speeder

Yo, rereading your post above, it reminds me of a problem on my 78 that drove me crazy. Sometimes would start right up, sometimes would grind all day and do nothing. Sometimes it would start after several on-off cycles of the key. Nothing consistent. After going through the ignition multiple times and finding nothing wrong, I then replaced the ignition switch on the back of the column lock. That did it. Turned out that when in the start position there was an intermittant problem with getting voltage to the ignition.

Tim, you're thinking of the head bolts, which are 12mm on the diesel. Since posting this , I managed to search on zcar.com and found that the Diesel main cap bolts do indeed have a "12" on their cap. I then remembered that I have a Maxima FSM laying around that gives torque specs for this bolt - 51-61 ft-lb. Still don't remember where I first heard about these bolts being an upgrade for the L28... but they do fit. I'm rebuilding a stock L28 turbo motor to put in the car while waiting for the excruciatingly slow process of getting the max effort stroker together -I had upgraded fasteners for everything but the Maincaps.

Diagram here Remember to disconnect the stock ignition box and remove the tach resistor. If you have problems sizing this for printing let me know - I can email it to you.

I have forgotten where I saw a reference on how to distinguish diesel main cap bolts from the common Z type bolts. I have some bolts with a "12" on the cap that I think designates the stronger diesel parts. Am I right? Also, anyone know the proper torque spec for the diesel bolts?

Thanks for that Mudge - I edited my post to include the 240Z info. When this discussion thread slacks off, I'll move my above post to a thread of its own.

Getting MSDs to work with the various modifications on Zs can be confusing. I have some experience with this and will keep refining this post until it covers as many of the different combinations as posssible. OK - Here's how I did the MSD6A in my '78: I used the magnetic trigger input of the MSD, hooked to the pickup coil of the stock '78 distributor. You have to cut off one end of the MSD-supplied cable and splice it to the pickup wires from the distributor. Connect the green wire from the diz to green on the msd cable, red from the diz to purple on MSD cable. The rest of the MSD6A hookup is per the MSD instructions. Now you need to develop compatible ignition signals for your injection and tach, since this signal on the stock setup comes from the neg terminal of the coil, and the MSD's multiple sparks provide false or no triggering of these devices. I used the MSD 8920 Tach adaptor to trigger the 280Z tach and stock injection - This module gets its input from the MSD's tach output (on the side of the box) and converts the signal to one that will trigger tach and injection. The tach adaptor's output is connected to the wire(s) that previously was on the coil neg terminal feeding the tach/ecu. On one 280Z I saw the tach did not need an adaptor (but did need the resistor removed) for some strange reason - it triggered fine off the coil neg terminal - but this did not work on my cars. One note - you usually have to take out and bypass the resistor in the Tach wire that originally ran from the coil neg terminal to the tach. This thing is located in the wire bundle under the passenger side dash and is a little black doodad about 1/2" X 2" and has two wires connected. Disconnect the two wires and hook them together. Autometer tachs will work straight off the MSD's side tach connector with no adaptor. Here's what we have: Carbureted with Autometer tach = no adaptor needed. Stock injection with 280Z tach = adaptor output for tach and injection trigger. Stock injection with Autometer tach = Adaptor output for injection trigger only. 240Z tachs are difficult to make work with an MSD - Most people convert to a 280Z tach. According to Mudge, the MSD 8910HSI adaptor is the one to use for the 240Z tach. I believe this is all relevent for ZX's also - I did the same stuff on my '77 when I was running a ZXT ECCS - don't know too much about ZX tachs, though. This is all valid for any MSD 6 series - A,AL,T,&BTM are the ones I kmow of. Hope this helps - I'll look up wire colors on the MSD and cars for you if you need more info.

You can use white wire from the neg side of the coil for triggering If you leave the stock ignition box in or hook your distributor's pickup coil into the mag input of the MSD, eliminating the stocker ignition. You will probably need a tach adaptor to provide a compatible ignition pulse input for your injection.

Shaweeet! I'm coming to see it this weekend.

Good to hear that you're up and running! I know first hand about delayed gratification

If the engine came out of an automatic car there is a spacer on the back of the crankshaft that has to be pried off. I can't remember if this will prevent the Pilot bushing from going in, but it definitely needs to be removed before mounting the flywheel for a clutch. The pilot bushing is a tight fit in the crankshaft recess and usually takes some firm pressure to drive in. If you don't have some sort of driver tool to do this, be very careful tapping the bushing in so as not to damage it. If the spacer is not the problem and the bushing is still too big for the hole, then you probably have the wrong pilot bushing.

Scottie, I wil second the recommendation of JW Performance in Rockledge by 74_5.0L_Z. These guys are one of , if not the best with racing auto trannys in the Southeast.

I have used Dan Bethea's tool and had to weld another 12mm nut onto the end - worked well except for that - I think I will look for the correct size threaded rod and use this idea. Excellent upgrade.

I think Curly would appreciate James' work too.

After every disaster I always come back stronger. In this case it's the excuse to begin that Stroker. The destructon of the forged pistons in the first L28 hurt - that was a really sweet motor. That one I simply screwed up on when I built the crank angle sensor. I simply counted teeth wrong on the trigger wheel while statically timing the setup. I was running 18PSI with no audible detonation and 11.5:1 AFR indicated on my wideband AFM. The failure came when I began to run more timing to try to improve spool up characteristics of the T61. Earlier, I had a failure in the FPR diaphragm that caused a lean condition, and that did produce brief audible detonation (I got out of it immediately). Maybe that was the start of the damage, but excessive timing finished it. This happened just as I was wrapping up preparations for the SEZSII. I did go to the Reynolds event the next week with a stock ZXT short block donated by Z-Gad - but I put an extra N42 head I had on this. That head was ported and had a good Isky turbo cam in it. Since my original head was an N42 , I "assumed " that the setup would be similar. Wrong! That one was excessively shaved. Again, no audible detonation and (with the timing accurate now) the car was brutal fast at 16PSI, but the cast pistons couldn't stand it. I will definitely have an EGT guage when I get running again. All of this is Tuning 101. Simple stuff, but I definitely have been humbled and re-educated by all of this. But give up? Nah.

See my post in the Datsun L6 Forum "Weapon of Mass Destruction" for piston pics.

Sorry

James, you're preaching to the choir Like Norm says, my problem is that I ASSumed.

Makes me want to touch myself.

Thought I'd share some pictures of some pistons I've known. My first ruined pistons from too much boost on my BAE turbo kitted '77. My education began like this about 20 years ago. 77 Piston A piston out of my brother's GN (This problem runs in the family) Buick Piston One of my forged pistons after running with 6* more advance than I thought I had (Electromotive crank angle sensor inadvertantly advanced by 1 tooth) This was last February. Note the piece of the 2nd ring jammed in the groove. Venolia Piston All 6 of these pistons from a stock ZXT motor customized because the head I put on that motor had been milled about .100 more than I realized. Motor had more than 1.5 points of compression more than I expected. This happened at SEZS II on the second pass. Ole Blue got me back to Florida! ZXT Pistons Finally, out of the above set, This is #6 piston with damage from a blown Steel gasket! ZXT Piston Like I said in my other post, damage like this is kinda fascinating after you get over being horrified. The moral(s) of this story? THINK! Recheck everything. Don't get in a hurry. These are all really basic errors - Every time (except for my brother - he's an idiot) I knew better. Yeah, I'm a Stooge.

Hi John- The clutch slave cyl hoses are the same between turbo and non-turbo manuals. Don't know the difference between the slaves other than the T5 trans slave will not bolt to the Nissan bellhousing due to a projection on the cyl's bottom. The Nissan slave will bolt to the T5 and will probably work.

Well, the engine is disassembled and the story is told. All 6 pistons have chunks broken off their skirts on their "load" side, allowing them to rock in the bores. Very ugly. I'll post some pictures soon - Once past the horror of the situation, engine damage is fascinating.

Beautiful work James - I too can't wait to hear how it all works.

I too am an admirer of the Scottie science of drag racing. Feel free to ramble and educate the masses. Sorry to hear about the breakage. I also know a guy who is into Corvette parts- Will inquire if you want. Looks like a good time for kludge electronics upgrade during the downtime - I'll e-mail.

Make sure that your crank angle sensor if '81 system (or distributor if it is an '82 or '83) is wired correctly. This problem sounds like no rpm signal to the ECU.

Yes - Take out the resistor. Probably needed when not using an MSD.