speeder

I took a deep breath and placed the order last week. My setup will include a hybrid R230 (Armada case/2.93 R&P with Z32 LSD input /output flanges) that has different mounting ears than the Z32TT diff so I will fabricate my own front mount. Also, I have raised my currently installed R230 diff to sit about 1-1/2 inches higher into a notched subframe, so I will provide measurements for Gabriel to custom machine the new moustache bar's mounting holes. Except for the front mount, I will be getting the complete Technotoy setup as shown above. Very pretty and beefy stuff, can't wait to get it. I also have some beautiful tubular RCAs (Thanks Dan 74_5.0_260Z) to install at the same time. Of course, I'll post pictures when it's installed. Since those 2.93s are way too long for my turbo L/ Gforce T5 setup, I'll use my existing standard 3.69 Z32 diff and make the new front mount for the hybrid diff when the Buick swap happens. (Yes, it really will, just don't ask when.) I guess all who are following this have come to the same realization: Making big power is the easy part - The real challenge is hooking it while keeping your junk unbroken. With my 325/50-15 M/T DRs and stick shifted ~450 rwhp/500tq turbo motor, breakage has been a regular occurrence, and I've been most worried about those wimpy stock size stubs. I'll be giving the new rear a good tuneup for things to come.

The above setup should work, but may not provide equal fuel pressure in the two sets of injectors. A larger capacity regulaor than stock may be required, or maybe a second regulator just for the additional injector set. That said, you can tune around any irregularities with the Megasuirt. Try Megasquirt's Staged Injection to control the additional injectors. It will decrease the primaries at the point (rpm & boost) that the secondaries start to operate, making a smooth transition. In the one case I used staged injectors, it worked perfectly.

The '85-'87 Buick Grand National has a a pretty cheap vacuum operated heater control valve with 5/8" barbs that could be mounted externally from the heater core box once the stock valve is removed/bypassed. I have always said that if my valves on the '77 and '78 needed replacement again, I would kludge that valve in and make it work. Dunno what could be done about the cable linkage from the thermostat and the capillary tube that does ?, however.

My '02 IS300 has some sort of hybrid -GE motor with -GTE internals. I'll report here when I find out the exact configuration. It dyno'ed at 641hp with a T66, -GE head with HKS 264 Cams - It now has a T72 BB, header, and sheetmetal intake. I like this motor's "quirks".

Mike, Did you somehow address the S30 stub axle strength issue? The Technotoy setup is the only one I've found that solves this.

Doug, The car's PO was not very technically knowledgeable and had some inept "tuners" working on it. It came having some problems, none of which I consider major but their combination overwhelmed the PO. It didn't run when I first got it - Someone had damaged a sensor wire installing that cool intake. I had it running in 30 minutes. There are also some very questionable mods done to it that I am having to correct/reverse. The battery actually is a decent distance away from the turbo, but I do plan on getting a turbine heat shield for it. I found a link to the shop that built it - http://www.bigmotorsports.com/projectcars/is300.htm - Looks as if the original work was pretty good (except for using the stock driveshaft:biggrin:). nbe, The GS is a customer car. My IS has the Getrag Supra 6-speed already.

That's the top of my Buick Stage II V6. The block is from the McClaren Indy team, Crank, Rods, Heads are from a Busch Grand National motor. My modest goal is to be able to turn the boost up and max out a Dynojet. It goes in the Z (If it ever gets out of the machine shop). I s'pose if the EEC system is doing the job for you it's all good - I understand the benefits, but losing the MAF is a good thing. I can't wait to see your setup in action when angry.

Wayne, You're an animal for sure! As 1TuffZ told me at Daytona, "I like your illness". I don't know how far ($) you're into your fuel injection, but a modern programmable EFI with a MAP sensor will probably flow better plus help with carb hat plumbing. There are other benefits also. Here's what I'm talking about - although it's just for a little V6:biggrin: 1600cfm Holley pattern throttle body, two 85-pound injectors per hole, secondaries staged to operate after a certain boost/rpm point. Eventually this system will be fed by two fuel pumps and two fuel cells, with the secondary injectors spraying C16. All this is easily controlled by an Electromotive TEC3r.

I have a GS300 in the shop right now that's had an engine fire and is getting a Haltech EMS installed on its Turbo- converted 2JZ. It's the same setup as mine, 2JZ-GTE bottom end with GE head. Looks like a good-sized turbo on it - It's a huge, heavy car - probably needs a stout motor just to get out of its own way. I'll report when it's done and tuned. I'll also be doing a 5-speed stick shift conversion from auto on this one. My IS's brake and gas pedals are not well suited for heel and toe - I might adjust the pedal pads to improve this. The Clutch and flywheel combo on this car requires some footwork skill.

I did discuss this with Technotoy and the answer is yes! A whole world of rear brake upgrades (all that fit Z32 and 240SX) will be available with this setup.

Well, I ran it hard today just playing around and broke a driveshaft u-joint. They did look pretty wimpy to me and in serious need of an upgrade, he says in hindsight. The car had a funny noise when downshifting and a small vibration that I should have investigated before getting too far from the shop. I don't know what kind of drag racer this car will be - it has a ridiculously light flywheel for a turbo car - But I will get a new driveshaft and go give 'er hell. Won't be tomorrow, however.

Exactly Mike - The guy I bought it from said that people (I assume the Lexus/IS300 community) are making big power with this combo - The GE heads don't seem to be too much of a downgrade... Yeah, I'm proud to be one of the local 2JZ guys...Talk about being in notorious company!

I should have thanked you guys first as I didn't follow the links. Tony, I take it back and give props to pop and deja!

V6 with twin turbos in an S30 - Now that's what I'm talkin about. Nice work, Austin.

Tony, Thank you sir. I knew someone would have already done the seaching to save my lazy butt the trouble. I have a good source for the heat tolerant corrugated sheath locally - a wonderful aerospace surplus store where I also buy wire and stuff. The tape is my missing component for professional looking harnesses.

I called Gabriel at Technotoy Tuning (530) 626-7334 - will be placing my order for the complete rear setup tomorrow. He has not been monitoring this thread (claims to be busy) , but seems to be very good to deal with on the phone. I'll report how this goes.

I'm very impressed with the IS300 platform, although mine is very much modified...Tight,precise,quiet (except for that obnoxious ricer Borla race muffler that gets changed out this week for a Magnaflow), lots of useful electric stuff. Handles like a go-cart. I'm still finding nice parts that the previous owner spent big $ on. I probably bought the thing for $.25 on the dollar for what it cost to build, one of those deals that just falls into some lucky dude's lap. It's got a TEC3 EMS. Big difference from the 280Z that I daily drove for 30 years. Gabe, that red one looks pretty nice. I'm sure it's not too long before it starts getting modded also.

Yup.

2JZ-GTE, HKS 264 cams, Ball bearing T-72, Os Giken twin disc Clutch, 6-speed,Turbo Supra Rear, Coilovers, HRE Wheels. Lots more good stuff. Comes with a 614 hp dyno sheet and that was before the big turbo went on! What a hoot this thing is! It needs tuning and other odds and ends, but nothing major.

Anyone have a recommendation for tape that will stay on when wrapping the corrugated sheath on a wire harness? I've tried most of the hardware/auto parts store offerings and have found them lacking.

Good work, John - Makes me want to get back to work on my junk and get it out to the track.

JBC, you have obviously gotten good service/performance from your LT1 ignition... Thanks for the info on the Acceleronics peak and hold driver - I have an immediate use for one!

This is a joint project - I did the engine management and Scottie's doing the turbo install. We're hoping low boost (7-8psi), careful tuning and alky injection will keep the stock internals together. That turbo is going to move lots of air even at low boost. The customer gave me a horsepower number and I sized the injectors accordingly, after asking, "Are you sure?" CAS = crank angle sensor, the trigger wheel and magnetic pickup. I would think that any system that gets the high voltage off the distributor would be an improvement, but maybe the Delteq doesn't preserve (or disupts) the original timing scheme. Those same GM DIS coils have been proven time and again to be able to support big power in Electromotive systems. Again, the Megasquirt, or any programmable EFI, is done because more fuel/air flow than the OEM system can provide is required. Its benefit over other systems that program the stock PCM is that it is user programmable (no PROMS to be exchanged) over an almost infinite range (including positive manifold pressures) to handle fueling for any modifications done to the engine. Looking at the cost of a new Optispark, and the trouble they seem to cause, maybe the MS would be attractive to the LT1 owner who has the skills to do it. There is definitely a learning curve for the first-timer, however, and competent tuning ability is a must. Unless an integrated setup with the fabricated crank angle sensor, wire harness, and precalibrated ECU are provided by a third party, This is definitely not a bolt-on system.