ihiryu

Collin's makes the plate. You really don't need anything else though. So you'll use the RB flywheel, with a 350z clutch and pressure plate (350z is bolt on the RB20 actually). If you plan to use the stock clutch and PP, you'll have to machine the bell housing to make up the difference. If not you'll have to use the bearing sleeve from a 200sx V6 or something along those lines. Either way you'll have to build a driveshaft, and transmission mount. I am a dealer for Collin's however I don't get a big discount at all though. I've used a few of their kits, and I think they are okay. For the money though, you can't really beat it. I usually recommend their kits for the 2J guys since we can usually do the entire deal (kit, trans, clutch D/S etc) for the cost of just the getrag transmission

For those who missed out there still is a Christmas sale! Good until the 15th!

Thanks so much for the order guys! I'm glad that I get to talk to everyone about their Z projects. It's so crazy how we can have a single car, but can be changed so much from each build, to the next.

Sorry just got back from lunch. PM replied

Yes sir, Sales ends at 5 PM MST. But I will need the order before that. Meaning that we're getting pretty close to it.

The problem with water/meth is that you really have to tune for it. Virtually what you end up doing is leaning out the mixture for the meth to make up for it, then you can add timing. Problem is the lack of fail safe measures. Most of the time, the ECU won't know if it's spraying meth or not. And then it runs leans and goes boom.

No sir, I sent him a PM, but never got a reply.

Black Friday ends today!

First BF order is in! Keep 'em coming guys!

It's cause I love you guys lol

Please PM me part numbers good, sir

There is always room!

No that's fine, it's just someone asked for a paypal invoice. He did also state that we could have used a credit card. I figured it would be 3% or so, so I just shrugged it off. Well, I was in for a doozy lol.

Someone took me up on my extra discounted offer. One other thing guys, I cannot do paypal invoices anymore. On this last order, I quoted a customer 785 for a complete gauge set, two logos, shipped internationally. The problem is, is that paypal charged me 30 dollars on fees alone. Which means that this last order put me in the negative. I give you guys super good deals, but if I do paypal invoices, I will have to charge extra. Sorry for the inconveniences guys, but I am here to HELP the community save money, but I CANNOT lose money in the process. I'll be honest with you guys, I don't make very much on these gauges. 15-20 dollars, per order, if that. I take my time, read/reply to emails, I do it because I love the community, sure making a little beer money is nice, but there's no way I can do this if I lose money (I don't love you guys enough to do that lol.) So please, if you have no other choice than a paypal invoice, then I will have to charge extra.

Now we know, how much bigger do you think they need to be? Like would you say there was half an inch or more? Thanks, yours does seem a bit more visible than mine.

Did you not try to just drop them into the hole?? Another person told me via email that he was able to just drop them into the hole with the factory gauge removed. You pretty mounted yours the same way I did mine.

Just had an email order go in! We're still alive and kicking! I'll offer an additional discount to someone who orders a 4.5 and posts up an install photo!

Is rocket bunny kits not actually functional? Like seriously? I mean if it wasn't for the super lowness of the kit, the openings look good, etc etc

Lmao, I wasn't aware that was his last name

Yay! In a few more days, you must be excited

So here's an update. I checked for a boost leak the other day, and everything is good to go. And so I went to check for CEL's and here's what I have 11 Crankshaft position sensor 12 MAF Signal 21 Ignition Circuit 34 Knock Sensor I believe code 11 and 12 are from the DET3 unit. Since the DET3 is intercepting the crank signal and the MAF signal. And when driving I've accidentally activated launch control. Code 21 SHOULD be from the LS1 coil packs. I've deleted the ignitor and coil packs. 34, the big one. If the car sees knock it enters limp mode. So this might the big one. The weird thing is the car was running perfect, as is, until just the other day. I wonder if I saw knock playing with the boost controller function of the DET3?

It allows frequency modifications. So you could possibly take one knock sensor, send it into FREQ_In, and take the two knock sensor wires, and Y them into the FREQ_OUT and use the software to modify the signal so where it never sees knock.

I thought about this too, I haven't had a chance to boost leak test it. Driving my miata today.

Hey guys, as some of you know, I now have a R32 Skyline. The car has been running fine, and out of nowhere it started hesitating and missing under boost. If I keep the throttle at say, 75% or so, I won't have any hesitation, but the boost only goes up to about 9 or so PSI, if I romp on it, it will start to sputter and hesitate. Mods are as so: Stock turbo, manifold. 3" from turbo back, no test pipe Front Facing intake manifold Intercooler Stock Injectors Stock MAF Walbro 255 LS1 Coil packs (No more ignitor) Also running ECUMaster DET3 piggyback. Also, the car has had these mods when I first got the car, and this literally started happening about a week ago. I thought it was bad gas (got some gas at a suspect place), but I'm on my second batch of gas, and I'm still having the problem. The wideband goes lean (13:1) when it begins to stutter. So I don't think it's an issue with spark blow out, I would imagine that if that was the case, it would go straight rich, rather than lean. I'm still running the same plugs, but again, I feel that if it was an ignition problem, it should be running rich rather than lean. Oh, one other thing, I was playing with the DET3 as far as fueling goes, but when the problem arose, I went back to the stock map.

Pics or ban!