speeder

Old Joke: Q: What's the difference between a (insert Corvette, Mustang, Supra,etc) driver and a porcupine? A: The prick is on the inside.

Standing by to help with startup...getting close now!

Pretty Scary. Y'all take care of yourselves, your families, and those Zs.

Hey Scottie, Did you need to use one of my big-A$$ Caps?

I have fan space envy for you V8 guys! The reason I am going this direction is that I have no room to install a thick/deep puller fan on my turbo L6 (yeah, I know:rolleyes: ), and need serious air moved to compensate for a large, thick intercooler and A/C condenser. But there's all kinds of room behind the IC and ahead of the radiator. I currently have an aluminum bladed 16" Flex-a lite fan as a pusher that is "almost" adequate. Anyhow, on my other daily driver Z, with no turbo, I use a rather small shrouded dual 10" pusher fan for cooling and this one works well with A/C in Summer Florida heat. No highway cooling issues either. I did initially have concerns about a front shroud restricting air flow. I'm familiar with the common wisdom that says that pullers are more efficient than pushers- I will get a Taurus fan and attempt to reverse the fan blade assemby, will report results.

I need a powerful pusher fan - and looking at Jack 46's diagram it appears that the Taurus fan has been used this way. Can anyone tell me how well it works as a pusher? Can you invert the fan blades to be efficient in reversed rotation or do they work as mounted going in reverse? Looks as if that curved blade fan is a directional design....

Drax gave good rule of thumb numbers for tuning AFRs. The other (important) part is advance curve - I always use as much advance as I can, up to 40* in places, while avoiding detonation. This is for power and economy.I have heard of some NA tuning that involves retard at high rpm/high load - My own experimentation on my Haltech'ed NA daily driver has been inconclusive on this. I consider a wideband O2 meter an essential tool - The EGT meter is just supplemental rough, quick-look "health" info for me. I really do like all the input available ( Have been tuning the 22psi load areas on my maps this week on the new 3.0 w/T67, will ultimately go to 25-26.). There are some people who have become quite skilled at tuning with EGT alone, but that skill takes much study and practice. AK-Z: The old (30mpg) setup had a ported N42 on the stock L28ET bottom end, moderate Isky turbo cam. Made 367 rwhp @ 17psi with a T61. New setup has a lightly worked P90 on a forged piston stroked 3.0, Largish Elgin turbo cam, 1mm oversize exhaust valves. Should be somewhere in the 425+ rwhp range. The P90, in conjunction with pistons made with D- shaped dishes to mirror the combustion chamber shape, has proven to be very detonation resistant. Beyond these observations, I will not get into any arguments over what heads are better:twisted: . There is no means for comparison of head performance on these two very different motors. Tony78: The narrow band O2 sensor does not have the needed range to accurately measure that range of AFRs. It is only accurate within about 1 point AFR on either side of 14.7. The O2 voltage method has been used successfully to get some indication of "rich" or "lean conditions while tuning. My new motor has been somewhat difficult to tune, probably because of the 780cc injectors:shock: . But it's getting there. No reason to think that it shouldn't have similar economy to the old one.

Hey, my spastic driving is a great equalizer....

Bring it on!

I got around 29-30 mpg at 80mph with my old setup - 3:36 rear, stock L28 bottom end, Electromotive TECII w/550cc injectors. I tuned for low-mid 15s for cruise AFRs while wtching EGT, which stayed around 1400*. This did not bother my cast pistons one bit. I ran about 40* advance in the cruise regions of the maps. Advance helps mileage. More advance will lower EGT, as will richer mixture. Seeing your 3.9 gear, you are pretty well tuned for mileage, but probably can improve some.

Hey Garrett, I could top that with several dumber things I've done, but I won't. . Glad you got it figured out. Give us Florida types a call when you get down here.

I'm not too familiar with the Nismo pulleys - the comp versions may be better than the stockers. The BHJ can be ordered with its matching trigger wheel, nicely slotted for fine adjustment and with good sturdy attachment hardware. The wheel is front mounted and requires a longitudinally mounted (versus a radial orientation) sensor. I have a BHJ damper in the shop now - and am building a sensor mount for a friend - will take some pictures & post in the next few days.

My crank trigger and modified front pulley from TEP were not the best- The trigger wheel was mounted one tooth advanced and the front pulley was modified so that it was effectively solid ( rubber bushed portion of a ZXT pulley lathed off to mount the trigger wheel). They did do a good job on the sensor mount, however. Most OEM Nissan front pulleys will fail in short order on high horsepower turbo motors. Probably the best route to take is to get the excellent BHJ damper with matching trigger wheel and make your own sensor mount. It's not that difficult to do with a drill/hacksaw/file. What Jon said - Make it Strong to prevent damage and to ensure stable timing. You will need none of the oem FI sensors.

No guts, no glory. I used to blow all kinds of manifold gaskets until I started doing it this way.

You guys make me feel like a slacker. All I have to do is install new, bigger flares for big drag radials and I feel like I'm thrashing. And the Porker will probably still be in black primer. You guys are animals! It will be good to see you there.

I don't use a gasket. I just make sure that the head and manifold are true and use a good high-temp copper silicone between the two surfaces. This does not burn or blow out in operation, probably due to the fact that the head is water cooled and thus helps cool the manifold flange that is directly in thermal contact with it. This thermal and physical contact reduces movement of the manifold at the contact surface by limiting expansion and contraction, also by providing a more solid attachment by eliminating the soft gasket. As always, any kind of upgraded stud or nut will be a good thing. However, I've always used the stock studs and nuts and found them to be adequate. Again, the head is water cooled, and I doubt that the manifold mounting hardware will see huge temperatures. The "no gasket" technique is an old turbo engine builder's method for sealing cast iron manifolds, and really does work for me. I would not try this on tubular headers unless they have a very substantial (thick) flange.

Who knows? We could be full of it!

Hey Scottie, I may have aided your achievement of the "distingushed road" with my contribution.

I could not find a current source for those adaptors..

I was wondering if there's a hole in the seat above the one in the floorboard!

I had no problems with exhaust clearance with my R230V install ( 3" exhaust in the stock location). But then my diff is mounted about 1-1/4" upward by means of a bracket on the M-bar and a notch in the subframe above. Maybe there would be some probs. without the raised mounting position. The R200V would provide more clearance because its a$$ end is smaller.

Comparison of a short-nose R200 (350Z Style ) with Z32TT R230. The extra 30mm size of the 230's ring gear is dramatically evident. Big files. http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/200-230-1.JPG http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/200-230-2.JPG

It is a viscous LSD.

MSA has a steel braided clutch slave line - the slave cylinder end is a strange metric fitting that Summit probably doesn't provide.

You need O-rings.