m4xwellmurd3r

The LH2 and LC3 are rearwheel drive Northstar engines from the looks of it. the LH2 came out in 04 in the STS, SRX and XLR the LC3 came out in 06 in the XLR-V and STS-V but that's all they came out in it looks like...so that's a TON of money to put one of those in a Z (someone hacked the cadillac V8 wiki...i had to spend about 5 minutes to figure out how to get around the hack so I could undo the revision they made. stupid wiki hackers)

BAD AUSTIN! NOT Z ZUKE. it took me MONTHS to burn that out of my brain. Months and months and months and months and it was all for not. my brain~~~ it hurts~~ mommy!!!!

I took a closer look at the first 3 pictures. the first 2 are definitely these new "brake ducts" that they are being classified as. the 3rd, looks more like some sort of auxillary cooling fan they stuck on it. if you look close, the carbon fiber goes INTO the rim. if the rin were to turn, it would break the carbonfiber. The wheel covers seem to be some sort of loophole in the rules. they do have an aero advantage, BUT they are classified as "brake ducts" haha. the reason why they would be illegal. they are moveable aerodynamic devices. they can still move, since they're "floaters" and they do provide an aerodynamic advantage, and thus, are moveable aerodynamic devices, which are illegal XP Loop holes are fun.

so.....how much longer till we get tracks with upside down sections?

Haha, I saw a chevy silverado with JUST the escalade front end. no side trim or anything, JUST the front end. and some HORRIBLE looking rims on it too. he must've spent all the money on the front end and rims and gave up on the rest?

XD I live next door to work, but my Z doesn't currently run. Once it is up and running, I'll drive it all I want though. I don't need it for work. So gas prices to me, don't really bug me...too much.

I wonder if they think it's a saturn because of this?

the thermotime switch is probably busted if the cold start is kicking on when you plug it in.

Lol, i just remembered something funny. Glenn, my ex-manager (he quit for reasons unknown) is letting me keep my car at his house so I can work on it. His neighbor I guess saw me working on it one day, and asked Glenn what kind of car it was. He told him it was a ferrari, and the guy totally bought Glenn's story.

I agree with Tony. Something about boost+rubber hose manifold just doesn't seem to add up very well.

it's amazing how many people don't know about the old Z's though. most of the time instead of explaining it in detail I just do what you did Challenger and say " it's the 350z, 30 years ago" Oh, and speaking of Z pretender's, has anyone heard of a 3.1 N/A that can do 10 second 1/4 miles? some tard on youtube was saying that a stroker 3.1 n/a can do 10's if built right, and that you need a big rear end like a 5.xxx because "they don't make good torque" >_> a stroker that makes crappy torque, that's a new one to me. I really doubt a 3.1 stroker could do a 10, considering how our engines are limited to not much more than 100hp/liter

Hmmm bullet proof lexan firewall? it would be kind of heavy, since the stuff is an inch thick or more, but it's strong enough to stop a hand gun! It would make a sufficient firewall incase something went wrong lol

Man, the only time a kid ever mentioned anything about my car, was this probably 10 year old kid playing with his friends, saw me walk out of my apartment to do laundry and he told them all "That's the guy with the tight Nissan!" how did he know it was a nissan? I have no idea. maybe the kid's bright and knows that nissan=datsun? Oh, and I was trying to explain what car I had to a co-worker, and as soon as I said "Datsun" she went, "oh, those crappy econo-cars?" *facepalm* I said "No, a Datsun 280z, the first widely successful japanese sports car in the US" she just had this look saying she was totally lost. then I said it was the older brother to the 350z and then she FINALLY got that it's a sports car.

what's the resistance value of your water temp sensor. If by some odd chance, that wire breaks, the car won't get any fuel and won't start. A continuity test at the ECU will find that out real quick if you think your AFM is the culprit, just unplug it. the car will run without it, but the idle will be all crappy and pulsate. if that doesn't do anything, you can rule out the AFM being the issue for the most part. Another thing, is see if your injectors are actually firing when you crank it. a simple test light will do this. it'll blink if the injectors are pulsing at startup.

that's because the S130 is called a Fairlady 280Z-L in japan I found this little list showing the vin designations *FAIRLADY Z ( S130S ) - L20E engine *FAIRLADY Z-L ( S130 ) - L20E engine *FAIRLADY Z-T ( S130J ) - L20E engine *FAIRLADY Z 2 by 2 ( GS130S ) - L20E engine *FAIRLADY Z-L 2 by 2 ( GS130 ) - L20E engine *FAIRLADY Z-T 2 by 2 ( GS130J ) - L20E engine *FAIRLADY 280Z-L ( HS130 ) - L28E engine *FAIRLADY 280Z-T ( HS130J - BC ) - L28E engine *FAIRLADY 280Z-L 2 by 2 ( HGS130 ) - L28E engine *FAIRLADY 280Z-T 2 by 2 ( HGS130J - BC ) - L28E engine but that's the only reason why in GT4 they call it a Fairlady 280Z-L in the US, it's a 280zx. So yeah, I do get really annoyed when people call the american version a 280z. because it's not. it's a ZX

i thought they did make the 280zx in 78. the 280z ended in june, so wouldn't there be some late 78 280zx's out there? hmm...well, they were all probably titled as 79's if there were any...

that's possible I suppose. if the chip does indeed need to be insulated from the heatsink, arctic silver would conduct electricity. If you do want to use some sort of computer heatsink compound, I suggest using Arctic Silver Ceramique. for PC applications, there's only a 2-3C difference in temps compared to arctic silver 5.

lol neat, your 77's the same color as my 78. 517 XD I guess all the 517's that are around are all painted over.

there's a company in michigan that will do the outside of aluminium rims, but it costs a little more to finish the welds smooth. the place is called Weldcraft Wheels http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/ from the looks of their pictures, they do a really nice job.

I really like my stock rims, and decided that one day, I'll find a nice set of these and have them professionally widened. something like 1 inch inside and out on the fronts to bring them to 8inches, and 2 inches outside, 1 inch inside on the rear, bringing them to 9 inches. It can be done, but it's quite costly. Basically it would cost as much as it would to get a pretty nice set of rims. I was curious to see what they would look like if they were wider so I did a crappy photoshop to a picture I had. they look really nice actually. but of course, this wouldn't happen for quite a long time haha. not till it has a good running engine, coil over's, and money for new tires and the widening job. stock widened too bad it would probably cost anywhere from 300+ per rim.

I guess I'll post a couple of mine from the last time I worked on her. I like my stock rims haha. they need a lot of work though, and one needs to be replaced. Also, I think my tires are a tad on the big side, but the weird thing, my speedo is 100% accurate with the oversized tires. I wish I could've gotten a better shot of the front, but I was pushed back against a wall haha. Also, I really like the shot of the passenger front, except for her blemished sugar scoop XD Man...I really hope I can get her fixed on sunday. was supposed to go thursday but couldn't. Rad installation and a peek at the valve train to see what's going on with it.

I like the big tires. It's got a mean 60's muscle car stance haha. I know why it seems a bit awkward though. it needs 280ZForce's BAMF rear flares.

it's a torque tube. the driveshaft is inside. if you notice, all suspension components are ALSO a part of that chassis. so basically, the body is just bolted down to that to give it added strength. it's basically like the pan of the Type 1 VW bug. everything is there, except the body

wheelbase of that chassis is apparently 105.7 inches wheelbase of a Z 90.5 BUT wheelbase of a 2+2 102.6. I think someone should slap a 2+2 onto that chassis

not really. that may be so if the air going from the intake, was piped directly into the exhaust, but that's not how an engine works. on the intake, the piston PULLS the air through the intake ports. the higher the flow, the better suction it can get on the intake to get more air. then it compresses, combusts, then PUSHES the air out of the exhaust ports. the more flow the exhaust ports have, the faster, and more easlily the piston is able to push the air out of the engine. so intake flow is not really restricted by exhaust flow in the way you're thinking it does.