TomoHawk

Anybody try the elctrolytic/electronic rust protection devices? Any experiences? I kinda wonder if it would work as easily as they say. If there is a part that is insulated with rubber (bushing, weather strip) would it still work? It sounds like it might be a good, inexpensive way to keep your investment in good shape. Maybe you could turn the power way up & actually reverse rust?

Good point. I think thall those idiots should first go on "Morals Court" then the "Dr. Phil" show and maybe even a psychiatrist, and if they can justify going further, then go to court to sue. People just plainly NEED to get their own morays together and take on their OWN FAULTS. Law suits should only be persued if you can actually prove somebody maliciously or purposely did something to hurt you. What this means is that ("honest") ACCIDENTS DO HAPPEN, and they happen to everybody (ever get a paper cut?) This is part of life and you dshould roll with the punches- so to speak. Put the 'fault' where it is due- even it is with yourself. Remember was that guy who gashed his arm on his Z lately? His own fault, or NIssan's?

Plenty of Pan head philips, but no flanged, hex head phillips. Thanks for the effort tho, I've already seen the same things you pointed out.

Dude, McMaster is only 20 minutes from me. I've looked on there already a few times and the best they got is flanged socket-head stuff.

I found out that the threads are 6mm, with standard pitch (1.25 I think). I got a few hex head (just in case) and some round head phillips ( for the door pulls.) All were 25mm length. I'm still going to look for some flange head for under the hood ( for a stock look.) Those should be hex head so you can wrench them down good. the round head are more for looks. Still couldn't figure out what the threads are for the screws on the dash/console.

That line about using premium fuel is junk too, unless he means good-quality fuel. Unless you have a high-compression engine, higher octane will not do you any good. In fact, LOWER octane get you more horespower. Octane additives slow the burn and prevent pre-detonation associated with high compression.

On my 280Z, the wipers are kinda slow too. the motor seems to go fast enough with the linkages off, so I assume the rusty linkage connections are making it slow down and go klunk, klunk, klunk. I was thinking of an acid bath to clean off the rust, then some teflon washers/spacers to help things go smoother.

So why would the Porsche people make a TV commercial involving an RV just like THAT???

Oh please not -that-.....:ahem: I'd have to change my signature / / /

Are you a 'certified' Z-car person, or just "certifiable?"

With that much money, he could buy all us Hybridz'ers a new car, totally customized, every day for the rest of our lives. One each year would be fine for me though- takes that long to break-in the seat!

Hmmmmmm..... I think I'm getting an idea......

I happened to find this document that some may be interested in: http://www.alldata.com/TSB/41/78410467.html Actually, I was looking for a source of 10mm hex head screws.

Can you tell us how you will be bypassing it without that 'fuel smell?' Thx.

Those screws are all over under the hood- coil, heat shields, fuel filter, charcoal cannister, the trouble light, the inspection doors, hood bumperettes, what else? I'll try ebay, what do you think about going to the dealer?

The ones I'm referring to are used to attach the air cleaner to the radiator support, the brackets under the rear deck, the door pulls, and so on... 10mm hex head with the phillips slots & a washer. I I think it's 5 x 1.25mm threads? 've broken the heads off about 6 so far, so I'm out of spares. And I don't want to mix fasteners so I end up carrying more tools to fix anything that might happen. thx.

You know- those 10mm hex head/phillips screws that are all over the Z car... Is that what you call them? Where do you get those at, or can I buy a bunch from somebody? thx.

I looks like the MM coilovers are adjustable to give you the height you want? And all you would have to do is grind the old perch off smooth? That way I could lower my front as much as needed. It looks about 1 inch higher than the back right now, & I'd like to lower the whole thing about 1 to 1 1/2 inch. cool.

The wiring diagram in the Haynes book is nice IF you got a giant projector to enlarge it big enough to see. Otherwise, I got a nice one from a Mitchel's book a local library had. But that was many years ago, and I don't know if libraries still have the Mitchel's books with the wiring diagrams- they seem to be switching over to so0mething else...

I made an adapter tube to fit inside the stock shift lever and the shift knob. Two different diameters. The pushrod goes up through the adapter and needed to be cut to length. If you can get the whole shift lever from a Dodge, it might fit inside the Datsun shift lever, simplifying things.

Side pipes would be a good idea for that wasted space behind the front wheels. I was going to suggest you see what the hot-rodders do to have side pipes on their cars.

I thought I'd share something I got done over summer.. I replaced the cruddy, broken t-handle on the stock Z shifter with a shift knob from a Dodge (Intrepid/Stratus/etc). It looks mch more like a shifter for a manual trans, and you can't see the button! After removing the transmission indicator, I'll put on a nice shifter boot. the guy at the tire store couldn't figure it out! He came back in the store to ask me what the shift "pattern" was, and why the clutch pedal was missing! '

If the body, & suspension are in good condition, then the only thing left that might cause problems is that 25+ year-old wiring. You can manage to pull over safely without any electric power, but if a tie rod or control arm breaks- well, you know. An old mustang will have really nice copper in the wires, but that cheap Japanese stuff can be scary, from what I see on my car. Good luck & have fun with your 'driver.'

I bet you could adapt one from a V8 with dual carbs, or get a long one from a custom store. You would probably need to fabricate a (bottom) plate to fit your engine & filter. Otherwise, maybe get one off the many parts cars featured on this site. cheers,

I checked the plugs last week and #3,4,5 looked normal. #1,2 & 6 had oil on the threads. the coil 'looks' old, so I think I will change that out and maybe even the spark plugs & wires just to refresh things. I will probably have to get a look at the distributor over the weekend (after the hurricane passes through).