ArnZ

"Very Descriptive piece of infromation there buddy. Everyone reads japanese" You are in trouble if you can't figure it out without translation! A picture is worth a thousand words

I was not prepared to spend this for a mild stroker, I honestly thought that it would be about half of this amount being I am suppyling almost everything. Now what? Labor performed to machine, assemble & balance 3.0 L series motor 60hrs @ 120.00 7,200.00 Parts include, Rocker pivots, rocker arms, lash pads, valves, valve seats, valve guides, seals, inner and outer springs, cam up grade, all new gaskets and seals, all new timing components, Oil pump, gears, guides and spindle, up graded rod bearings, Block screen, main bolts, head bolts w/ washers & dip stick. Does not include any unforeseen parts. 3,200.00 Customer supplies rebuildable core motor with head including 89mm KA pistons, rods, stroker crank, Harmonic balancer and flywheel. $10,400.00

Super rare space age metals, adds 30hp too! It is stupid to pay that much if you think it is stupid. If you are restoring a Fairlady Z correctly, nothing else will do. I will sleep with them everynight until they get installed.

$500 in 1970 was a lot of money. I don't think they were that much.

I think that they are NLA, good luck. Please don't break my heart and tell us you can get all you want for $159.99 (LOL)

Thanks guys, I don't have them in my hand and could not figure it t.

I need a original seal, does he have one. Which side cover are you getting? I believe I am buying a right side in a parts lot.

I am down to getting a few more OEM soft parts, rear hatch seal and some small stuff. Hopefully three months will be in the booth. Once I receive them I planned on scanning the instructions and taking some close up pictures of the hardware. That should help anybody who has a set with no hardware.

The covers are sold. Those "stupid headlight covers " Are what was on my Fairlady Z when I got it. It ain't easy finding these brand in the box. It looks absurd paying that much, but I did not want use used ones when everything else is brand new. It's only money

Just use speaker grill cloth, stretch, staple, resin, use heat gun to warm vinyl, spray adhesive to warm vinyl. Staple bottom and under driver lip.

Do you think that the green bulb going through the red lense would be bright enough? Where do you get green bulbs? Marine applications?

I just picked up a set of new headlight covers. I am getting rid of my old ones if anyone is interested. $400.00 shipped

I bought some parts and have a few of these. I googled the # but no luck.

Are you looking for a car or the parts? I could get you a firewall and everything forward. Rough dash but everything is there

I am making a run this weekend to buy some parts off of a Fairlady Z this weekend. All of the JDM goodies are gone but the car is there. Let me know if there is anything anybody needs. The car has a JDM FI L20 with tranny (4spd?) I have not seen the car, but I know these parts are gone, grill, tail lights, mirrors, calendar or rally clock, bumpers, doors, hood, turn indicators, and dash is cracked. I will be going there Saturday or Sunday after Thanksgiving. Anyone can e-mail me directly while I am on the road to guitarnie@comcast.net I am not trying to make any money here, there are not a lot of parts to choose from, but there may be something somebody can't find.

The hardware is going to be almost impossible to find without the mirrors. I have never seen just the hardware for sale anywere. Your best bet is to buy a new set of chrome mirrors (cheaper than black) yank the hardware and then dump the raw mirrors on E-bay.

He does not state if they are actual Nissan pieces. Repros are cheap on Yahoo Japan.

I doubt there are any decals, the hood has the original black primer. Black Dragon offers a repro hood, I assume that there are others?

I have a chance to buy a NOS hood that was bought from a dealer some years ago. Does anybody know how to tell a OEM hood from a reproduction? I know there has to be some way to tell without it actually having Nissan part number. I have no reason to doubt this guy, but I need to know 100%. Thanks

I bought a unmolested 82 Turbo, Florida rust bucket for $150. The body was shot, but parts for days.

I ve searched the forum but did not find anything defenitive. I am trying to get the $201.99 Fairlady running, I changed the fuel pump but have some blockage in the lines. I will shoot some air through the lines what else should I do?

For 90K you could get the 240 and this 260Z http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-nissan-260z-1974datsun-260-z-show-room-new-19-000-miles-240z-280z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQihZ019QQitemZ290171677073QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

The fusible link that smokes when the headlights are on should be at the top of the "TO Do" list. I would first concentrate on trying to get everything working like it was without the car running. If your meter has a continuity mode, test the fusible links. You can always make a temporary fusible link by using a ATC fuse with some female spade connectors and electrical tape. I would reconnect your 16" ground and make sure the ground point is clean, wire brush any paint, dirt etc. Don't take any wires for granted, "I know for sure that wire is a ground" has bitten me in the butt many times.

Those are panties on the floor. Get a girl (or three) in there, and they go flying! That gap on the front is not good, looks to be about a inch under the bucket.