janaka

I've got no means to get the entire car home as its quite a distance away from home and not in canada...lol

Well I'm pulling the trigger on an '00 SS LS1 and T56. He is offering a few more things than just the engine/tranny. The list of stuff posted that he will allow me to take above and beyond the engine/tranny are below. This is his post. Would there be anything above and beyond this list that would be beneficial to ask for to help with the swap ('76 280Z)? I'm kinda excited but don't want to miss anything Merry Christmas to me

primer is where its at. bad sealing of any substraight means that no matter the quality of the top coat/clear coat it has a great propensity to fail prematurely (lots of paint experience, just not automotive)

This will be primarily a 'pleasure' vehicle for my wife and I, as it is now. I do take it for sales calls on th odd friday afternoon or saturdays and likewise my wife takes it to the office on occasion. We live in Canada, eh. But the car gets put away as soon as it hits 10*C or less (err 50*F?) as the tires turn to hockey pucks (the round black things we play ice hockey with...lol) so cold weather isn't a huge issue. Performance wise for now (those words wil haunt me i'm sure) I'm just looking at doing a small-med cam and necessary valvetrain mods to it. Down the road as need be I'll go nuts with a big head/cam combo but i'm hoping thats at least a year or two AFTER the swap... i'll eat those words for sure. Looks like Carb for now and switch to FI down the road if it pans out that way. I just wish the guy selling the motor would answer his damn emails..lol thanks guys jason

There are just too damn many options with engines to swap in. I'm looking at an LQ4 that a relatively local guy has for sale, details below: I initially was thinking that I would go LSx to go FI and do whatever necessary to integrate it to the car. but this way its sorta KISS methodology as I get to keep my fuel system as it is etc. Would it be worth it to pull off the intake, carb and msd thing to revert it to FI ? or should I just run it the way it is? Thoughts comments?

the guy sold the combo on me so i'm out of luck. LKQ corp.. never heard of them, do you have a website by chance? I see you are in CA, and I'm in CA (Canada). The last shipping quote for a ls1/t56 was $1000 to me not including brokerage/duty. anyway any help will be greatly appreciated

somewhat off topic: can someone post a link to where to find these sfc's? I did a search on google and didnt come up with anything some how. on topic: IMO something used to stiffen the chassis shouldn't be the first place to look to take material away from in efforts to loose weight on the car. thanks

ok it looks like i was completely confused as to what a "painless" harness was... its basically an aftermarket wire system to integrate the pcm to a new car... correct? i called the guy that has the LS1/T56 and he's asking $4300 for the motor/tranny and a painless wire harness (didn't know that before) sounds like a deal?

I'm reading time and time again that people who are swapping LSX's into Z's that they are not using the factory wiring harness. People are using "painless" harness', speartech harness', etc etc instead. why is this? I'm from the Gm world (owned a turbo seriesII Grand Prix) and the PCM is highly tunable through HP tuners and other tuning programs for the factory style PCM/harness. Is there something that I'm missing for a reason why people are ditching the stock wire harness? I would think the stock harness on the motor with the PCM would be the 'easiest' way to go then just tune the PCM for any mods if necessary (cam, TB, headers, injectors, gears etc). can someone enlighten me as i'm a little confused and I'm now looking at the LS1 swap as I have a line on a LS1/T56 combo for a reasonable price.

they add the "0" after the 2 to denote that it IS a "0" after the two. technically speaking with out denoting what the following digit is it can be anything as long as the 2 is correct.. so a .02" could be .021" and so forth as its not an exact measurement. in the world of clearances etc they are exact, .020" is exactly that and only that.

IMO $4k seems high for a car missing a lot of pieces needing a lot of work still.. looks like some interior is still missing and whats there is worn (shifter caught my eye, but it could just be dirty)... There's a ton of work still to be done I'm no Z specialist though, so take that for what its worth.

i love our two honda's.... stock though...

i always wondered that too. thanks

I'll input my $.02. Car sales is NOT fun for someone just entering the business. Its a total different sale than any other sale out there. You are percieved as a liar by customers and will be treated like one. Business is VERY cyclical for a beginner until you have repeat customers. I'm a leader in my business for sales and I've tried car sales as I thought it would be a good fit since I love cars, know cars and I can sell. Not the case with car sales. its all in your personality though, some can, some can't. I couldn't, yet I'm #1 in my office and #4 in my company currently at age 25... who knew... good luck though, I'm just saying car sales isn't anywhere near what I'd want in a 2nd job.

I'm looking to up the power of my 280z. currently its a 162rwhp on an L28 motor. .460 lift cam, dual SU's, header, 2.5" exhuast. F54 flattop block and P79 head with mild port work from previous owner. CR 8.8:1 there is a guy locally selling a fresh rebuilt F54 flattop with N42 head (again mild port work) and small cam. I'm told the F54 and the N42 will net a CR of 10.4-10.5:1, is this correct? If so, if I drop in a larger cam (say in the .500 lift region), lots of port work (whitehead performance specializes in L6 heads local to me) and add Triples would that get me in the 200+RWHP range? The motor is going for about $1500, cam + head work prolly in the $2500-3000 range and then triples for another $800ish. So about $5000 for it all, give or take. This leaves me with my entire motor to either sell to re-coupe some costs or have to drop in if I need to later on, or build for another Z down the roads. Thoughts or comments?

this thread is 4 years old... and he lives in Canada... woot

ok update on this the shop called me back and he was wrong about the head... the head is the N42. someone correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the N42 head with flat top pistons equate to a 10.5:1 CR? if so I may go with this and stay NA.I've read (and read) that the n42 is the best head for making good power... Add a larger cam and 200rwhp should be doable?

having an adapter for the stereo and the stereo fitting are two different things. IMO based on my '76 Z a single din headunit will fit. I do NOT see a 1.5DIN fitting and a 2DIN will NOT fit without major mod'ing to the dash.

So I've finally found ONE shop in my area that has a datsun motor, ironically enough the owner has restored his ZX and had a spare motor built that he now has no intentions of using. This engine hasn't even been turned over yet. the block is said to be out of a 1980 ZX (parts car) that was rebuilt with the flat top pistons and the head is a P90. I'm looking to do a turbo swap for my car but I was really hoping for the dished pistons but such is life. the head was said to have been ported and polished, new valve seals etc. is this block worth buying for a turbo project? If I read correctly the CR on this will be about 8.5-8.6:1 based on a stock rebuild? He is asking $1500 for the block/head and all accessories included. Deal or no deal? FWIW I have a F54 and P79 head in my Z now that is a recent rebuild with a cam etc in it...

i've seen F54 blocks with heads on them for $500. add turbo manifold ($50-150), turbo ($400), engine management ($1000), IC and plumbing ($600), downpipe ($200) then add optional head work and you are on your way. $2850 incl. engine plus head work if u want. thats rough ... like i said 3-5 is ball park depending on quality of parts and if you upgrade anything

$3-5 is possible. closer to 5+ would be a more realistic/reliable build from my reading... and i've done a LOT... a 280zxt transplant is the easiest way to get a turbo in the car hands down IMO. then upgrade the head (port work, valves etc), IC and plumbing and turbo upgrade will put you in the 3-5k I would think. someone correct me if i'm wrong jason

this makes me wish i had a 240z... awesome work and IMO a fair price too. If I get a 240 I'll be all over these

how much for the turbo set up then? I'm looking at doing a swap and it looks like you have it sorted out already. Let me know if you are looking to sell

Ok I appreciate that feedback. Now would it make more sense to just buy an entire L28ET or do I just swap out the flattop pistons I have in my F54 for dished to lower the CR from 8.8:1 to something like 8:0 and get a P90 head + turbo mani/intake, IC and those add ons? Again, input is appreciated. Jason

Well I've had my Z for almost a year now (its been an awesome ride so far!) and like any car you find it not being 'enough' as it is. my current car is a '76 280Z with the following modifications when I bought it. Block F54 -The block was professionally boiled and cylinders honed. New- piston rings, crankshaft bearings, oil pump, timing gear and chain kit, water pump, freeze plugs, gaskets and seals, hoses and belt Head P79 [resurfaced head, 3 angle valve grind, rocker arms, lash pads, springs and retainers, seals. (8.8:1 CR)] Schneider cam- .460 valve lift, 270 intake duration, 280 exhaust duration Dual domed top 4 screw SU carbs- rebuilt, performance needles and nozzles. N33 carb intake manifolds. K&N air filter. MSA 6 into 1 header. MSA 2.5 inch aluminized performance exhaust with super turbo muffler. 5spd manual with 3.90:1 rear end R200 this car put down 162RWHP and 162RWTQ this spring and tracked a 15.3@89.9MPH with a 2.0 60' time. This car is my 'fun' car. I take it for my sales calls on fridays and saturdays if its nice out and for the odd evening during the week. Its my weekend fun toy really My wife will take it on the odd day to work as well as doing car cruises, car shows etc with it. For what it is its ok. I'm looking for more though. I've got some spending money set aside for the increase in power already. I was looking at a SBC option but when I put together my budget for it I was nearing $10k...and well thats more than I paid for the car I could stand to spend in the neighborhood of $5k and be ok with that for a good bump in power. With that type of budget what would a realistic build/mod would you suggest. I've spend literally hours reading on this and classicZcar and am looking for some 3rd party opinions. I'd love a low 13sec car in the 1/4mile but not sure how plausible that is with my budget. Is there work that can be done with my current setup to get me to that kind of goal? or is it a start from scratch and try again type situation (L6 turbo)? thoughts/comments?