m4xwellmurd3r

so basically, load the trailer up, THEN check the tire pressure. right?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEtYbK2qC4g in an LS2 it looks like it does exactly what they say it does. 10hp over what they say is the "leading synthetic oil" and 14 over normal oil. that's very impressive for just oil.

if someone tried that with me, I'd "accidentally" pull the fuel pump's power as I got out (it's on a long alligator clip wire for anti-theft) the car will idle perfectly fine for quite a long time. plenty of time for me to get inside a building and call the police. by the time the guy tries to rev the car, poof it dies. Next reaction for them is to either try to start the car furiously, or run away. but man, I really hope you get your car back. From the sounds of it it's a very well known car. so yeah, it'll be hard to hide such a gem

actually, what I want to see, is someone build a car that looks like you describe, but with something like an SR20det swap under the hood haha. make it look as stupid as you can inside and out, but make it a beast in disguise

Yeah. you'd have to recalibrate your gauge to display the afr right. What the o2 sensor looks for is free oxygen, so as I under stand from what i've looked up, when running E10 at 14.13:1 there's as much free oxygen from the complete burn as straight gas is at 14.7:1, so the gauge shows up as 14.7:1 even though the true ratio is 14.13:1, which is why you should adjust the ratio by using the lambda voltage instead of what the gauge says, or something along those lines.

I forgot to explain that when running 14.13 on E10 an AFR gauge will still show 14.7 I've heard people saying using an O2 sensor to tune a car isn't as good as if you go by the Lambda values.

Exactly. you don't want to run 14.7:1 with E10 that is considered "lean" for alcohol. 14.13:1 is the E10 equivilant of running a car at 14.7:1 with gasoline.

it's not that it releases an oxygen portion (since if you compensated with making it richer, it'll release a proportionally higher oxygen "portion"), it's just that 100% ethanol's stoich ratio is 9:1. which is why you need to run a "richer" mixture than normal gasoline. Say you ran E10 (10% ethanol) its stoich ratio is about 14.13:1 gasoline is 14.7:1 so compared to gasoline, you need to run "richer" when compared to ethanol, gasoline runs "leaner" so if you kept the same settings and pumped in E10 your car would suddenly run lean. you'd have even more issues if you ran E85 i was looking at the wiki article, and when ethanol combusts, it produces water, co2, and heat.

well considering that he's using ITB's and such a beautiful engine bay, I'm sure he's running some sort of aftermarket ECU. makes sense to put the temp sensor there too.

that's what i ment about if you were to ease on the throttle. you'd see where the boost starts to build up in reference to the rpm. and there are plenty of cases where an engine can't use the boost from a turbo. if you suddenly let off the throttle with a stuck bov you'd get turbo surge, and the pressure would start to puke out the intake. and that high intake pressure, if is too high, without enough exhaust gases pushing the turbo, would cause it to surge as well. i can't remember the exact cause of that one, i think it can be a combination of things from an improperly sized turbo to a stuck wastegate. oh, what you described about the video is what i was trying to explain sort of. but what i know for sure is that if manifold pressure>exhaust pressure, than the turbo will stall/surge/bark anyways i'll be quiet now XD the only time really where you'd see turbo surge is if you have a stuck bov or no bov at all, and when you let off the throttle you'll hear that "wub wub wub" of the pressurized gas escaping out of the turbo's intake.

I was watching a dyno vid and you could hear when the turbo would surge. the engine rpm's keep rising, but the turbo sound (that nice turbo whine) started to stutter till the rpms got up a bit more, then the turbo would keep spooling. boost lag is responsiveness. as in, how long it takes for the turbo spool to catch up to the engine rpm. if you mash the gas up to the redline and it takes a couple more seconds for boost to hit full boost, that's lag. the opposite would be when you mash the gas to the redline your boost comes to full almost instantly. boost THRESHOLD on the other hand, is if you were to slowly ease on the throttle, and the turbo makes no boost until a certian rpm range. a turbo with a low threshold would be able to start making boost at a lower rpm range than a bigger turbo with a higher threshold. say, one turbo starts making boost at 3k, where a bigger one starts making boost at 4.5k surge is where the turbo is trying to push too much air into an engine that cant use it all. what happens is there is now more pressure trying to slow the turbo, than there is behind it (from the exhaust) to push it. it causes the turbo to stall and makes nasty noises http://videos.streetfire.net/video/True-Turbo-Compressor_163406.htm like in that video

yeah, it's possible to run much higher compression on something like E85, BUT if you EVER put normal gas in it, it'll knock like a bitch and hurt the engine. to convert an old car to use ethanol you need to get rid of any natural rubbers and gaskets, and replace them with synthetics that can handle alcohol, otherwise you get that problem with everything getting eaten up. ECU's definitely need to be retuned, but i really doubt anyone will do anything to help anyone get that done. basically, there isn't anything too bad about ethanol IN A CAR THAT IS BUILT FOR IT, except a slight decrease in efficiency. there wouldn't be a drop in power, simply because it was built to run it (high compression engine/high boost engine) oh well, we'll see how things pan out over teh next few years.

the turbo and n/a dished pistons are the same, but i think the turbo's got forged pistons. I know the cast ones are ok to use on a turbo, but you'd want to use the P90 head (naturally, better flow, and a lower compression ratio to help you on boosting it)

yeah. they don't really care about if older cars can use it. they only care about making sure that the emissions are lower. even if it is at the cost of engine life (fuel system wise) and since i doubt it'll change, and instead become higher percentages, it's only a matter of time before we'll have to change out lotsa parts to make them flex fuelers. Oh, otm i wasn't reffering to you about them damaging the engine, the poster above you did say that it could though. I think it's STUPID to have the 10% methanol at all gas stations. seriously. how many people own cars that can actually handle any alcohol? like, 5-10%? I mean, supposedly 10% is supposed to be safe for all cars, but whatever. just give me my straight gasoline please.

if there is ANY corrosion on the water temp sensor and the wires going to the ecu, the car WILL run rich and will have that problem where the wot enrichment causes the car to bog.

nah they use it because it's "cleaner" even though it kills gas milage. alcohol's burn cleaner than gasoline, so they're mixing ethanol with gasoline to try and reduce the vehicles emissions, at the cost of fuel efficiency. Oh, also, we don't have to import ethanol, we can make it here, so in a way it's also to try and reduce our consumption of imported oils. but who cares about that. with the way gas prices are, the decrease emissions isn't worth the decrease in fuel efficiency and horse power.

sounds like something is making your engine run rich when the tps goes to its WOT enrichment setting. Have you cleaned your water temp sensor?

that's a neat little car. nose seems kinda long, but nothing a big saw and some fiberglass can't fix haha.

higher octane doesn't damage it. Alcohol EATS natural rubbers, and that's what destroys injectors. the ethanol eats the orings and seals inside the injectors, and every bit of rubber in the car. high octane won't hurt a car, but running alcohol in a car with natural gaskets and orings will.

well that's neat if it was coated. I guess I'll find out for sure when I take the engine out for a rebuild. I haven't seen anyone coat the stock manifold before, guess there isn't much of a reason to. But I do know the cast manifolds soak up quite a bit of heat, so I suppose an owner in the past tried to keep that heat inside of the exhaust instead of radiating it onto the intake manifold *shrugs*

There was a VW guy that did that with his outlaw class bug. Worked REALLY good too. all he had to do was a quick spray of nitrous and instant 30lbs of boost. that's all he used it for too. just at the start so when he hit the 2 step he didn't have to worry about the turbo having to spool up or something along those lines.

seems to make sense. ethanol contains less energy per unit than gasoline (something like that, basically 1 gallon of ethanol will produce less energy than 1 gallon of gasoline) so you have to run richer to make up for the difference. if the computer doesn't know that, I think it would run a bit funny. not too sure how O2 sensors react to ethanol I just read up on some things. if you go from 100% gasoline to 10% ethanol the engine will run a bit leaner for a while, because the stoich of the 10% is 14.13:1 compared to the 14.7 of straight gasoline. Until the ECU discovers the lean condition and corrects itself it'll run a bit wonky. someone said it took 3 tanks of gas in their Evo before the ECU learned the correct values for the 10%

Invisible horse power you can have a car that power wise on the engine looks quite meek, but still have it kill another car with way more power just because it's light weight. it's actually the reason i REALLY like VW's for drag racing. my dad's NA 2332 bug ran a best of 11.96 at 107mph and only has about 250hp (wheel or crank on a vw doesn't matter too much haha)

i'm glad I have a 78 in the sense that I dont' have a voltage regulator. HOWEVER I do think my internal regulator is shot. (voltage tops out the little gauge in the dash, but I haven't checked with my multi meter to see if it's accurate or not. I don't see the point in doing a one wire setup. but at the same time, I don't mind having a few extra wires to hook up. The simpler the better, and keeping it as the multi-wire is the simplest thing for me. if I ever need a replacement I can just buy a normal style and plug it back in like nothing happened. BUT I do hate those fuseable links. i'm going to replace those with a maxi fuse box.

hmm I should do this with mine. It still ticks, but really really slowly. However, it could be possible that it's just gummed up bad.