speeder

Holy Sheat, Batman - That looks wicked. Thanks Alan.

Hey man, those seats are no good - you'll hate them. I'll do you a favor and buy them from you cheap! J/K Those look nice.

I have 2 Zs now and shudder to think about my chances if I showed up with another one! Tim, you're a brave dude. My wife totally cannot understand my obsession with Datsuns, doesn't like to ride in/drive them, prefers her pristine '87 XJ6 Jaguar.

I'm at work now (2nd Shift at KSC) - If someone doesn't beat me to it I'll get the picture(s)posted tonight about midnight EST when I get home. I have to wait till then to see them myself!

No relays in the headlight cicuit - all current is routed throught the steering column switches, which are really old by now. I've had to do what Stony suggests - Flip the dimmer switch several ( maybe lots of ) times to wipe those old contacts in the switch. This will probably make it work.

Me Too - I wanna see. If some one else doesn't, and you don't mind, I can post pictures here. I think every Z gearhead has dreamed aboutthis setup.

Hi Mitch - You've come to right place - the membership here is probably your best resource. The books mentioned are all on my bookshelf, too.

High beams and low beams are on separate fuses on my '78 - Check!

Looks as if I've been freqenting the wrong parts stores. I'll check NAPA today. Thanks!

Anyone know of a source for aftermarket CV joints to go on the ZXT axles? If you've checked Nissan's prices you'll know why I'm asking.

Right, right is the passenger side of the car. I've also had CVs apart - as Blueovalz says, the acual CVs are pressed, then peened on. The boots' metal sleeves have to be crimped on. I was just talking to an axle rebuilder who says that there is a tool for this crimping. By the way, I'm looking for a source for replacement CV joints for the ZX Turbo axles. The factory ones are hideously expensive! I think I'll start a separate thread on this. Luigi, are you coming to the Reynolds SEZSII?

I'm still waiting for some parts I ordered from Scott on 12/24, and paid for with his requested Western Union wired money. Said he would ship on the 26th, didn't answer my e-mails for a week, finally did and said not to worry, having personal problems, parts coming, yada yada. Scott promised to give me a tracking number when shipped - Have not received that as yet. I'll keep yall updated - You can bet I'll make a lot of noise on ALL the boards if this is a rip -off.

You have to use the axles in their correct positions, ie, longer one on the right and shorter on the left - the short one will not engage the snap ring inside the right hole of the diff, and will come loose.

The machine shops I use were not able to find bushings for my rods so I sent them to JB Racing (Central Florida Race Shop) and Jim Higgs there pressed in bronze bar stock, then bored the pin holes in that, essentially building a bushing right into the rod, then drilling the oil holes. This was pretty expensive (about 50.00 per rod) so I think you should find a shop that can locate the bushings already made.

Been there. I first operated my '77XT with a T3/T4b (.63 SII turbine, 50 trim comp, internal wastegate) with a 3:90 rear. The car had a good feel to it, spoolup was super fast, but it didn't have the power I expected or achieve what I thought was enough boost for that setup.Boost control with my HKS EVC was effective and crisp. I then switched to a 3:36 I had laying around the shop and the car was transformed - boost in abundance! Problem was, now I had too much, and my smallish internal wastegate wouldn't keep boost from spiking. Spiking isn't the correct term, because boost would go to the desired setting,linger for a brief time, then climb right up uncontrolled. I had decided to go to a big external wastegate but before that happened stupidly kept tinkering with the car. One day while trying some hairbrained scheme (that I won't elaborate on because it's embarrassing to talk about)I spiked the boost in major fashion and after that the turbo was noisy and broke - (compressor surge?) I would have liked to see how the original turbo worked with the 3:36s and big Turbonetics Racegate that I installed next, but at this time I had Reed at Turbo Specialties build me what he calls a T61 - Essentially a T4 in a T3's body. After some (lengthy and tardy) warranty fixes to the turbo, this new setup is a monster. The big turbo has 12 psi by 3200 rpm in any gear,and boost control is rock steady, absolutely straight line at any boost level from 7 psi on up to about 18 psi. And there's lots more there when tuning and race gas permit. This has gotten a bit long -winded, but the point is, Turbo cars like the load characteristics provided by long gears. ( Can I have an Amen Scottie ) The bigger the turbo the longer the gear you need. I think I'm going to try to talk Ross C. out of those 3:15s he said he has. Also, I feel your pain, brother. Throughout this deal I've become a diff-swapping expert.And I've just pulled the diff again to have some LSD problems worked. Isn't wrenching fun?

A work of art, James. Can't wait to hear how the new setup performs.

I use an HKS SSBV - If in good repair these valves don't leak at all at idle. If using any BOV with the stock injection, you need to recirculate the BOV discharge back into the turbo inlet (after the AFM). I don't think the new - style HKS bov can be set up to recirculate.

Just found this thread as I was doing the CV conversion. Glad I did. I have a 77 280 with Suspension techniques 7/8" rear bar. Prior to shortening the sleeve on the Link from 2" to 1", I had about 1/4" clearance between the Sway bar Washers/bushings and the CV boot with the car on its wheels. It would come within 1/8" of the boot when the suspension was compressed (as best I could pull it down with a come-along attached to the lift while watching). After shortening the sleeve about 1", The link now doesn't come within 1/4" of the boot. I didn't eliminate the sleeve entirely bacause the link angle got weird looking without it. Just thought I'd ask if this clearance with the shortened sleeve is sufficient in you guys' opinion. I'm gonna learn to check HybridZ before I do any project - Whatever the job, it's probably been debugged already. Thanks,

I've had at least 2 heads straightened most of the way by heating, then made perfectly straight by milling the rest required from both top and bottom. The heating was done by the machine shop in a big industrial oven they had, with the head bolted to a heavy steel plate. Seems like they said that they left it in for a long time - overnight - at something like 400Deg, checking it periodically. This is a pretty common head reconditioning process.

I used the wet toilet paper today with a socket and it worked fine. Not as tasty as brown bread, however.

Great Info! Thinner friction discs from a forgotten box of spares lessened the breakaway force from ~ 100ft/lb to 50 or so. All OK now. Another example of how things get "de-mystified" once you jump in and do it. Thanks john.

I have an R200 with Nismo clutch -type LSD in my '77 Z that has started acting like a welded diff at low speeds. When turning there seems to be no differential action - tires making noise. The LSD has been in for about 3000 miles - The condition seems to be worsening. I use Redline lube with a limited slip additive... Wrong stuff? Or maybe an adjustment of breakaway torque needed? I'm really out of my depth when working with gears - Expertise, Please. Thanks,

This picture is looking up from the floor. In my '77, you have to lay on your back and look straight up at the steering column area behind the dash. The screws holding the relay in are f***'in hard to get to. This relay is a dual section one that also controls the fuel pump. Note the two plugs. Good luck.

My turbo's bigger.

If he manages to do this I want to hear how it was done!