speeder

I use a BHJ Damper. Also a quality piece, SFI certified, reliable.

I use a McCleod Hydraulic TOB on my T5 - It is the bolt - on variety and bolts on to replace the input shaft's bearing retainer.My TOB is all aluminum. jt1, you are correct in your explanation of the "self adjusting" feature - I had to measure the depth required for the piston/bearing to protrude to be within operating tolerance, then select the proper length piston for the TOB to get this measurement right. It was very easy to bleed....and works well with the stock master cylinder on my 280Z.

I was over at another member's house today and he said, "I just saw your ugly mug on HybridZ." Mustang? What you smokin, Bro? The flares are MSA IMSA Flares - Wost part of the installation was cutting out the wheel arch area (inner and outer fender walls) and welding the gap created.Smoothing the area where the flares bond to metal is not too bad if you're patient and meticulous. The fender/ hood is the old Arizona Z Car one-piece front end. The vent panels behind the front wheels were part of the kit and probably the main reason I wanted that particular front end. Major PITA to install. Very thin fiberglass and poor fit. Knowing what I do now I would not do that piece again. Mercifully, they are no longer produced. Does give a nice smooth look, though. The side skirts are MSA, with the ends modified to flip out to connect to the flares. Rear wing is the old Kaminari 3-piece, no longer made. Oh yeah, the color is 1990 Z32 Pearl Metalic Dark Blue.

Definitely doable: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98599 I believe you could do this with any number of different (stronger) T5 centers if you can work the custom input shaft and output end issues. I "think" that the Nissan bell and tail housings will bolt to most T5 centers. I needed to have a custom pilot bushing made to adapt my GM input shaft to the L6 crank, also a custom driveshaft to hook up the Ford output yoke. A Clutch disc with a GM hub + datsun friction ring was easy to get made. Just goes to show that you can make anything fit anywhere if you're determined enough.

Joel, I'm interested in your R230 without the halfshafts . I'd like to get a spare to experiment with Armada 2:9X R&P for Silver State Challenge use. PM coming your way.

Just a quick update on my R230 install: It's all done. I was pleasantly surprised to find that my rear sway bar fits (Suspension Techniques 7/8" bar in Stock 280Z front mount location ) with no interference with the LCAs. Halfshafts are sitting at ~ 1-2* downward angle to the stubs on my severely lowered car with car static on wheels. Perfect! There is no interference with anything from my 3-1/2" driveshaft with Spicer 1310 solid u-joints- I highly recommend the method I used to raise the diff - solves lots of problems with the design. Well worth the work of notching the subframe. The only concern I have is the angle of the driveshaft from the trans to diff flange - looks to be about 4* to the right.. The diff flange and trans output yoke are shimmed parallel to each other and the same height. This is mounting the R230 centered on the redrilled moustache bar. I did this in conjunction with some other work on the car (custom gearset in my T-5 with Nissan bell and tailhousings - among other work), and will finish that other stuff in the next few days to be driving. I'll report back with results. I can't wait to bang on this setup without fear of breakage.... If I can remember to take my camera to the shop I'll take more pics.

As a Viet Nam veteran, for the last ~40 years I've been wondering how that traitorous bitch has avoided being prosecuted for giving aid to the enemy. Forgive her with a firing squad. Give me an excuse and I'll tell you how I really feel.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50466&item=4536342065&rd=1

I have noticed that the short - nosed, later style Nissan/Infiniti R200/R230 diffs have more teeth on the R&P for the same ratio that the earlier, long - nosed R200s. I wonder if the increased gear count gives more strength? I do know that it makes for quieter operation with less backlash... Ratio=R&P Count Long Nose 3:36 = 37:11 3:70 = 37:10 3:54 = 39:11 Short nose 3:36 = 47:14 (Auto 350Z R200 diff) 3:70 = 48.13 (300ZxTT R230 Diff) 3:54 = ? I haven't examined any Q45 diffs but suspect they will will have a 46:13 R&P ratio to get 3:54.

Here are pictures of the subframe notch from the Front: and from the rear: In this shot the Trans tunnel reinforcement for the top of the diff mount can be seen. Here's a shot of the diff installed. Finally in there for the last time (I hope) after lifting that big-a$$ lump in and out about 20 times for test fitting! Sure does look sweet with big CVs installed-

I used the Suspension Techniques 7/8" rear bar (Front Mount on a 280Z) with my 280ZX CVs, and promptly chewed up the boots by interference from the end links. Although it appeared they would clear, they do not! I got shorter bolts for the end links and eliminated the spacer in the center. This allowed the CV boots to stay intact and made no difference, as far as I could discern, in Anti Sway Bar performance. I'll be completing my R230/300ZXTT CV joint conversion soon, and will try eliminating the rear bar to see how it works. The 300TT CVs allow no space for the stock type 280Z bar. I'm advised that it's possible to tune around the lack of a rear bar, and I'll try smaller front bar, spring rate changes, etc.to get it right. I will report back on this.

Gongrats, Grandpa!

I think this guy is still pi$$ed about the 240Zs kicking 911s' a$$es in SCCA C Production back then. Curious that he's still talking about Zs after 20 years or so - Sounds like a deep seated trauma . Probably cheaper (and easier) to rebuild Z motor 8 times than to do a Porsche once. I'm a former 911 owner .......

Yeah Steve, I don't even tell the wife about lots of Z stuff these days... it would only upset her. "Nothing beats cubic money".

BBZ is correct. That thing raises the diff on the M-Bar, neccessitating a notch in the subframe above. The notch is just a section of the subframe cut out with a piece of 1X2 rectangular tube welded in with 1" side vertical, with some gussets to strengthen to "step" created. This gives about 2" more clearance over the diff. Sharp eyes will note that I have some ~ 1/4" thick washers (L6 crank pulley washers actually) between the M-bar bracket and diff. Forgot why I did this but made it fit better during test installation. If all goes as planned, final install will be next week, and I'll get pics of the notched area under the car. Right now there's a wimpy R200 obstructing the view. BBZ, I think it's very cool that you will retain the IRS on your big block car. As Scottie GNZ (Traitor that he is) has shown, the Z can be made to launch hard with IRS, providing you don't break stuff - and the R230 should fix that..

Here's what I have so Far: Pictures of the front mount: Made from 3/16" steel and roll bar tubing. Pics of the mount on the diff: And the whole setup: This shows the M-Bar spacer piece and the rear brace- Made from 1X2 rectangular tubing. Still need to add some gussets to that, but pretty much done.

Dat240zg, The front mount is mine - Ross borrowed it today for some measurements. He's looking into producing some front mount, maybe similar to this one. I'm sorry to say that the welder badly warped my perfectly fitting tacked - together mount ( It still will bolt in but needs some persuading with a big screwdriver as a lever) so measurements will be not-so-accurate for a production piece. I have to learn tig welding! My mount uses the diff strap holes in the tunnel for mounting to the car, but also has a top plate directly above and inline with the diff "ears". This bolts to a portion of the trans tunnel reinforced by welding in a U-shaped piece of 1/8" steel to take the upward force. The diff bolts into welded in nuts on the mount from the bottom of the ears, and is suspended by its bushings from the top. I've just learned this week that my CV axles are Ross's prototypes. As he has said, they can be used to make CV shafts that will work with any known 6-bolt flanged diff, R200 or 230 with the S30 Z's Stub-Stub width. I will try to center the cages in the housings before final axle build by trying different combinations of reversing/ flipping the cages. On a side note, I have raised my R230 on the M-bar about 1-1/4" by means of a bolted on spacer, and notched the car's subframe above to make room for that big-a$$ pumpkin. Had to do that to get a decent axle angle on my lowered car - another benefit is increased clearance CVs-to-control arms. I have not yet arrived at a rear anti-roll bar solution but am about to decide to get some slightly stiffer springs and go without it. I've had my driveshaft built using the Powertrain Industries 3102-42 R230 Flange adaptor and Spicer 1310 solid U-joints - should be sufficient to contain my turbo L6's efforts....... I'll take some pictures during final install, which "should" be in the next couple weeks.

People never cease to amaze me - Are we enjoying the sights and sounds of a boosted L6 on the track or are we having a technical discussion of the effects of video time compression? Or are we questioning the integrity of the person posting the video? My watch gives me approximately 20 seconds per lap, and the engine (whose fuel system I installed and tuned) sounds on the vid are just about how they are in real life. Also, viewers will note that voices sound normal on the vid. Anyone with the most basic knowledge of video processing knows that tonal characteristics of sound are preserved through even the most extreme compression. Only signal to noise ratio is degraded in the process. Reminds me of the time Scottie GNZ's drag video was questioned for the same reasons - As if Scottie would try to embellish his presentation! Lighten up, guys (Jon), and dig this vid for the cool (and genuine) thing it is.

"Sod off, Swampy!" -- Now that's one expression I've got to add to my repertoire. We had an incident here off Cape Canaveral where Green Peacers tried to disrupt a Submarine-launched missile test in that ratty ship of theirs - A Navy surface ship damn near sank the thing ramming it and shunting it out of the area. F'in tree- huggin morons.

I have gotten only good data about cyo-treating and plan to do a pair of 280Z stubs for my drivetrain up grade.

I installed a Nissan Motorsport clutch type LSD in my 3:36 - No prob. - Just exchange the LSD unit for the existing chunk and it's done.

We have two boosted Zs here in Merritt Island running these seals and doing flawlessly. I recommend them without reservations.

You must be talking about the custom T5 that was made for TimZ (and Me) - Tim posted some pictures. The rear of the ZXT T5 tailhousing was built up with weld so that it could be bored for a larger seal to clear the larger output shaft and a larger yoke.. That transmission uses an upgraded gearset with a Ford output shaft, supposedly good for 600+ foot pounds torque. Probably more than I can put on it with my L6. (Smiles)

Reminds me of the old joke: Q - What's the difference between a _____*______ (put the subject car here) and a porcupine? A - The _____*______ has the Prick on the inside.