speeder

My late '77 had the FI relay mounted way up inside the dash near the steering column. It was hard to even see and a real beatch to remove. Possibly some '78s had it in this location? I'll try to scan a picture out of my FSM later. (I'm screwing off at work now)

I've successfully reused my HKS gasket 2 times - after the first head removal the gasket's black rubbery coating was coming off in spots, so I took some Scotchbright discs on a die grinder and removed all the coating until the gasket was clean and shiny on both sides. I sprayed the gasket with two thickish (not runny) coats of Coppercoat (Permatex I think), let it dry to a tacky state, and installed the gasket. I've had no problems using this technique.

The Camden supercharger mounts a Holley directly to its upper side. It needs a special manifold for the Z, however.

This one I can answer. You need to use the L24 rods with the L24 crank.

Ian, My '77 in the sig is a good example of what happens when you have more money than sense.

Oh yea I do remember reading somewhere that all L series pistons have the same pin height Sometimes I resemble my avatar.

Looks as if you will have to have custom pistons made for this engine due to the reduced deck height caused by the shorter stroke (79 - 73.7mm). The lengthened rods 130.4 - 133mm)won't make up enough of the difference. I get an additional -2.7mm deck height. Might as well get the correct dish along with the correct pin height, and make your new pistons forged, please. I have thought about building one of these things, also.

The front covers on all L motors are the same - as are distributor drive gears. You may have to install the ZX Turbo Distributor pedestal (that thing that mounts between the Distributor and the front cover)- seems like I remember some early NA motors had a different pedestal.

According to my FSM for an 89 P/F, Pin 5 of the ECU is the signal out of the ECU that triggers the coil's power transistor. Pin 3 is the the output of that transistor back to the ECU through a resistor. Pin 5 of the ECU appears to be the same wire that goes to the tachometer. Pin 5 would be the safest place to tap off a tach signal.

Thanks sag - Wheels are obsolete 1995 vintage HRE modulars, 9X16" rear, 8.5X16 front, all offset 1-1/2" outward to fill the flares. Spoiler is Kaminari wing, Flares are IMSA style, both from MSA.

Don't need no steenking heat in my (Central Florida) garage - I do have A/C, however.

I have the MSA complete system on my 78 280Z - Easy install, good price, and good performance. I believe that this same system fits the 240. The compressor is on the lower driver's side of the engine.

I used a 2-1/2" Supertrapp on my 77 ZT and it worked well- I gradually increased the number of discs until I ran that muffler with none at all on it. Even with no discs it wasn't too loud - had a good, deep (not raspy as on an NA car) tone. I finally went to an SS Magneflow for My 3" system (I decided I wanted a more "conventional" -looking muffler), but will recommend the Supertrapp for a turbo car.

I want to like this car, but I can't. The styling is butt ugly and derivative. Audi knock - off with Toyota headlights, weird rear end and gimmicky door handles. 3320 lb. is way too heavy unless you have Corvette - level horsepower. This is not a Z. I'll stay stuck in the 70s, thank you.

I Just noticed this post Great idea! I'm on the list.

I was looking with interest at those runners on an actual car a while back. The manifold below changes the flow direction 90 deg. to mate with the heads. Maybe its purpose is to lengthen the overall path from the plenun to the port? Truly strange design.

During assembly, I used a teflon sealer on the head studs after getting the threads in the block super clean - IMO it has to be something other than a head gasket problem because of the way it reacts or doesn't react) to pressurizing the cooling system with the test pump. Another weird symptom it has is that the cooling sytem never pressurizes itself as the engine heats up. While idling I can look in the radiator and see the water level slowly go down as it spits out the tailpipes. Looks as if you recognize this condition, Scottie - you have mail.

Not a Z problem (I wish it was ), but- I have an '87 GN with a newly rebuilt engine that is losing water.( can see it coming out the tailpipe, and if run hard water gets in the oil.) My question involves troubleshooting this problem - I have one of those pump type radiator testers with the pressure guage , and have pressurized the cooling system. It holds 17-20 psi indefinitely, hot or cold. I then bled pressure to about 5psi in the radiator, started the engine, and checked for pressure fluctuations on the tester guage - saw none. I see no bubbles in the radiator water with the engine running. I then checked every cylinder with my leakdown tester and found less than 5% on all. All plugs look the same - a little too clean IMO. Any of you know something specific to the Buick that can cause this problem? - I have limited experience with non- L6 motors - Or do I have a problem with my test methods? My first inclination was to just change head and intake gaskets, but thought I'd try for some expert advice before engaging in that PITA - the motor has head studs that make pulling heads not fun in the big Buick body. Thanks for any help,

Yeah, probably would be a shame to tear up a genuine Z28 motor - I'm looking to build one for forced induction with a 4-bolt 327 block and a forged 3.00 stroke crank, good rods, forged low comp pistons, alumminum heads w/ big chambers/valves. Probably be collecting parts for a while - credit this thread for getting me started. Hey, I could be changing the character of the 302 by going the turbo route, but I like several things about the configuration - notably the short stroke and the greater rigidity of the block with a smaller bore. Shorty, I certainly would like to see that monster of yours. 5k? Man, you got 2-1/2 (at least) more to go!

Thanks (If that's in order) RPMS - I too am recalling a drive in an early Z28. A proper sports car engine for sure. All this talk makes me want to start collecting SBC parts for a 4" bore, 3" stroke motor. There are two substitutes for cubic inches: boost and/or high RPM. My creation will have both.

A long -term daydream of mine has been to build a low-compression Chevy 302 as in the early Z28 and twin turbo that baby, then stuff it into a Z. The original 302 was a rev - monster. Maybe someday....

I've wanted to do a triple sidedraft blow -through setup ever since I've been working with L28 turbos. Very cool looking rig. Several companies (TWM among them) sell throttle bodies with Weber DCOE mounting flanges - Somewhat pricey (250.00 each the last time I checked). Don't know if the Cartech Mikuni blow - through plenum will bolt up to the venturi side of a Weber, however.

BLKMGK, I'm about 5 miles from Ron-Jon's. And you're welcome to come by. Pete, Good score!

If you're a 'doall' AND a 'fitall' does that mean you're well-endowed? Never mind.... I don't understand the other problem. I take people one at a time on their own merits as individuals, and ask that others do the same with me. The favorite people in my life have come in all shapes,sizes,colors, and nationalities. I promise you no one ethnic group has a lock on the bigoted/prejudiced title. 'Jaw, I had the car running pretty well with James' tuning recommendations ( my turbo has some characteristics of a 'big' unit and tuning is a little more critical as concerns spoolup )- I was playing with it on the way back from Montgomery when it just stopped making boost. Turns out that the butthead who coated the turbine housing allowed an excessive buildup (over .012") in the exducer area and as the new turbo loosened up it would rub slightly and hang. Turbo Specialties is re-machining the turbine housing and I should have the monster hybrid back soon. I'm really anxious to finish the setup on the car. If it works as well as I hope and expect you can believe I'l be posting about it.

Hey, Gad- C'mon over. I'm less than an hour away. I have in-laws here for this weekend and my annual Key West Duval Crawl next weekend(10/19-20), But after that weekends are clear. I'm free every weekday morning if you can get away - Shoot me an e-mail.