ArnZ

I love the Sharp cars, a few more pics. Not A Z, but I always liked the M1 scheme

That was a qoute after a 20 minute visit. Very vague, I see it as a "atleast this much" price. I really doesn't matter, I won't (can't) spend that kind of money. I found this on e-bay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220185507737&rd=1 I asked the guy some questions as far the displacement and piston specs, (I assume he means JE) but I have not heard back from him. 1983 L28 F54 Short Block Forged flat top G & E pistons Total seal rings Corillo rods Knife edge diesel crank with ARP crank studs Brand new engine Never used

Maybe these will help Thanks

Carl what are specifically looking for? The car is dismantled.

I did not know that the US 77 78 doors were different. I knew that the 240's have different armrest mountings and were lighter. I just assumed that the doors were going to be just like mine. I am still confused as to which US car most resembles mine. I assume it would be a 260?

I never have seen your sig, praise Frank!

I seen this ad a few months ago. My first thought, who doesn't know what a 240 looks like? And if they didn't, they would not be interested in buying one. Freakin IDIOT! I wanted to e-mail, but why?

Mine is a 30 the doors I got came off of a 31

Wow great engine! That intake looks better than my Webers(almost) Give me your address and the days nobody will be home. I would jump all over a $2100 machine and assembly job! I figured I assemble myself but I have never built a engine, I can "paint by numbers" but if I can find a deal like that, it's a no brainer.

Thanks, but........?

If only a few wires are astray you will be better off trying to repair them. Have you tried to "Hotwire" the car? Bypass the ignition switch as if you were starting without the key, as mentioned earlier the problem may be in the ignition switch. If the car will start with a screwdriver, it's not that bad. If you do not know how to bypass the key, we (me /somebody) can post a schematic.

I know I have seen this car on 285? no bumper and antique plates

My doors are original and the 76 has the original paint and Jap stickers on them.

I read most of those in my searches, I couldn't find anything stating when the rear bumber indent went away, I guess when the big bumpers where introduced? My car is has them, the 76 I got the doors from had them. I guess the 260 small bumper had them and the non US spec Z's had them up until? That is what made not think twice about the doors working. The 76 Fairlady had small bumpers, so I assumed it would be similar to mine. Another lesson learned.

I have searched here and the net for some info and haven't found all the answers. I just picked up some JDM doors for my 75 Fairlady, I wanted these because I wanted the correct doors. (no FMVSS side impact protection) After a 1000 mile trip, I noticed that the striker is different, and the door locks are moved forward a few inches. The doors came of off a 76 Fairlady. I think that the 280Z's changed in 77? Are there any differences in the 74,75 and 76 doors exluding the 2+2's. Also up to what year Z's had the recessed area for the rear bumper? Thanks

My God where ar you at on the bill? That's got be hefty! You could have had them stretch it and have 240 limo.

I actually have not made any calls yet, I have been focusing on getting the car ready for the booth. Allocating the remainder of soft parts and small details. I planned on using forged pistons from the get go, but these guys know thier stuff and said the cast would be fine. I think that I would sleep better with forged. I don't see saving $ there is a good idea.

I can't do a V8 in this car, it's gotta be a L.

I was told the cast pistons were sufficient for my application. From the get go, I planned on doing the assembly myself. I have "How to hot rod and race..." "How to modify......" "How to rebuild....." Multiple factory service manuals, and years or trolling the net. I have done my homework and have aquired everything but the pistons. So I am going to make some calls and see what else is out there.

Try bypassing the resistors and compare the difference it makes

As soon as I seen the shop I felt that I was out of my league. Why can't they bore and balance without assembling the engine?

I know Sunbelt does it right, As soon as you walk in thier shop, you just say WOW. There are more 911's in there than most Porsche dealerships. The place is cleaner than a hospital. I just want my block bored and everything balanced. Take my time, ask questions, and assemble myself.

Bingo

I wanted to just have the machine work and balancing done. They basically told me that the engine has to be assembled to ensure that everything will be right. I thought that I could get everything balanced, the block bored and be on my way?