m4xwellmurd3r

actually red, that's a very good point. the only reason why I'm putting up with all the things wrong with my 78, is because there is very very little rust, and whatever rust that's there, can be fixed with sand paper and a can of spray paint. the floors a big dome from someone bottoming out wicked hard, but there's no holes anywhere. so imo, rebuilding the engine, and putting about 1500+ into a car before I can drive it, is WAY worth having to do rust repair, when i have NO TOOLS needed to do rust repair (grinders, welders, etc)

that's my problem. I don't have another car. HOWEVER. I work next door, so I WALK to work (it takes LONGER to get to work by driving hah) which kind of sucks. I do have another car to drive (my moms) but I don't have another daily driver car. But I don't NEED a car. i'll figure it out. Maybe I can be an exemption. problem is once I do get my Z running and go back to school, there goes the 1000-3000limit per year.

well despite all the issues, be glad you're not me I have yet to be able to even register my Z since I've bought it (october 07) due to MANY issues. I had to rebuild the head (for way more than I should've, but had to) had to get new parts here and there, new battery, new fuel lines, vacuum lines, new afm. oh, and now, because the head is rebuilt, i need to do a bottom end rebuild because the rings are now shot. Oh yeah, and it over heats non-stop, but I think i finally figured out why. anyways, it's a love hate relationship, ya know? when she works you're happy, but then things get too good so she breaks on you so she can get new parts to be pretty, then you're both happy again. Glad to see you got rid of those venom injectors. I've heard NASTY things about them to the point that i'd say you're lucky your engine didn't get cooked by running them.

I've read quite a bit of what's here, so I do understand that right now my car WILL DIE no matter what big huge radiator I put in it, because the #6 output that normally goes to the heater core, has been redirected to go directly to the water inlet (just keeps pumping hot water back into the system and overheating the car) But from what I read, running it to the T-stat housing or directly back into the radiator would help cool #5/6 better because it's getting that water out of there as fast as it can? It seems to make sense. right now the water flows through the block, and into the head, and then exits the T-stat due to the internal bypasses. It seems to me that if you were to allow #6 to flow back into the rad it would help get that hot water out faster since it sounds like the flow back there sort of makes the water at 5/6 sit there and sorta swirl around and become really hot before it's able to get pulled out. am I right or am I speaking total nonsense and I should quite talking before I hurt myself XD

eh you could figure something out. but that's why I love arizona (but hate arizona because it's not excempt) my car was a non-catalyst Z. it has a resonator, but no cat

in my case I'm going to go with the MSA twice pipe setup and 3 to 2 headers (modifying them to be true twice pipes) i'm going with their smaller setup (i belive they do have a sizing option) and though twice pipes don't seem to be the best ideas (you lose the scavaging of 6 cylinders per pipe, to 3 cylinders per pipe.) I'm also going to try and improve the airflow through the engine. twice pipes will be the last "upgrade" on my super stock build (stock head stock block, untouched besides a rebuild, and try to get THE MOST power out of it, n/a by adding things like megasquirt, aftermarket intake mani, adjustable pressure regulator, lighter flywheel and damper, etc) I'm glad I actually posted something that was helpful for a change! and it was something I actually new stuffs about! haha

it's not a loss of backpressure that makes it not work as well, the volume of gas inside the tubes becomes larger than what the engine requires, which slows down the speed of the exhaust gases, which then makes the exhaust exit slower, and cool down. in a turbo Z, it's pushing out lots of hot air very fast, where the 2.5in exhaust would have a smaller area, with the engine producing a larger volume, causing an increase in pressure. increasing the pipe size maintains exhaust speed, and lowers backpressure, making it work better. it's kind of like a hose. take a small hose, you get tons of pressure, and high speeds, but if you try to pump too much water through the hose, instead of getting the most water out with the lowest pressure, you're just forcing a ton of water into a pipe that doesn't want it to go out. get a bigger hose, and now you can force more water out, with a higher flow rate. back pressure isn't good for an engine. but scavenging and exhaust speeds are. but at the same time bigger isn't always better. i hope i don't get killed by this post >_> the idea is to get the exhaust gases out of the engine as fast as you can. to do that you need a properly sized exhaust system.

haha I bet that was a shocker to get. "what the....I didn't order anything THIS small" *open box* "WTF?!?! Dude, those jerks!'" *set it out in the sun* "Whoa...that's freakin cool"

I was reading one of the cooling threads about cylinders' 5 and 6, then saw a post about what happens when you bypass the heater core the improper way. that is, unplugging both hoses and just hooking them together. Doing this causes the hot coolant from the back of the engine, to get recirculated back into the engine, without getting cooled. After pondering on that for a couple seconds, I face palmed myself for not realizing this would cause my engine to overheat like a furnace. Well, looks like I have a little work to do on my Z. and hopefully, I get to save money by doing this! as you can see, my engine has the exact issue stated. instead of the ports being blocked (and allow the engine to internally bypass and properly circulate) mine's only circulating nice hot coolant (note, this picture is wicked old. she looks much cleaner now in there XD) i could also use a handy list of special tools needed to do a rebuild on my engine. I've got a basic metric socket/wrench set up to 21mm, a breaker bar, torque wrench, feeler gauges. I know i'll need a set of dial calipers as well. What type of bolts hold the head on? same with the damper. if someone could PM me a list of required tools needed to tear down and rebuild a Z's engine I'd greatly appreciate it. I've got a 77 FSM but the tools they list are somewhat vauge. they state part numbers and names and a little picture, but nothing solid. (guess i should buy the "How to build your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine")

I think all RC parts are hard anodized whether they look like it or not (clear anodized) otherwise they would oxidize VERY fast. especially the engine components (like carbs)

i wonder if this is why my Z overheats o-O the heater core has been bypassed, but instead of plugging the line, the output from the back of the block hooks back into the water inlet. If this DOES cause overheating, well, i'm going to plug that thing ASAP. man, i wish I had thought of that before, but that does cause overheating. the hot water from the back is now being recirculated into the system without being cooled, causing it to continually increase in temp.

i would think a BMX bike would be more of a workout. ESPECIALLY if it's a high ratio long stroke bmx bike (like mine is) a mountian bike I can be lazy and kick it into a lower gear and cruise around effortlessly on a bmx bike, you can't do that. also, my specialized rockhopper only weighed about 15-20lbs (for a 26in mountian bike) and my Haro Revo bmx bike weighs in at 35+

I had a 62vw bug as my first car with a stock 1200. funny thing is, up to about 50mph it would BEAT most stock civics. they accelerated pretty decently up to 50, then fell on their face. don't have to worry about speeding tickets either. you're lucky to see 70mph in it haha.

google says 7kg/mm is 391.98 lb/in

wow~ that's insane. not only is that thing under $100k it kicks everythings ass on the nurburing AND on the strip.

I was looking for info on the 370z and found this http://www.blogsmithmedia.com/www.autoblog.com/media/2008/04/01_nis_360_des_study.jpg it's from Nissan 360 it's a sheet pulled against the car. look at the rim design. Look familiar? (if not, take a VERY good look at the silver cars rims) the body shape ALSO fits the silver car http://www.autoblog.com/2008/04/29/nissan-360-the-design-future-and-the-new-380z/ the orange car looks like a 350z that had panels mocked up. the silver one looks awesome. headlights are a bit funny, but it looks good. there's no way the orange and silver cars could be the same. just look at the body lines. the orange car has a horrible crease going down the side, where as the silver one has a very smooth body that flows nicely imo. I started looking at article dates. the yellow/orange car came FAR before the silver car. the picture of the car with cloth pulled tight over it came before the unveiling of the silver car. SO the silver car=new Z at least, to me and you know what, despite the weird fang headlights, i LIKE that silver car. it looks exactly like what the 350z SHOULD HAVE looked like. a modern take on a retro car, without looking retro at all.

I did a quick google search for Doug Nash T5 Transmission. haven't looked in much but there is a Doug Nash T5 known as the 4+1 with the ratios of 3.27, 2.13, 1.57, 1.24, 1

I hope the silver one is the actual model you can see a lot of differences between it and the orange car. the most noticable ones are the longer headlights in the silver, and at how the window beam frame thing of the windscreen (not sure of the actual name is of that beam) look how they joint in the silver compared to the orange. same with angle of the flares, the rear quarter window, and the mirrors. that silver version looks a LOT more like an updated Z car than that crappy orange one haha. comparing the 2, the orange looks like a 350z with mocked up body panels. the silver one looks sleek and agressive. the orange looks like it's retarded inbred cousin.

Roadrunner offers broadband now? o_O if you're on the wifi down at the bottom you'll see the little computer icon with 3 lines that flashes, mouse over that and it'll show your speed, and how good of a connection you have. and just because you have cable internet doesn't mean it's fast. it could be anything from 1-2Mbit all the way up to a 10+Mbit connection (which is what I have, great stuff for mass downloading)

Hmmmm so if your engine got damaged from improper fuel grade being pumped, would you be able to sue the oil company for charging you for a low grade gass when you pumped premium, and due to this, caused your car to go poof?

well below the boost threshold that car is running at 7.3:1 compression ratio plus whatever boost it's making at that level, so it will be a pig at that level. My suggestion, since you know the boost threshold, learn how to stay above it haha. there isn't really a "cure" to get rid of boost threshold. the best you can do is stay above it.

Actually if you go into the Fuel Delivery sub forum, and go to the Turbo Intake Plenum page, they have designed and built a plenum that in theory, should provide almost PERFECT distribution to all 6 cylinders. you should take the time to read the entire thread. there's a LOT of research that went into the final design that was built.

that yellow one actually isn't the real one. That one looks more like a concept rendering that got barfed on.

$23905.37 USD o_O that's INSANE I have a whole new respect for people who restore 432/432-R Z's with the original S20 engine.

and skyline GT-R engine if I remember correctly. it's up at 800000 yen which right now is $7803.20 USD which is insane, since the yen for the longest time was worth slightly more than the usd so, who else noticed the TWO other S20 engines sitting in the back?