FlatBlack

I don't skate much anymore, I've got better things to do I used to ride behind a Fox Racing Tige', then a 210 Nautique. I'm riding behind a Malibu currently.

Nice find Dave!! I'll be needing one soon...

^ Werd

Back from the dead!!! The Brake Master Cylinder is also hydraulic... Did you not trace the path of the fluids to see where it was coming from? *edit* Ah he said inside of the firewall

Yeah - I've had the 78's slave go out twice, only had to pay for one of them I'm so sorry!! Pleeze forgive me! Heh just go look it up on the website or give them a call. The slave isn't a problem, but the Master cylinder, well, that's a whole 'nother story all together: You will need to transfer the rod that connects the pedal to the piston inside the remanned master cylinder, the one that comes on the A/Z unit is too short. Ask me how I know >_< I tried another CMC and a Stainless Steel Clutch Line ordered from MSA and it still didn't work until I swapped the rod. **edit** What??? You're sister's getting the Bob Sharp parts-loaded car?? I'll buy you a slave if you trade me valve covers!!!

I definitely have used 8mm on every slave I've owned for a Z. Couldn't hurt to bring a 10 though [Probably good to mention all my slaves have been remanned units from AutoZone with a lifetime warranty]

I'm not sure if I should answer this..... Mmmkay no flamage today. [bTW you really need to search and this should be in the TROUBLESHOOTING section] http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126151&highlight=clutch http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115090&highlight=clutch http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99785&highlight=clutch http://images.asc.ohio-state.edu/is/image/eHistory/images/section_logo_search.jpg The information is not hard to find.... Replace your slave cylinder first, it's usually the first thing to go out. It's about $15 at A/Z and takes about 15-20 minutes to change. If that doesn't work it's your clutch Master cylinder which is what you pictured. The slave is on the passenger side of your tranny on the bottom. You need a ??? mm to take of the two bolts that hold the salve to the tranny bellhousing and a 8mm to bleed it. you will also need a friend to help you bleed it.

Yes, I rotated it all the way counterclockwise - the best angle I found was 42 and +0 "I could get it to fire while holding the starter, it would go up to about 800RPM, then start to die, I'll put about 25% throttle and let off immediately, it would bounce back up to about 800 or 900RPM with the starter cranking, but I couldn't get it to do anything past that." That's the only way to keep the car "running" at all. If I didn't do that it would just fire up to about 800 then die.That's why the TP looks weird. I wonder about the dizzy because when it would come back down off of a peak [from 800 down to whatever] MegaTune would read a RPM of 1200 [or something not right] for a split second. I could try the AE table thing, but the spark plugs looked alright. Thanks for all of your help. Freakin' Z cars haha The worst part is I could hear the turbo spinning a bit when it got up to 800 or 900 RPM. What a tease!

Went out tonight, got some weird results. [i installed the transistors and I think my fuel is good now] I played around with the settings from letitsnow's MSQ. I could get it to fire while holding the starter, it would go up to about 800RPM, then start to die, I'll put about 25% throttle and let off immediately, it would bounce back up to about 800 or 900RPM with the starter cranking, but I couldn't get it to do anything past that. I played around with the settings for about thirty minutes. Before I left I pulled the plugs and they looked fine, not covered in black crap or anything. I'm assuming it is spark related now, I just don't know what to do next. I'll post my datalog, maybe the data can give some clues to what is going on. I'm thinking maybe my dizzy is bad? I have a Z31 turbo Dizzy off of a 87, I'll throw the internals into the 83 dizzy housing and maybe that will help. Please give me some input if you see something screwy here. datalog200908032053.zip

Drill it out and helicoil?

There is a bolt behind the oil pump [it's hard to see it if you leave the pump on] Don't forget it, I cracked a front cover once because I didn't get that bolt.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Xterra 2002–2004 Xterra was freshened for 2002 with a redesigned dash and center console, improved powerplant, and front end styling. The 3.3L VG33E V6 was upgraded to 180 hp and a 210 hp supercharged option added. The 2001 Xterra's restyled front end was grafted on to an otherwise unchanged bodywork. Drop that in with a smaller pulley and call it a day

It might help to know that I did not do the initial assembly of this board, but rather I had to go through it and find out what needed to be installed. Chris noticed Q10 and Q13 missing which is part of the flyback circuit. I was sold this as coming off of a 'running' car, but I'd pay $1000 to see a holset L28 running with a points dizzy off of that board like how I got it. The TPS input was wired into the switch, not the sensor etc etc. /end rant Chris has been my MegaSquirt go-to guy, I am the newb and he is helping through this. I got online tonight and found a Radio Shack in town that has the 2N3904FS-ND transistors in stock, so I'll pick them up after work and put them in after watching the latest Top Gear Hopefully we will have some good results tomorrow night.

Modifying them to fit in the car takes alot, plus making more power than stock takes alot. Go Small Block Chevy and call it a day LSX V8s come with over 300HP from the factory. Plus there is much much more support for the V8s into the S30 here [JTR, JCI]. If you're serious about making power, that's the way to go. [i apologize if this is construed as going off topic but you mentioned a motor swap]

Some people say they are going to buy things and then never come through, and cash talks. I've learned paypal is really great for this, you can just send money and pick it up whenever you can.

Never underestimate the ridiculousness of a PO. Buck and I picked up a 78 in Lafayette with a 4 Barrel Holley on an L28 and the owner's kid had thrown a rod and punched a hole in the side of the block. I'd say $200 or less only if it needed a bottom end rebuild. Did you ever do a compression test on it? I guess the mechanic did, can you ask him the numbers?

Thanks for the MSQ, letitsnow! Lots of progress tonight. Car is definitely trying to start, the best failed attempts [firing but not yet idling] were when we lowered the Req Fuel. I'm pretty certain now that the spark is good, [threw a condenser on and voila, spark] now I need to double check my injector circuits. I'm running 30# ford EV1 low impedance injectors off of a Mustang Cobra, MegaTune set the Req Fuel at 9.9 which seems proper, Mike's turbo injectors were at 12.0 Thank you for all the help tonight Chris, I kind of took up all your Sunday sorry!

:heads to shop: *edit* Didn't work. But, I did find out I'm getting spark to the cylinders. Still no spark from a spark plug, instead I used a bolt and got a orange spark from the bolt in the spark plug wire to the strut tower bolt when I held it about a 1/4 inch away. My friend is very convinced all I need is a condensor on the coil, I'm going to try that and if it doesn't work just move on to the HEI tomorrow.

I also had a hard time understanding the instructions in the FSM. Count how ever many links the FSM calls for [40?? I'm can't remember] from the notch on the crank and the notch on the cam gear.

Well the coil is sending spark to the distributor cap, I pulled the wire and put a spark plug on it and it was sparking with a purple spark. Thanks for the input, I picked up a HEI module today [DR100] so I'll be hooking it up tomorrow and see what's going on. I have dwell set at 6.0 2.6 and 1.5 respectively.

Couldn't help myself

Tony D said in that thread smokey posted that the A/Z HEI wasn't that great. I don't see how slapping on a HEI module would fix this, but hey, what do I know.

Those look like 35th Anniversary Z33 wheels to me...

That's what I was thinking, I'm not sure what I need to do at this point though. I have already re-set the dizzy to TDC. Is there no adjustment in MS I can make for it being out of place? I was thinking if I rotate the dizzy housing it should spark to a cylinder at least. The rotor arm is pretty big. I tried it yesterday and got nothing. Yeah, no spark on Cyl 1 so no timing :/ Thanks for your help though. I will do it once it idles. If it ever does. I didn't see what colour the spark was to the body, I could check when I go out tomorrow. Thanks for the link, Deric. Good read. Would anyone suggest just moving on to HEI or EDIS? It's not really in the budget right now, but I can make it happen if it needs to. More work less sleep [until school starts at least]. Thanks for all of your help guys, the Z has been down for a month now

I can't tell if you're serious or not. I have a "Ron Tyler" diff mount in my S30...