speeder

Lookin Good John!

Very,Very nice.

Your problem almost certainly is inadequate wastegate flow. I experienced severe boost creep with a turbo very similar to yours - the wastegate port on my internal was really tiny - about 1/2". I think if you port the wastegate and possibly get a larger swing valve your problem will be solved.

Hey, 'Gad, Good story - You got the old 280T screamin! See ya when you get back.

Mozilla Kicks A$$. The selective popup feature is nice and it's way faster than IE6. I was having a crash problem with IE that was infuriating. Tada! - My new browser.

I get the "nice Porsche" reaction all the time to my '78 daily driver. I have never thought there was the slightest resemblence. The '77 ZT with flared fenders, Kaminari wing, and slammed stance really befuddles most people. Niether car has any badges with the exception of the "Z" b-pillar emblems. Women like the '78 best. Think it's "cute".

Yeah, had to vent. No danger of a Buick conversion - the 3.0 L6 turbo stroker build is well underway. You gotta admire the effortless power the Buick lump makes, however. Yes, the freakin thing does have studs - I liberally coated the threads that enter the block with teflon sealant on both previous installations. (The first time I used Fel -Pro head gaskets and all the Buick gurus made the sign of the cross) I really can't see how studs sealed with teflon can be more leak prone than bolts...but then I've heard lots of people relate this same problem with studs. I have a set of ARP bolts that will be going in once the heads have been checked for straightness and pressure tested. Joe, your input seems to be the conventional wisdom. You guys would be proud of my homemade stud extractor used to remove the passenger side head - but still one of the biggest PITAs I've ever had.

But I like the engine. Ive been working on a Buick GN with water-out-the exhaust problems and am pulling the heads for the 3rd f'ing time! The car is so big and the motor is so far back and I'm so short - :flamedevil: This thing is worse than my wife's Jaguar to work on! Probably would be lots easier in a Z. Hmmmmmmm.

Now he invites us to the tower :flamedevil:

I use a fabricated fuel rail with a Paxton FPR. The stock regulator and rail should be fine for n/a work - I only upgraded mine because of the planned Camden supercharger install on the '78. The adjustable base pressure is handy, however. As far as I know, the stock regulator does not track manifold pressure above atmospheric..... Cruez, How's the Haltech tuning coming?

My '78 beater will be getting a blower as soon as I get my Turbo '77 going again - when money permits (sigh). I have a Camden Supercharger and Manifold that I got for a good price some time ago. I'm adapting the manifold for port fuel injection and using a billet 4-barrel holley - pattern throttle body on top of the blower. Looks bad-ass, but I don't know what to expect for performance.... I plan to run low (7 psi ) boost on an 8:1 compression L28 with Haltech F9 and Zx Turbo injectors. Like many here, I'm intrigued by the prospect of enhanced low -end torque in the L6, especially in a daily - driven streeter. I'll definitely post results when/if this ever gets done.

I carry a small compressor that plugs into the cigarette lighter for inflating my "donut". It's about 8X6X4" and fits easily in the area under the rear deck. Something like 12.00 from Wal Mart.

The part has this number on it: 30326 04158 22915 Numbers are arranged as shown in 3 lines on the label. I got this from TopEnd, ASSumed it is Turbonetics.

This what you need? Scottie, you have mail.

http://www.turboneticsinc.com If you make your own bracket to hold the actuator to the turbo you can get one from Turbonetics for about 1/3 the cost of the TEP one.

Scottie, I'll dig up that actuator tomorrow. You must get control of yourself, however. That MSBC-1 looks just like what you need - although I do think I could build a lo-tech analog box to do similar.

Scottie, I beleive that I still have that dual port actuator - Lemme know if you want it.

My bad - you're talking about the internal wastegate actuator. Turbonetics sells them too. That was the brand I got from TopEnd and was charged about triple for

Turbonetics does a mod to the GN Turbine housing which mounts a Deltagate directly. The flange is right on the housing. The GN I'm working on now has one - and it works well. I'll post a picture tomorrow if ya want.

My ring gear has 10mm bolts - fits in your garden variety Z R200.

I have a 3:36 R&P set new in Nissan box that I'm thinking about selling - I already have 3:36 ratio in my car, and picked these up from Ross C. when I thought I might need to replace mine. I paid 400.00 and would be looking to recover that...

Will your car run with the stock ignition setup? If so , then your distributor and coil are good. I would make sure of this first. Then wire it up per the diagram- You can test the added - on ignition system by pulling the plug wire out of the distributor and placing it close to a ground point, then- Disconnect the Mag trigger cable from the MSD. With ignition on, take a jumper wire and short the two conductors of the MSD's Mag input together. You should see sparks jump from the coil wire to ground when repeatedly making and breaking this shorted connection. Along with the spark , you should hear the injectors click every 3rd time you short the pins. If this test is good, then your electronics (MSD and Tach adaptor) are working. If there are no sparks, then the MSD is bad or miswired . If there are sparks but no injector signal, then the tach adaptor is the problem.

Good reminder - Zs don't give nearly the "crush space" that a larger/higher vehicle does. You would be not too tall but real long with a Z on you. I knew someone who was killed in a "no jackstand" incident and it was an ugly death.

Then there was the other time when the pickup coil in the distibutor was bad - another intermittant that drove me crazy. You might check the continuity of the pickup when in the "not running" condition. ~ 85 ohms is good, open is bad.

Yeah, I know, but the stocker is getting an economy rebuild with parts on hand. I'm conserving money for the stroker, which will have no compromises - and will have ARP studs. How's your new engine install progressing?