ihiryu

Last day to get your extra discount on gauges!

Fourth of July Sale!!!!!! It's good until the sixth! Now is the time to save!

No! I just came back from Dallas! I don't know if you're into Karting, but Dallas Karting Complex is a blast, it's in Caddo Mills, (by Garland and Rockwall). Rockwall has a pretty large lake, so it's nice and scenic.

Sent you a reply back via PM. Forgot to answer your question, 4" or 4.5" will work. 4" takes a little modifying with the stock stuff, 4.5 SHOULD sit right on the dash.

So....did you ever check for power at the o2 sensor and the IAC like I told you to?

Did you hook up the hose from the intercooler piping to the IACV? Cleaning it would help, also make sure it actually has power. The O2 Sensor, and IACV shares power if I remember correctly

Yup. How can I upload the Ini?

Me?

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11205 I use the oil can method in this link. Works pretty good. And it's a lot cleaner. Make sure you use clear hose too! A few times I've used regular black hose and I could never see if I had the bleeder opened or not, and pressurized brake fluid hit me in the face. Not a fun feeling.

One member just put an order in, hopefully he gets them installed soon. Anyway, yes they are cut and weld. You cut your old strut housing, and weld these sleeves in.

Oh, VEAL doesn't do idle, you have to do idle. What happens when you lean it out via the VE table?

Uploaded my MS2E, and it didn't like it

Okay, so here's a few things. 1) You don't really need to "incorporate AFR's" but it is very helpful. So in the future, if you decide you want to run a different AFR in a certain load point, all you have to do is change your target AFR tables, versus trying to redo the VE map. I also really, really recommend using VEAL, it's worth the 50 dollars. You dial in your AFR table, and let VEAL do it's magic. Give it a sanity check, and go from there. Learn how to smooth out your VE Table in 3D. 2) The throttle lean issue you're having is from lack of Accel Enrichment. Every car is slightly different in it, and it's a PITA to dial in just right. And it's even worse if you decide to change injectors cause you'll have to do it again. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/megasquirt_acceleration_enrichment_tuning.htm Stare at this link until it make sense. AE is based on HOW fast you hit the throttle. And it's based on your driving. I can drive my miata just fine, but when someone else drives it, it has a bit of hesitation, based solely on how they drive (I haven't had a change to really dig back into this, but people seldom get to drive my car). Another strategy for AE, is getting on the highway, in your final gear (fifth), and do varying throttle tip in's (usually with someone else driving or logging when you're driving) to get an idea on how AE works, and what changes need to be made. Also if your REQ_FUEL is off, you'll NEVER get it dialed in right. My suggestion would be to BOX in your idle map (use the all 9 squares around your idle) to get it to where it needs to be. Also keep in mind of the load break points, on my base map for my miata, the break points were 900, then 1200, but my idle was set at 1000, so I could never get it to idle the right AFR's because it was interpolating between two load cells, until I boxed it in, then I had an issue with tip in throttle. I rescaled my map for 500, 1000, 1700 ETC that way I could get it to hit certain load points based on my driving habits. You might want to see if you can find anyone using your injectors, otherwise, I would look into a different injector that people have some data on (such as RX8 460's). I'm not using an L motor (obviously since my MS is in a miata), so I don't know what injectors would fit your motor. Oh! For your MAT Correction, leave it at 100, but you have to try to tune on days that are close in temperature. Once you get your VE dialed in, at that point you'll want to play with your MAT Correction. Also, if you log take a look at GAIR, that's the MAT correction factor.

I've sold two Collin's kits. They have an issue with shipping stuff.... Anyway, the adapter works nice, the original adapter required shaving, and the new one doesn't. The problem with shaving, is not everyone can do it, but if you don't have shave it, it ends up being wayyyyy too long. So after you trim the shifter down, it still doesn't sit perfect. It's a good solution though, but has it's issues. But then again, we're trying to get a transmission to fit on a motor, AND chassis it's not designed for.

It's been pretty slow in here lately, help me pay bills!!

I'm a dealer for CX Racing, I don't get a huge discount, but it's better than nothing.

Oh really? I haven't encountered the latter. That's news to me. Good to know.

CAS disc install is pretty easy. You do have to be careful though. It's pretty much take out the CAS, remove the stock disc, and put in the AEM disc.

I still want to come and see this beast, so it can make me regret selling mine.

Joey, You'll at least want the sensors for the AEM (MAP sensor, IAT sensor, and Wideband gauge/controller). I can get you a package deal if you'd like. The stock ecu can be fitted with a nistune board or nismotronic (can't help you on that one). They need internal mods for bigger MAF though. Also, another way you can go is using an RB20 ECU or a Z32 ECU. With an RB20 ecu you'll lose the VVT, but the Z32 can be retained. However, to my understanding with the Z32 ecu, you have to modify a Z32 harness. On the RB20 ECU swap, you only have to move a few pins. There's actually a lot of information on Skyline's Australia about both setups, the RB20 is more popular for them though (since there's an abundance of them over there).

Another order rolled in! Thanks a lot guys!

Oh my, that exhaust note Looking good thanks for posting the results!

Wow, another order! Thanks a lot fellas!

Whoa, two orders today! Still going on guys!

Another purchase went in today! Get your order out pretty soon!