speeder

A properly designed water/alcohol injection system does not harm any engine, including the L Motor. Back in the days (70s) when I couldn't afford an intercooler I used water injection on my 280Z (Stock L28 with a BAE turbo Kit) - the only visible difference it made was that the chambers, piston tops, and valves looked brand new when the head was pulled to change a gasket.

I use adaptors similar to Joel's with no problems. I'm a convert to the "Shallow Dish" look (See my website for the old deep dish era) , and absolutely love the huge amount of wheel options afforded by being able to use the Mustang bolt pattern/backspace.

Scottie, what Water/Alky system are you using? I Have a "Cooling Mist" setup that I'm planning on installing on a friend's car- I'll be very interested in results.

I used an Innovate LM-1 to tune several Electromotive and Haltech systems and it has really worked well. In my turbo car, I have the sensor in pretty much the stock location (4-5" down from the turbine outlet on a non-stock downpipe)and have experienced no problems. I've interfaced the LM-1 analog output to my Electromotive TEC2's O2 sensor input, and now can datalog true AFR along with any/all measurements available to the ECU. This makes tuning stupid-simple with a programmable system. The LM-1 is a pretty capable data-logger on its own, but you have to have the optional "RPM Converter Cable" if you want the capability to record RPM and 3 more 0-5 Volt signals, such as MAP, along with AFR. The RPM Converter setup is non-intuitive and confusing, though. The Innovate software could be more user - friendly.

That FPR will reference fuel pressure to manifold pressure on a 1:1 basis (1 pound of MAP change = 1 pound fuel pressure change. If there is vacuum in the manifold, fuel pressure will decrease from the base setting (atmospheric = vacuum reference hose disconnected) , With positive MAP, fuel pressure will increase.

Cody, I've told you a million times not to exaggerate!

Wheels in my sig picture are replica 2003 Mustang SVT Cobras. 9X17, 26mm offset with 1.75" thick 4/4.5-5/4.5 spacer/adaptors. Car has coilovers and MSA "IMSA" Flares. Tires are Kumho Ecsta MX, 285/40-17 rear, 255/40-17 front. Sometime in the near future I will widen the rear flares to accommodate matching 10.5X17", 27mm o/s wheels. I have the wheels already, just have to do the bodywork (Yucch!)

Who was it who said, "Women should rule the earth. They control half the money and all the pussy." ?

http://www.autogainesville.com/wheel_adapters.htm Adaptors for anything to anything.

I have been watching this project with interest - I have an '89 Pathy and would love to do the same thing. Got pictures?

I use a TEC 2 with no IAC, and have the idle control set to use igntion only. It works really well even with A/C.

As I mentioned before, I used Valve Seal Pliers (Can't remember where I got them - (common automotive tool) to install them. I never had any problem getting the Felpro seals on straight, and they stay on so well that you destroy them if you try to remove them.

Dang, Z-Tard, I thought I was the only one whose car project had spiraled out of control .

I have just ordered some to use in molding extensions to my rear flares. This looks like just what I need - I usually use cardboard with a layer of wax paper over it for a crude mold for hand - laying cloth and resin. I'll report back with how it works as a mold for fiberglass.

I use the SSQV (not recirculated, MAP sensor) and have had no problems like you describe. Venting is sharp and instantaneous when letting off the throttle.

I've always used valve seal pliers. Probably can use a socket. Carefullly! Be sure to use the clear plastic valve stem covers to avoid tearing the seal on the valve stem groove.

Sorry to hijack, but... Dan, What are the width and offset/backspace of your wheels? I need more flare and am seriously contemplating the 280YZs - but am afraid they will be too wide. I want to run 10.5X17s. (Back on topic) This is great information if I do go with the 280YZ!

Here's another vote for wretched excess. Build your car with as much power as the driver and chassis (and wallet) can handle. Too much is about the right number. Keep that evil grin on your face as you jump on the loud pedal.

I'm starting to contemplate an R230 Conversion, and am doing research on the available ratios, plus how to identify which one to get. So far, I understand that the 300ZXTT were all R230s with 3.7 and some Infiniti Q45s were R230s with 3:54. Is this correct? Also, in my research I didn't catch how to determine how to make sure I'm getting a Q45 R230 instead of the R200 Variety ( Model, year, etc.)- Looking to have enough info to be able to purchase online. Maybe a good subject for a sticky. Rick

Cheap Chinese made 2003 Cobra SVT replica wheels.

Yes, they fit right on with no mods to anything. We don't have no steenking secrets!

This one is what I would buy if I was getting one now. 6 Channels in one amp, Low pass built in for the sub, plenty of clean power for a small interior.

Assuming you're not overpowering your chassis, tires, and brakes, (and you can upgrade those things) you can't have enough horsepower. A turbo car can be a mild grocery getter off boost (restraining the right foot) and a monster with a poke at your boost controller.

Norm, No issues at all. Since I made the last post, we have gotten kjones' blown Z running with these seals and it's been perfect too. I say go with 'em!

Take a look here. Similar to Hanns's setup, and he will make them to fit your application.