gramercyjam

If you are using a return line. Mines dead headed. Depending on your regulator it could be this too - regulator - carb - carb - carb Return line - tank

There's and R200 on ebay right now. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33731&item=2457181561

Pulled over in my Vette by the DPS going 85 on the way to Dallas on IH10 once. He asked me if I knew why he pulled me over. I told him yes, because I was going 85. I told him I knew I was going 85 because I checked the speedo right when I saw you. He told me to slow down and have a nice day. No ticket. Another time I pulled out onto deserted a state highway on Sunday AM in Upstate NY and wound my '72 Pinto with a very tricked out 4 banger and open headers up to about 100 before I saw the State Trooper in my rearview. So I pulled over before he ever hit his lights. He ended up giving a ticket for an illegal turn and a verbal warning!

Slow second gear corners mainly. I'd like to stay out of first. Seem to be getting a lot of those lately. The 4.44 gears make that possible, but I run out of second gear quick now too so some times up to third for just second or two, then back to second, brake and start turning in all at the same time. I'm not coordinated enough to do all that turning and braking and shifting at the same time. So if I could just stay in second (like an S2000) on the tight courses, maybe they won't beat me anymore.

Following this thread with interest. You'd think somewhere in the world is a book of dyno plots for various lift/duration cams that we could see (Note to self: Justify this project as a MSME thesis). I guess if there were, the cat would be out of the bag and it would be all over for the engine builders! All I want is a cam that pulls _hard_ from 2.5K to 8K, is that too much to ask? I'll buy it when I find it. My motor build progress is stalled on cam selection. Know where to find one like that?

I'd look at the combination switch on the steering column. Maybe a wire fell off you can solder back on.

What you have should work. I've got Tank - filter - stock electric pump - filter - fuel pressure regulator - carb - carb - carb. I've seen lots of variations though.

Thats your whole trouble. He's wrong. Here's a link to the law. http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/vi/inspection/rules_list.asp?itemdrop=Exhaust+System&rejectsubmit=Go

What they said. No point in boring out an L26 block. You should be able to find an L28 block cheap or even free and turbos are cheap compared to strokers. But what shape is the rest of the car in? Personally, I wouldn't start flushing money on the motor until you got the rest of the car to where it needs to be.

They don't want the exhaust exiting under the vehicle passenger area. The theory CO won't get in the passenger compartment if the exhaust exits behind the cab (trucks) or behind the rear axel (Cars).

Just take the car down to autozone. They will put their scan tool on for free and tell you what it is. That is the cheapest thing to do.

A deadhorse subject perhaps, but I had no idea until I tried to change my plug wires on my '96 Vette over New Years! A root canal would have been less painful.

In addition to JohnC's comments, I would think that some kind of shield (I'm thinking about some of those poly sheets they sell in the circle track catalogs) should be added to prevent the fuel cell from getting punctured by flying stones and what-not. I have one of the 5 gal RCI aluminum tanks and it is super light weight, just the ticket for my car - but I am pretty sure any road debris will puncture it pretty easily. Maybe it won't happen to you, but with my luck, it would. Once I had a small stone puncture a steel oil pan!

Haven't seen it, but it could have been undersize and it was knurled to increase the diameter?

I have two sets of insulators between the manifold and carbs - the old thick red phenolics and a new black plastic O ring set. Mine are old Weber 45 DCOE's. I wasn't getting vapor lock. And I couldn't reproduce the condition on the street or in the garage, I just couldn't run the motor hard enough or hot enough. The flooding only occured during competition, and only when I happened to stop on course or at the end of the course. My heat shield is nothing fancy - just a piece of .030 aluminum with the edges folded over and a longitudnal bend for stiffening just big enough to shield the carbs from the headers on an "H" shaped bracket attached to the intake manifold. It sure made all the difference on my setup. I'm just running the stock electric fuel pump (no mechanical) and a cheapie purorlator fuel pressure regulator on "3" without a return line. My carb setup requires very little fuel pressure.

Oh my. So there is a correct way and the customer way. Mere words fail to describe how completely twisted that notion is. I suppose everybody has some Dilbert cartoon posted up in their cubicle proclaiming all of your customers are morons too. It wouldn't suprise me. That's just how customers are usually treated when they call about a problem. I can recite story after story. Telcos, computer companies, car dealers, lawn and garden stuff, it doesn't matter. They are all out to part you from your hard earned dollars. Once that has been done, they could care less. In my experience, customer service has one purpose and that is to make sure you never call again. Oh and if anybody should be blacklisted, it is the companies that are sending the thousands and thousands of US jobs to India.

Absolutely necessary on my car - it has headers and triple webers. Without a heat shield the fuel will start boiling out of the carbs after about 30 seconds of hard driving and flood the engine out when idling.

More wheels .... http://www.ccwheel.com/ http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/ (not pretty but cheap) http://www.circlekarting.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CR&Category_Code=16

Maybe people would just rent for the bays, park an RV in there an live in the RV! I just don't know how y'all can make ends meet out there on the left coast with crazy prices like that. I guess the pay is a lot better out there or money must grow on trees or sumthing. I moved from a new neighborhood with the small 2 car garage on the front of the house to an old neighborhood with big houses on large lots and a detached garage out back that is big enough to hold 5 cars so I could have more room to work, more room for my cars. Now what I'd really like to do is to move out to the country and put up a huge metal barn on 100 acres and live in the barn, 1/4 for cars, 1/4 for music, 1/2 for people, or maybe the whole barn for music and cars and put a trailer next to it to live in. Help! I think I'm turning into a redneck!

Not bashing, just my .02. $300-$500 /month would be too high for me. I could build a brand new shop up for that that I wouldn't need to share with anybody. I started a similar business about 20 yrs ago. Painters wanted to rent the paintbooth, but most folks who came by just wanted to know if we could fix their car for them cheap, or weld something up. Maybe that's the angle you need to work for the business. Similar to beauty shops that rent stations out to beauticians. You rent bays out to self employed mechanics. If I had a lathe or mill or shear and brake or tubing bender, I wouldn't let anybody else use them. In my experience, that type of machinery needs experienced operators or they will be jammed up in quick order. You maybe able to put a lien on their car if it is in a bay to pay for damages, but what if the damages far exceed the value of the car? A brake lathe and a small hydraulic press is about all I would trust the average DIY person with. There are a group of guys here that rent a shop out for their race car projects, they are all friends and they pay about $70 a piece a month. I wouldn't mind sharing shop space and tools with guys like that people that I know well. But not with strangers.

I don't have any rotary knowlege. That's what he told me when I asked him why he was doing the swap. He's an automotive research engineer so I'm sure he knows what he's talking about. I don't think it HP motivated. The LS1 is going into his autox RX7, and car and driver were good enough driver to get TTOD and top PAX any time he felt like it (that's every event I've seen him in) with the rotary.

Strange world. I've got a buddy who is putting an LS1 into his RX7. Tired of blown apex seals.

I've always wondered what a chopped down 240Z would look like from the back. Now I know!

Cup Holders?