stop working.

Lessee if I got it right... The original Talbot mirrors from long ago have a green emblem, or "dot" on the top, with company logo, etc.

Real Talbots. But they're not "green dots."