S30 SPL

I think I have what you want in SoCal. PM me if you still need it.

I have a 280Z dash for you in SoCal cheap!

I am in So Cal and have the wiper arms and motor assembly. PM me if you still need them.

I was just curious about the city lights, 0.4A consumption to 2.8A consumption is a big jump for that little socket. I recall people (back in 95) melting the plastic insulation inside the socket from using higher power lamps on other cars. If it works and is reliable, it is what it is.

Buying a wheel that is not a blatant copy of an original product is the point. And yes, a real forged TE37 is worth the money. Potholes and daily driven cars often see much more abuse than those which run on smooth race tracks and berms instead of curbs.

There is a filter in the rear? I haven't seen a filter back there on mine, just a pump and a damper.

35W?? I think those small little bulbs are normally like 5W or so.

Say no to fake knock off wheels.

I have one if you want to do a test fit cheap... I also have the entire harness in it with most of the gauges (just clock is missing). I also have all the brackets you will likely need to make it work.

Or it could be that the fuel pressure regulator is stuck closed and the pressure is too high requiring a LOT of air to get the car to run. Mine failed before, thank goodness for aftermarket and a gauge.

I've run those tires before and those patterns are usually from over driving them and /or low tire pressure for the application.

I don't have boost on my Z, but I do have the GTX3076R on my 2.5L Subaru. With 4 cylinders, I get 20psi of boost before 4k RPM and made a 373hp/386tq on a Mustang Dyno using 91CA pump gas. I imagine that it would work well with a L 6 cylinder engine. The turbo doesn't run out of breath up top, the stupid Subaru heads do.

And if you really do want to "prime", just disconnect the start solenoid lead and crank the car. It will run the pump and you will get the entire system circulating.

And the light distribution will be terrible. That will make them look like the first generation angel eyes from eBay. lol

35W city lights are going to fry that socket and wiring!

There seem to be many options that can work in our cars with a little fiddling. I don't think it will be a problem.

Or oil if it is thick and much more stinky.

I think that it is interfering with things because you altered the location it was intended to originally to be installed. Everything put together made it not fit like they designed. I think you should try a longer endlink to see if it resolves your issue and/or relocate your cable above the sway bar.

Don't forget when it rains without that thing, the air cleaner sucks in water... trust me...

Wheel design is also very important for thermal management, wheels that have solid faces for example (extreme) are not very good at moving air around the hot parts.

No images because your pictures were too big.

The Silvermine rear brake kit is pretty nice, I have it myself. The one thing that nobody mentioned (I don't think) is to make sure whatever you decide on, there are plenty of pads available. This is one of the main reasons why I decided to use the MM front Cobra kit plus the Silvermine Mustang kit in the rear, SOOO MANY choices. And the front can easily be upgraded to the Cobra R Brembos if you needed that extra 2 pistons and bling. I figure 13" front and back should stop the car plenty fine. Throw in a larger master and adjustable proportioning valve, it should work ok. Not too expensive, but is easy with upgrade potential.

Man, if I could swap my 2011 STI under my Z... lol.

Very nice, too bad Kansas is too far from So Cal... lol.

Nice!! Where are you located? Want to make some money in your spare time?