speeder

Hard to imagine the owner with grease under his nails....

Speaking of learning curves http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=20227&highlight=

My speed controller is electronic - it controls the pump by pulse width modulation of the motor's supply voltage. The cockpit control will only provide a reference voltage to the remote mounted high current controller board. I have long suspected that optimum cooling does not happen proportional to crankshaft speed, and we shall soon see.

I have a CSR electric water pump , and at present am running it off a relay controlled by the E-motive's GPO output, being turned on at full speed when water temp reaches 50* C. This works pretty well - but my car has always had marginal cooling performance (big/thick IC, A/C condenser, and no room for a mechanical fan) - I know the problems are caused by the decreased airflow, but am looking to maybe offset this by optimizing water pump speed with an electronic controller. From my days as an SCCA crewmember/pit slave, I remember that we could actually get better cooling on the ITS racecar by installing restrictors in place of the thermostat, with the theory being slowing down the flow to keep the water in the radiator long enough to get optimal cooling. Anyone have any experience/ knowledge in the area of controlling coolant water flow? I think initially I will provide a cockpit mounted pump speed control knob, and just play with pump speed under various conditions until I can rough in an automatic control curve with a CLT sensor. I'll report results.

I've seen several CFDF setups (mine included) make hot spots on the flywheel like you've got. I think you should change brands when getting a new clutch.

This did the same thing (nothing) from my work computer - I made it play by clicking the "refresh" button on the browser.

http://johnkerryads.websiteanimal.com

Nice, Nice. I like the way you're finishing underneath - ("Cheek area"?) - That unibody on a stock Z sure is ugly....

My bad - I can't read .

Doug, My manifold's runners are 6-1/8" long.

That's the 77-84 Maxima motor in the US - There were a buttload of L24Es built.

I got my Supertrapp from Summit - I think that it is about the same as any straight - through muff (like Magnaflow) for performance. And you can tune the sound level you can stand by adding discs. Like I said, I changed to the Magnaflow just for appearance's sake, since in the end I was running it all the way open anyway - no more advantage to that design.

Doug, No mods, just redoing the throttle cable attachment. Clifton/Scottie, Thanks for that- my rears are wilwood 11.2s. I was beginning to think about some sort of non-street 15" wheel wth rims made of thinner stuff to clear. I think that's the direction I will go - 275/50-15 - I've obtained adaptors to enable a 5X4.5" bolt pattern, so wheels and tire choices should be plentiful. Style is really not an issue with race tires. Scottie, Although I've done very little racing (I've been around racing most of my adult life as crew/mechanic/pit slave), I've always had the goal of building a car for myself that does all things well. Thinking about compromises, If you can optimise the car for drag racing by a wheel/tire change and easy suspension adjustments such as camber/ sway bar tweeks, then back to street, then set for up roadrace/ autox just as quickly, you don't have to live with any half measures. The PITA comes when the setup for each use is difficult or time consuming. I've even had some thoughts about making a low- boost, high advance calibration for the E-motive that would make the car more manageable on a road course. Again, a quick and easy change, and just as quick to change back. I don't envision the whole setup process (suspension engine management) and taking more than an hour for any configuration. Good street manners and easy "configurability" have been the appeal of a well set-up turbo car for me. 10s? Let's do 11s first. Hey, i thought this topic was turbine housings!

Woo-Hoo! David, you're an animal! Second the Cool Car remarks.

Scottie, Seems that anything that gives more tread width will be an improvement on the 225/50-16s I have been using- but that 40 series is a really short sidewall. I haven't bought DRs yet- I may have one more go at trying to find 15" wheels that will clear my rear brake calipers. Enter the classic dilemma - What compromises are you willing to make to optimise the car for one form of racing? Doug, The manifold is at the welder's - I'll measure those runners and let you know when it comes back. They are at least 2" shorter than factory. Love those ball bearing turbos - maybe I should have saved some more $ and got one like yours.

Doug, No track time on the new engine yet - my day job and hurricanes have kept me from getting the thing together. Should be getting running in the next couple weeks. The new 3.0 has had those Total Seal rings changed out for chrome rings because of oil control issues, and will come alive wearing the new .63 StageV/T04R .70 (25% more flow than my old T61) and 75 # injectors. Got to update my website! Just can't seem to leave it alone! I also will be running 275/40 - 17 Nitto 555R DRs for tires, and am expecting tranny breakage. No offense taken about that weight remark - nothing that Mo' power can't cure.

If you had a nice turbo L6 you could do burnouts like- This (Takes a while to load, not for dialup)

I had a rather large hybrid that I could not control boost creep by the normal internal wastegate porting and installation of an oversize flapper valve. I use an HKS EVC-EZ Boost controller. Finally went to a 40mm Turbonetics Racegate and now boost control is rock solid. I can hold a constant setting from 8psi (the basic wastegate spring - controlled boost) on up to 20+ with no spikes or creep. I've heard of some who have made internal wastegates work at higher power/ flow rates, but that task whupped my butt. Here's what mine looks like.

Well, I survived, and so did the Zs and the house, sorta. I started building shutters Wednesday night, and the house was secured by Thursday afternoon. The Zs (3 including Ken's Blower 280) were in my shop jacked up about 2 feet in case of flooding. The shop building is pretty sturdy, with massive steel doors. The roof blowing off was a concern, and it didn't. We left Friday under mandatory evacuation of the barrier islands with the two dogs for a pet-friendly hotel in Kissimee. We rode out the storm comfortably- Returned Monday to find that a tree had partially blown down enough to scrape a bunch of shingles and tar paper off my garage, causing a minor leak into the garage. Played Ricky the Roofer Monday and Tuesday - was kind of anxious to get the roof water tight before more rain came. Got that done and started chainsawing to remove blown down trees. Today is the first one since returning that I've had a chance to relax ( = not do any back breaking physical labor using an out of shape 58 year old body) . I'm at Ken Jones' house posting this since I haven't had power since returning. Sucks because I can see the problem up on the pole- 15 minute job for the repair guys when they finally come. Thanks all you who called to check on me - I was too busy most of the time, and cell phone service was too clogged the rest of the time to return calls. Hope the other Central Florida Guys made it OK- Round 3? Ivan, just kill me now.

Quote from a local Jaguar mechanic: "Give a Brit a piece of steel and he'll do something stupid with it". I have no experiece with modern stuff from the British Isles, but a series of 60s BMC (before it was BLMC and whatever else it became) sports cars (which I dearly loved and enjoyed) introduced me to a new world of strange engineering, poor materials, and levels of unreliability previously unimagined. Made me a mechanic. My wife's beloved '87 XJ6 Jag continues that tradition. It's more like an engineering puzzle than a car. I think that well - made/well - engineered British cars are part of a recent phenomenon. That Top Gear boob made some funny points, even if some (most?) were pure BS. I've always been a fan of British humor.

Woo-Hoo! I just got power back! Really makes you appreciate lights and A/C when you've done without for 40 hours. Hope you Orlando Bros are back up soon.

That was a surprisingly nasty storm at my house - we saw 70 mph winds and I'm still without power at home ( I'm at work now). No big damage in my area. The Orlando guys (ScottieGNZ, Z-Gad, Jeff, 280Zen, 1SickZ,etc ) were the ones that were in for a pounding- I heard of 105MPH winds at the O-town airport. Maybe some of them can report in....

I just installed a system in my '78 daily driver that seems close to what you want. I am a wanna-be jazz/ blues bass player and need good, clean, non-boomy bass. I don't need a big cabinet in the cargo area of my grocery and parts getter. I took both the tool box cavities in back of the seats and sealed them airtight with a plywood panel on the top opening, then silicone caulked the interior seams. Foam was used in the connecting space between these two areas to isolate them from each other. I cut the round openings for the subs out of the metal fronts of the tool cavities so the built-in subs face forward toward the seat backs. I used 8" Polk Subs with 3/4" spacer rings (to give sufficient depth clearance) mounted into these built-in enclosures. The enclosures are filled with acoustic padding. I chose these subs because they will work well in a smallish (.35 cu. ft and up) sealed box. For main speakers I have Boston Acoustics separates -4"mid- 1" tweeters in the stock quarter panel location. I have a pair of Pioneer 1-3/4" tweeters mounted at the upper corners of the dash pointed up to reflect sound off the windshield for the front stage.High-pass capacitors are installed into these speaker wires to block low frequecies below about 2khz. My head unit is Clarion, and has a built -in lowpass/ high pass filter, directing low frequencies at a selectable lowpass point (I use 120hz) to the sub power amp and the highs above this point to the fader - controlled front and rear power amps. I have three stereo channnels of power amps ( one 4-channel and one 2-channel, by Hi-Phonics) of 100 watts RMS each driving each of the three speaker sets. 300 RMS watts at 4 ohms are more than sufficient for a Z. The power amps are mounted to the metal structure underneath the masonite rear deck board, out of sight. I have a remote - mount Sirius satellite receiver and a six- disc Clarion CD changer under the seat (both controlled by the head unit) that only skips when the car hits a bump hard enough to get airborn. This system gives the good clean sound that I need and is all built in. I have some fairly thick carpet/ padding in the car, probably could use some more acoustic padding, but it's good for now. Cost was around 1600.00 with careful shopping for bargains on name brand components and installed by myself. The best advice I can give is not to cut corners on your speakers, and avoid no-name brands of equipment.

Since the last one hs been produced, This is all academic now, but.... I got the first one of these manifolds for beta testing, and produced the data that is graphed on James' website and is referenced in the ebay ad. (Did any of you doubters look at those graphs?) We saw a .5 AFR increase (as measured on a wideband O2 meter) in the mid-high boost areas by substituting this manifold for a radically welded up/ported N42 intake, with no other changes to the setup. This is conservatively estimated to be worth 35-40 hp in a stout turbo setup with tuning to compensate for the extra flow. Looking at the squarish design with no internal horns, even James didn't know what to expect for performance - but the significantly larger ID'ed and shorter length runners, with the larger plenum, did give a major improvement. Appearance isn't always a good way to evaluate function, especially when you're working with airflow. But you can't argue with hard data. This intake is the cheapest 40 hp I've gotten. And the bling factor is off the scale. James, You da man.