speeder

Very nice, Mike! Sort of puts to bed that old urban legend that bigger cams don't help turbo motors, huh? If I remember correctly, TimZ got about 70-80rwhp improvement from a cam swap on his monster setup. The key to all of this (as in any cam selection) is that the cam is right for the application. In this case, the significant number I believe is that 114* lobe center angle. My new motor has a cam with similar specs, by Elgin, with just a little more lift, and it really seems to work well. I love to see scientific investigations like this - Rock On!

If this strikes a chord: obsession: continuing to pursue your original objective after you have forgotten what it was. –William B. Ruger, Sr.

The wheels in my sig pic are 17X9 and the existing 285/40-17s rub slightly on the IMSA flares. The 280YZ's will be perfect for the 10.5 X17s with 315/35 -17s. I've measured, and a test fit of the 10.5s with 315s confirms. My IMSA flares only yield a little more than 1" of extra width over the stock config, while the YZs add a true 3 extra inches. John at Reaction Research has reported that my kit has been shipped. Woo Hoo! Can't wait to get more deviated than I am now.

350Z diffs are R200s.

General "Buck" Turgidson:Uh, so let's get going, there's no other choice (Than to flare). God willing, we will prevail, in peace and freedom from fear, and in true health, through the purity and essence of our natural... fluids. I finally found the movie quotes from Dr. Strangelove, and have amassed a sh!htload of ammunition for snappy, preverted comebacks. Do it Tim! Moridin: I have 15X10" wheels for my drag radials, am waiting to get the larger flares done so I can see how big a Mickey Thompson drag radial (Height - and - width - wise) I can get under there. Looking at the 325/50-15.

John, I think the preverts have preverted your precious bodily fliuds, as evidenced by your small flared, small motored impotence.

John's Turbo Envy is well documented - Now it looks as if he admits to another inadequacy.

Huh?

The combo in my sig pic is 2003 SVT Cobra 9X17" with 285/40-17s barely covered by wimpy MSA IMSA Flares. I already have matching 10.5X17" with 315/35-17s mounted, awaiting bigger flares. (Insert Tim Allen "ooh, ooh!" here) Big flares with fat meats make the Z look muscular, IMO. I'm honored to have my car on anyone's desktop - Thanks for the complement.

I just ordered 280YZ Rear Flares (along with the complete kit) to get room for wider rubber. Obviously, my vote is .... Flares!

Hey, I changed my mind and want them back! .....J/K. Rears are 8.5X16, 1.5" negative offset or 3.25" backspace. Fronts 7.5X16 -1.5" offset or 2.75" backspace. Definitely not your off-the-shelf item, and out of production for 10 years or so. They look sweet on your ride, Mike.

Looks as if these flares are a bit bigger than what I need, and not quite the shape I expected (tapering in on front and back of the wheel well more than I like - They appear to have more of this taper than Oldestzguy's pics). Reaction Research 280YZ rears are the best looking to me right now. I was hoping to find rear flares that don't require rework of the gas door, but I'm now resigned to doing that. Sorry to drop out guys - good luck!

I've been looking for these flares also - I'll e-mail and commit for a pair. How many other firm orders are there?

Weld Pro Star 15" wheels fit the AZC 12.2" setup also.

I have about .200" between the bearing and clutch fingers at full retraction- I can reach through the now empty actuator hole in the Nissan bellhousing to retract the piston to check. The bolt on TOB allows adjustment in .200" increments by means of swapping pistons. McCleod says to set this clearance to .100 to .350, with total TOB extension capability at .850. Everything here indicates ~ .500" operating travel as a design target. I can't get back on this for a few days - family obligations - This is making me crazy. Delayed gratification is the operative description here.

jt1, thanks for that- My next move before taking anything apart is to get the required travel (spec?)from SPEC for my pressure plate. I'm kinda nervous about this setup - my T5 has a GM input shaft and requires a custom pilot bushing to enable a fit into the L6's crank - It was very carefully designed and machined. Can't imagine how some sort of problem there could cause this, but... It's really hard to assemble a clutch wrong but... I really hate working on clutches - Very hard to see what's going on in there and heavy wrenching involved to open it up to check. Looks as this is "probably" the last obstacle to actually being able to drive my new G-force T5/R230 drivetrain.

I have my new T5 installed with a McCleod bolt- on Hydraulic Throwout and SPEC "Super Clamp" dual diaphagm pressure plate and six-puck disc. The clutch shows no sign of release action. The retracted gap between the bearing and the diaphragm fingers is set within spec and my Tilton 3/4" Master is set for maxmum obtainable stroke - about 1". I seemed to have little difficulty with bleeding the system, good pedal. I'm seeing about 1/2" stroke a the clutch diaphragm looking through the bellhousing hole, no sign of bleed down with the pedal held down. This travel seems to be nominal for my setup according to the instruction sheet for the TOB. Just a question before I pull the transmission and clutch....Am I correct in thinking that the 1/2" actuation travel at the clutch is good?

Got this one: http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=30&m=b It's a compact version that gives clearance for the washer bottle.

Terry & John, Thanks for that.. Think I'll get the Tilton. I noticed from my research that Tilton does make an 11/16" cylinder - I'll probably go with the 3/4" - Just because I get so little clutch action with the stock 5/8.

I spoke too soon about the stock master cylinder working with the McCleod TOB- http:/http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100706

Well, I thought I had my new upgrade T5 ready to go - I have a McCleod bolt- on Hydraulic TOB/stock Datsun Master cylinder, good install with proper clearance between the bearing/clutch fingers, bled the crap out of it, good pedal feel, and I can see the bearing move through the old clutch lever hole in the bell housing as the pedal is pushed. Problem is that there's not enough travel to disengage the clutch. I know TimZ used the stocker Master with his setup and it worked... but looks as if I need the bigger Master. Anyone have part numbers for a 3/4" Master that will bolt in/ Be easily adapted to a 280Z? Thanks-

With the R230 in the raised position as I installed it, there is plenty of room for any bar you want. Check this:http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97369 You do have to notch the rear subframe of the car to get clearance above, however.

I am struggling with tool organization myself right now - Additional new roll-around, etc. and new sorting scheme. Got tired of loosing time looking for tools. My tool mangement habits have been so bad (until now that I have resolved to improve ) that I should not offer advice to others. I will follow this thread to see if I can learn something.

On my '78 daily driver I run an E31 head with an N42 EFI Manifold. All styles of 280Z/ZX efi manifolds use the same injector bosses and fuel rail mounting, although the stock fuel rails have had two different styles that I know of. To get the top four large bolt holes located, I carefully mounted the manifold by the lower studs on the head so that the ports were aligned ( with a marked-up manifold gasket) and marked the new hole locations. I then drilled and tapped the required holes in the head. At least two of these penetrated the water jacket of the head. This was pretty scary but I installed 10MM X 1.25 studs using JB Weld and this has held up for 7 years and close to 100K miles with no problems.