FlatBlack

Haha Here are some pictures of my T3: The wastegate opens at a certain PSI to stop over boosting/boost spikes/whatever you want to call it. It needs vacuum reference to do this. Once the WG hits a certain boost level, it will open a valve to let the exhaust gas bypass the turbine Does your turbo have those vacuum hoses?

Might want to read these, you can pull that exhaust stud out yourself fairly easily. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149606&highlight=broken+head+stud http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=148984&highlight=broken+head+stud I guess 225 for a valve job seems reasonable. Are they going to deck the head as well? I really don't think pulling the head in necessary for that, but you stated they are installing an MSA cam, and the head will need to come off for that.

This happened to me - my car was running lean. This is what I used to do to check how 'close' my AFM was to being at the proper spring rate: With the car running, I would open up the throttle body to half throttle. If you push the flap more OPEN and the car runs better, then you are running lean. If you CLOSE the flap more and it runs better, you are running rich. [bTW it's not very accurate, the stock EFI is rubbish] If this is the problem: If you have two AFMs, take one and adjust the spring rate by taking off the cover and loosening [be careful when you do this] the screw, and letting the spring loosen [or tighten for a leaner mix] itself a tooth or two until it is adjusted right. Remember to mark which tooth the AFM was on in the stock location for reference.

so, no vacuum reference for your wastegate as 240Zed said? Also you might want to check out Z31performance dot com or other Z31 sites. They are more geared to your chassis/platform and willl most likely know more about common isues with the VG30ET.

You can get rent Compression testers at AutoZone or you local parts store, you pull all the plugs and crank the motor over to test the compression per cylinder.

Can you keep your right foot off the pedal a bit until you figure out what's wrong? You don't HAVE to be in boost all the time Do a compression test, that will narrow it down.

Got one I pulled off my running 78 two weeks ago.

Okay, went out yesterday and hooked the ECU into the car. I now have an RPM signal in Megatune. The interesting thing - When I had the stim board hooked up to the ECU at Trumpet's house, I wasn't getting any values from the TPS at all. I spent about an hour testing the board for bad capacitors, etc, but everythign checked out when I used a proper meter. I got it on the car, and when I pressed the pedal my AFR gauge went really rich. Let the pedal up and it went back to 14.7. "That's weird" I thought. I went to calibrate TPS and voila! I have values! I hvae no idea what happened. I switched the gauge from AFR to TPS and now I have the Throttle Position function working. I need some help on my settings - I am getting Fuel and the dizzy is sending signal to the board at least to read RPM in MegaTune, but I don't have spark after the coil. We got a "weak" spark [as described by my roommate] from the coil to the dizzy [pulled off the coil wire], but there was no spark at the cylinders. I need to go read read and read some more abotu the MS I V3.0 Extra Code with 83 CAS dizzy settings, I'm pretty sure something is just messed up in my spark settings. If anyone feels like chiming in that would be nice I am running Mikeatrpi's tables and he is using a welded points dizzy, I am using a 83 CAS dizzy, I believe that is the most notable difference of our setups. *edit* Forrest told me to open up the dizzy and check to see if I have a rotor in there. Didn't think to open it :/

I'm pretty sure the norm is to lower compression to safely run more boost. The 8.1 CR might have been too high. If your timing was off much, combined with a higher compression ratio [not to mention the detonation prone L6] this could be your problem. Had you been running the meth kit before you toasted this motor? When did it start injecting? Details on your old setup might help you diagnose what went wrong

I've read here that you should match the HG to the block. If it is a 79 car then it should be a N42 block. The didn't go F54 until 81 IIRC. This is important, N/A F54s had flat tops, all other L28s have -10cc pistons Have you used your search function today?

Negra > Especial

Haha I told him to do that when I went over for lunch today

Put a picture up of the garage floor behind your pipe

Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge? Manual Boost Controller? My stock boost gauge tops out at the stock 6 psi

I have mine blocked off. No pictures of the motor together, but you can see the block offs in both of these pictures. P79 head F54 Block [Flat tops]

Me = circuitry newb. I apologize for botching the terms, I know it's important when describing technical issues.

My roommate [supra owner ] showed me this haha.

So... I got some time after work today to sit down and troubleshoot why I wasn't getting a Tach or TPS signal. Chris and I figured out the Tach issue and now the ECU is reading the stim board. Very glad to have that figured out. D2 was soldered on backwards and the megamanual said to jumper it if not necessary so I just clipped it out and jumpered it. I still haven't figured out the TPS circuit, but C9 and C10 were not showing any resistance. I'm going to replace those and see if I get anything out of the TPS on the stim board.

I miss my Z. I'm an idiot and can't wire a MS harness properly. [been down two weeks ]

It says in your sig that you have a couple turbo Nissans. Look at one of your T3s, there is a metal piece that bolts on the the middle of the turbo that connects the turbo to the oil lines. You just need to find that piece.

No problem man! Love your murdered out RB-Rs on your 2+2. I really want to shoot a colour very similar to yours if I ever spend some time fixing the rust on the body.

Oh the wheels. Nope Challenger, they are the RBs. 15x8s on Yoko 225/50/15s [i believe I stated it in the Original Post and my signature ]

I started a thread about putting a N42 on my Flat Top 81 ZX Motor and got told to search There are people successfully running this setup and said they really like them, but most are running hotter cams, and the "general consensus" [trying not to get in trouble] on here is that the stock EFI won't play well with cammed L28s. You are looking at around $1000 from what I saw to pump the CR up properly. [Valvetrain and MegaSquirt or something like that] Please disregard my newbish comments in this thread I was quite a punk: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139635

Heck yeah! Also usually listen to Jacksonville by Sufjan Stevens as I'm arriving to the destination after long road trips.

What are minilites? Had to open up the MS board and wire in some circuits the PO wasn't using. I installed the Flyback circuit for the low impedence injectors I am running, as well as jumpering the board to use MS to fire the coil off of the 83 Dizzy. I am waiting on the BIP 373 from DIYAutoTune, it should be here Monday. After that, I just need to solder that to the board and see if she'll fire. I took a cruise with TrumpetRhapsody yesterday after he got his car running with the Holset, man does it sound great. I can't wait to drive my S30 with a turbo...