speeder

I had severe boost creep problems with a similar T3/t4e and a turbonetics internal wastegate. I don't know if there are different versions of this gate, but mine had ~ 1/2" puck. I went to a big external wastegate, but I've heard of others who have ported the wastegate and enlarged the valve to get sufficient control. Maybe someone can chime in with the required enlargement.

Time to close this thread, 'cause I'm no longer "Bummed!" Just tired. Just back from a test drive and the car kicks ASS! I'm pumped.

The retainer is deeper because thicker lash pads are required with that cam. As for Lash Pads, Isky's thickness recommendation should be a good starting point for the head setup. There was a thread somewhere on here lately containing a good explanation of lash pad selection. Nissan Motorsport has lash Pads - You might also want to give Dave at Arizona ZCar a call. I'll look up some URLs tomorrow if you need them.

It runs!!!! Sounds good, pressures and temps good, and doesn't leak a drop of anything. The cam in the car now is lopier than the other one... cool. I'll torque the headgasket tomorrow morning early and go for a ride. Friday night I'm going to get some sleep!

The engine is in the car. Hard day. Had to helicoil 2 studs on the head ,Took me 4 hours(!) to get the damn engine to mate with the trans/clutch. Anyhow, the car didn't run today - tomorrow I'll hook up electronics, water, and turbo stuff, then try it out. Took some time to check stuff today - found that my TECII crank angle sensor bracket positioions it 6 deg (1 tooth) advanced. May have contributed to the engine failure. I'm a little behind schedule, but still have time. Not a comfortable amount, but enough.

Engine is out of the car and all the parts to be reused are off. (All the "wet" work is done, thankfully) I'll build up the "new" engine tomorrow and install it - I'm taking 1/2 day off work to finish- I want to have it running tomorrow eve.. Hope to have Thur and Fri to debug and tune a bit. Not complaining, but jeez this car has a lot of stuff on it. My little buddy with the stripped - out, SR20DET powered 240SX calls it a "Pimpmobile". Still not near as cluttered as one of those modern things, however. Couldn't resist pulling the old head and peeking inside - The damage I saw was - none! No holes in pistons or scarred cylinder walls Looks as if a teardown later will expose the problem. Rings/Lands? Once more into the breech tomorrow - You guys keep the good Karma heading my way.

Looks as if the engine will come out tomorrow - I have the ZXT shortblock (Thanks Mike Gad) cleaned and painted, and my spare N42 head with Isky turbo cam ready to be installed with HKS steel gasket and ARP studs. Figure it's best to replace the whole engine rather than assume the original head is good, although I get pretty solid indications that there is piston or ring damage. This is going to be close, but I think I'll make Reynolds.

I want one.

Scottie, If the car doesn't make it it won't be beacause I didn't try. I don't see much of a problem, though - changed a few Z motors in my time.

Mike, You have mail. Thought I was thrashing before an engine change became necessary- Assuming the head is OK, Reynolds here I come! V8Dats, I'm about 3.5hrs away - near the Space Center. Come by sometime.

Hey, I'm now Speeder. Think I'll keep my logon name. Well, Leakdown in hole #3 is 40%. Probably a delayed result from severe detonation caused by my failed FPR diaphragm a while back. Thought I had lucked out. Motor comes out this weekend. If it weren't for bad luck I would have none at all.

Tonight was going to be the '77's track debut. Just got the rear end of the car back together with LSD newly set up, good CV joints, and drag radials. Datalogged the AFR versus manifold pressure and RPM on my "dyno" run up the Banana river bridge, everything looking good. Did a couple burnouts and leave 2 nice straight steaks of Nitto. Nothing breaks. Car is screamin fast. Threw my helmet into the car and left for work (2nd shift), plan to take off early and head to the track. At idle while waiting at a drawbridge, I look in my rearview and see big oil smoke. When I get going there's a puff of oil after every shift. None of the possible diagnoses are short term fixes - Looks like the car won't make it to Reynolds. Bad day.

Electromotive HPX

My wife has a pristine '87 Jaquar XJ6 and I have a JTR Jaguar V8 Conversion Manual. Hmmmmmm.....

Turbo Header Looks good,huh? I want one.

John, My cam is very similar to that grind (if not an exact copy) and I think you'll be very happy with it.

I just finished my CV swap about 3 weeks ago - the swap went really smooth with Ross C's adapted stub axles. My big problem was finding ZXT Axles in good condition. I bought 3 used sets (the sellers said they were "perfect" - Not! - then figured that I could have some rebuilt - Not!).- I could discover no source of replacement CV Joints and Nissan wants 150.00 wholesale for 1 Joint! Took 1 pair to the local NAPA who "rebuilt" them - came back nice looking with new boots but made big noise on the car. NAPA sells rebuilt CVs but their catalog shows both sides the same part, and I know that's wrong. Now I hear that it's really difficult to get quality rebuilt axles that will hold up to racing abuse. Finally I have located 2 new nissan axles for 200.00 apiece (List is 822.00!). Only problem here is that the two new ones turn out to be both RH axles. This far into it, I bit the bullet and bought one CV with unique splined end to convert a RH shaft to LH. May have to use the shaft itself from the used LH axle in the buildup as Nissan's fiche shows that the shafts are different parts left to right. I'll measure to make sure, and will have this all done next week. Like so many other things I've encountered in my Z (R&D?) project, I now know way more about CVs than I care to. Talk about getting the shaft! But now I should have good strong axles when done next week. I've been trying to get this thing to the track (Wed night or bust!) and big delays for simple problems are diving me cray-zee.

I'm 99.9% sure that none of the head bolt(stud) holes in the L28 block penetrate the water jacket. Sealing of head studs should not be necessary.

You're right - those flares are only called "IMSA" by MSA and others who have sold that style. I'm planning to try and install the ones similar to those you've shown sometime in the distant future to get wider tires on. That will happen when the car is repainted. I have really beat up this car with careless wrenching and stupid shop incidents. Looks good from 10Ft, however. I really do need to take some glamour shots - My photography for the web site has been crude to say the least. If I ever get some basic engineering problems straightened out, maybe the car will have some more photo ops.

Good news, Dood! Do some 's

Couple obvious things- Make sure the fuel pump is running and pressurizing the fuel rail - I use a hardware store pressure guage and a tee fitting between the filter and fuel rail. Fuel pressure should be about 43psi with the car not running and starter engaged. There is a contact in the air flow meter that turns on the fuel pump relay, which turns on the pump. Check that stuff if your pump isn't turning on. If you have fuel pressure, make sure your injectors are firing. If they are working, you can hear them clicking when the car is turned over with the starter by putting the tip of a screwdriver on the body of an injector and the screwdriver handle to your ear. If you hear no clicking from the injectors, check connections to the injector resistor bank and ECU.

I've just returned from ann unexpected 10-hour day at KSC working at impounding all the data generated during Columbia's processing for launch. I'm operations manager for ground telemetry and command systems in the Launch Control Center. The last time I did this was after Challenger's last flight and hoped I would never have to work that procedure again. I've personally worked every Shuttle launch and have been choked up with pride watching each one. This is the only country on earth with the will and resources to sustain such a heroic venture as manned spaceflight. I only hope that we can undestand the causes of this accident, fix the program, and go on from here. My heart is heavy with grief for the loss of those magnificent Astronauts and for what their families must be going through. I'm gonna get a couple drinks now.

The three guages in the stock center locations are Autometer 2-5/8" mounted in the stock guages' housings. The tach and speedo are a snug press fit in 4" pvc pipe sections (ID machined out slightly) glued into the stock holes. I did hit the dash with a hole saw for the Voltmeter, that small 2" guage to the left of the center cluster. You don't have to take the dash apart - just remove the stock guages and you'll see what's needed to install the new ones.

Looks as if I get to purchase Dan zthang's last tool. I suggested he make some more. Jeff, you will be more than welcome to use mine when you need it. Danno74Z, check your e-mail.

Oh yeah, the left hand connection to the coil in that diagram is the negative and right hand is positive. MSD SS is a good choice for a coil. We need less luck when we get the right help- This board has saved my sorry butt many times.