speeder

If you install a 280Z distributor in an earlier model Z you have to have some sort of ignition amplifier. The 280Z box works well, as does an MSD unit. If you need a diagram of the 280Z setup, shoot me an email and I'll send you an excerpt from the FSM that shows the hookup.

You need to be very sure that any resistor in the car's tach input line is removed and bypassed. I use an MSD 6AL with an 8920 adaptor with the 280Z tach on my car - the 8920 works with either white wire or magnetic triggering - its input connects to the tach connector on the 6AL and its output goes to the tach.

I have this same question, as I'm about to make a decision on a bore size for my stroker. Talking to my machine shop guy , he says that .200" minimum wall thickness is the rule of thumb. I'd like to hear some more input as to the size of other people's thumbs.

The MSD Boost Retard boxes incorporate a manifold pressure sensor that works to delay the ignition trigger in proportion to boost, effectively retarding the spark. They work with standard electronic distributors as found on the ZX -both turbo and NA types. I used one of these for years and it is effective in tuning a turbo car. Mudge, you are thinking about rev limiters dropping spark to prevent RPMs going over a set point, the BTM doesn't work like that.

The MSD 8920 tach adaptor is available from Summit or Jeg's.

That's the MSD 8920 from Summit or Jeg's.

You guys with strokers: Did you lighten the crank or do any extra preparation other than the normal magnafluxing, ensuring straightness, correct journal size, and balancing? The LD 28 crank doesn't seem to be much heavier than the L28 - if any.

I had a friend with a fast Z who used to call Porsches "Poochies".

This is all good input - Just what I was fishing for with this post. Thanks! I have just sent my LD28 crank out to be worked, have a set of 133mm race -prepped rods, and continue to think about pistons. In a previous search of the archives, seems to me that I remember that James 240Z Turbo went for the smaller bore also, in consideration of cylinder wall strength. Pretty sure 88 or 87.5 mm bore it will be, with boost being the equalizer. Don't you just hate how long the process of getting parts, then machine work takes? When I have time for a longer post, I'll entertain you with the story about how I destroyed 2 engines. Makes my choice of an avatar appropriate.

Thanks for that Rick - I suspect thet I have damaged the ring lands of the pistons, but the rings are still intact. I won't elaborate on the reason I think so, but just let us say that I wasn't too smart with tuning and use of boost on a set of cast pistons. The engine gets removed and torn down soon, and I'll post what I find.

I have the Weber 60mm Body and did just that- filled in the thin side of the manifold with weld and had the opening bored straight through. Don't know how much this gained flow-wise, but it looks right..... JB Weld works pretty well on aluminum - Good chance it would hold. This is not a recommendation, however.

The '85 vintage Toyota 4X4 truck 4-pot calipers are a straight bolt - in, and will fit inside stock size 14" wheels, as will the 280ZX rears with the proper bracket.

Check my website below for pictures of the Arizona Z Car Wilwood setup. These are Serious Brakes. Expensive, but worth it IMO. You should carefully check clearance between the front rotors and ends of the control arms - some grinding required on the arm. I also got some minor gouges on the rear rotors because some of the supplied mounting bolts were too long. You should check out Ross's big brake setups also, at.... http://www.modern-motorsports.com

I'm looking for maximum reliability as well as best potential for big power. Like all of us, I want it all! Data I've been getting lately suggests that those last couple .1 liters are hard to achieve. I really don't want to be changing blocks in my new engine - Looks as if the 88mm bore for a 3028cc displacement is the leading candidate for me- I still plan to get all of my F54 blocks sonically tested and use the best one.

My stroker project is about to get off the ground and would like to get some input as to the advisability of boring to 90mm. for a 3.2 liter. I'm using the Turbo block- I know the 89 mm bore is widely used and proven - I'm just greedy I guess.

You don't have to untorque the head to remove the cover. Usually you can get enough room to remove the cover just by loosening the oil pan bolts and lowering the pan a bit. Don't forget the two 10MM bolts holding the head to the cover in front like I did!

John, Joel is right - With experience you develop a feel for this. Usually the clearance decreases as you tghten the locknut, so you want to compensate for that. Another tip is to only loosen the locknut enough to move the pivot - Leave the assemlby tight enough so that it feels firm as you adjst the pivot. That way the clearance doesn't change as much when the locknut is tightened. And, sometimes the error isn't as much as you think. When adjusting valves I usually have feelers that are 1 over and 1 under handy - If the clearance is within .001 I call it good.

Mike, I was just trying to evaluate the prospect of getting the head sealing fixed and driving on the engine that's in there. I don't feel good enough about the loaner engine to do that, so I'll just pull it out and fix the forged motor. I still intend to solve this mystery, however. Will definitely look at those pistons for educational purposes. Yes, I'm starting to look for anLD28 Crank - If I need new pistons in the old engine it's stroker time for me.

Air is definitely leaking past the rings to the crankcase. When moving the rotational position, after each piston got past the "bad" point (TDC), the reading didn't change whether I moved the piston up or down. I also was thinking ring land damage, bot wouldn't that give the same leakeage at all points in the stroke? I suppose I'll take this engine apart and take a look.

I posted this in the troubleshooting board first, but looks like not too many peoply go there... While performing a leakdown test on an L28, I tested each cylinder at TDC, and got horrible (20-90%!) readings. I know that the engine is not that bad. Then, with the leakdown guage connected, I then turned the engine CW a short distance through TDC so that the applied air pressure just began to push the piston down. At this point, evry cylinder indicated less than 5% leakdown. I'm sure of my TDC position determination throughout this testing. 2 questions: 1. WTF!? What causes this phenomena? 2. Is this engine good? Thanks guys.

While performing a leakdown test on an L28, I tested each cylinder at TDC, and got horrible (20-90%!) readings. I know that the engine is not that bad. Then, with the leakdown guage connected, I then turned the engine CW a short distance through TDC so that the applied air pressure just began to push the piston down. at this point, evry cylinder inndicated less than 5% leakdown. I'm sure of my TDC position determination throughout this testing. 2 questions: 1. WTF!? What causes this phenomena? 2. Is this engine good? Thanks guys.

When running the 280Z Tach with an MSD ignition, sometimes the tach can be made to work by bypassing the series resistor , if present, that is connected from the stock coil - terminal (or whichever was the sense connection wire) to the tach input. The resistor is rectangular, about 2" long, black, and tied into the bundle of wires over the passenger footwell. If this doesn't make the tach work, then a Tach Adaptor, MSD # 8920 will be required. Every Z seems to need something different to make the tach work wih an MSD, but I believe these are all the possibilities. I've seen a 280 that didn't need any wiring changes to get the tach working.

Just when you begin to get cynical about people, there comes a story like this. Feels good!

I have converted the '77 Turbo to a Chevy 100 amp alternator. Probably a stocker in good shape on a car with good wiring and good fuse/ link boxes would handle the load with lights on - My '78 has 3 smaller amperage fans (all pushers -2-Shrouded 10" and 1-14" - in preparation or making room for a supercharger pulley) and the stock 60 amp alternator (actually an Autozone rebuilt w/lietime warranty) has held up fine. Cooling has proved adequate on the '78 also.

I have a pretty extreme cooling situation because of a big intercooler and A/C in Florida. I have a Perma-cool 19114 14" 2950CFM fan mounted as a pusher just behind the intercooler. This fan alone would probably give sufficient cooling for most applications, but I also have 2- Perma-cool 19010 10" pullers. A Painless Wiring 30103 sensor/ relay setup controls the big pusher, while the pullers are activated by the A/C clutch sgnal via a relay. All this stuff can be ordered from Summit. This setup was tested in 100+ degree weather with A/C blasting last Summer.