TomoHawk

So if I remove the original dashboard, I could probably get rid of most of the smell, right? There will probablly still be some odor from the carpets, but I think Febreeze and some fresh air might be ablle to handle that. Where can you get a dash to completely replace the original that doesn't have any (older type) foam, or any foam at all, in it?

The reason I was interested was because on their website, they have a deal for (racers). I assume they mean automotive, and motorcycles would fit in with autos. About the electrical thing - I think they mean household electrical fires, which might cause electrocution by bridging the wires, or with something conductive, causing electrocution. I think automotive voltages aren't really considered "electrical." Maybe somebody has an official word on that.

Thanks, Pete. I knew halon wasn't meant to be breathed for more than the few moments it should take to get out, which is why they are using it in drag racing ( although they use face sheilds with a little air mask to escape.) I think I'll look into the FireAde system, it looks like something 'safe' to use. It's supposed to be everything you would want to use in your car. http://www.fireade.com

I like the smell as part of the old-car thing, but when it gets kinda strong, it ruins the effect.

I remember Ozium from the '70s... I was kind of expecting a suggestion that I clobber everything with Febreeze?

I'm referring to that musty smell old cars have. It might be from the old carpet foam, mildew or mold, gasoline leaks or whatever. Does anybody have a defensive plane to get an old car to smell 'better?' Driving with the windows down helps, but it comes back with a day or so in ther sun.... or rain.

If I did get a whole wiring system, how difficult would it be to connect to the stock Datsun engine system? Can I assume it needs more than just +12V?

I wired a '32 deuce once - took me 3 months, on weekends, using both hands. If I was able to do the wiring, I already would have redone the lights. But since I am without the use of one hand, it would take a many months just for the front and I'm not sure I would really trust the job. On the other hand, is it possible to get the (original) connectors? If I did my own wiring, I'd do it in sections, so I could still use the car. Good for testing the circuits, too.

Looks like the wiring under the hood of my 78 Z would be better off if completely replaced, especially since i'm going to put on the GTO clip with all new lights. Is there a place I can contact, like Nismo, to get or have a new one made? Could there be a compatible wiring harness from a modern car? I wouldn't mind if the lengths weren't exact.

I was thinking that those fuseblocks (with high-amp circuit breakers/fuses) from late-model cars would be good, if you can find one with the appropriate circuit breaker capacities. You might look at cars that had a similar engine?

On my '78Z, for some reason, the right TS in fron stopped working. I pulled the connector apart to check it with the light and I don't get anything, although the rear light does go on, and doesn't blink. Could I have broken a wire inside the connector? I even tried to de-oxidize the pins in the connector, with no luck. Is there another test point on the wiring harness to check the TS circuits? Thx.

The voltmeter in my '78Z also shows voltage with the key off. I assumed it was normal, because it uses very little current to operate. No? I'll take a look at the wiring diagram to see if the voltmeter is on the switched side. Otherwise, hat type(s) of things would I look for?

I'm ready to get my power steering installed. I have a Mustang rack, but I think the RX-7 or Miata rack might be the way to go, because of ease of mounting to the crossmember. What's the word on the RX-7 system? I'm using the L-28 engine.

That's a definite possibility, man. the Grant system has a 2-wire horn connection in it, so you can use one for the horn and the other for the (starter interupter?) the horn goes to ground, so I think you would need to do the same for the starter interrupt.

Using SPDT switches and diodes, you can create a simple digital "combination lock." Or maybe using DPDT or even totary switches to makes things harder, like the enigma machine.

Darn, I removed the microswitch that activates the A/C pump. But I dids think of using a bamk of switches near the heater controls. It would look like ordinary toggle switches like for fog lights, but would be for fuel pump, started, etc., I'm wqorking on away to use switches as a 'combination lock' so they have to be switched on in a dc ertain order to work. Anybody do any research into a "keyring "transponder" type system?

In reply to Doug's comment, My car isn't used for racing. It's just a plain car, and I don't see any reason to use a fire bottle big enough to put out forest fires. It should fit conveniently where I want it and shouldn't look like it came from a nuclear power facility. Nor should it advertise that you think your car is such a fire hazard that you really need a fire extinguisher. Would you put a 20 Lb. bottle in your Crown Vic or SUV?

I looked at racerwholesale.com, and they only had a 10 Lb bottle. Looks like too much for a cruise car. I also found fireAde 200 had a good one. Maybe I'll check Home depot and a couple auto parts stores first. [/url][/u]

Can somebody suggest a fire extinguisher that's not real flashy, or doesn't look like it belongs in the kitchen? What kind of an A B C rating should it have for auto use. Where is a good place to look for one? Autozone? No Pep Boys in my area. I plan on mounting it between the seats where the console used to be, on a plate held by the 3 screws that held down the console. thx.

I'm a little stumped too. If you just pull up or down on the lever, it won't stay engaged, unless you hold it & pull back a little. Is there some kind of ball bearing thing in there that I can tighten up? I's important because I will be adding a lever to control the TS for my right hand.

Here's a new thing I noticed: Do your wipers OVERLAP? What I mean is that they should overlap in the middle to give a completely wiped strip across the windshield. When I adusted the arms so they park nicely at the bottom of the window, they don't overlap, and it was noticeable driving on a day with light drizzle. I hope I won't need to rely on them to wipe the whole window in real rain. Is it possible I adjusted it wrong, or asssembled it wrong? It seems like there was only one way to assemble, with yth only adjustment being the position of the arms on the pivots.

I think the way Grant made the hub is a good way. You are guaranteed that the 3 mounting bolts don't come out without forcing them. The helicoil wouldn't work after removal because there aren't any threads left to repair. You'd have to tap it out bigger and get some fancy shoulder bolts. I would like to know what kind of grease is used so I can put some more on later if needed.

I'm talking about a Grant steering wheel! You screw the steering whhel onto the adapter. I do't know what kind of screws they are using. they look like normal screws. When you remove them, the threads on the adapter hub and the screws themselves get stripped. No threads on the steering wheel, only 3 holes. Leave the original wheel out of this, has nothing to do with the adapter.

Dood. I'm talking about the GRANT steering wheel. My Grant wheel has 3 bolts to screw the it to the adapter. If you try to unscrew those, you will ruin the threads on both the screws and the adapter. I keep the stock steering wheel in case something happens with the Grant system.

Id thr jury still out on the RX-7 rack idea? I can get one of those too, but I hate to spemd more money on something I can't use or return or resell.