speeder

The Sanden SD5 series compressors work well with the stock 280Z AC. You can build a custom bracket or get the Motorsport Auto Kit for the 240Z - It will fit 280s. New hoses will be required, as the Sanden has O-ring fittings versus the stock flares. I just picked up a new, semi-polished SD-5 for $175 on ebay.

This hilarious. http://www.maniacworld.com/best-telemarketer-prank-ever.html

Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill.

Then you would have been one of those people staring in disbelief when I took a grinder and cut off the old rear flares a year ago. I must admit that I questioned my own judgement at that point, but am personally very pleased with these results, both visually and functionally. The rear wheelwells of the YZ quarters are built to accommodate up to 335 section width tires on 13" rims, which will be needed when the new engine is installed. Looking at the old body, note how the rear (285s) wheels/tires stuck out in comparison to the 315s on there now. The old flares only added about 2" to the overall wheelwell width. Although the Buick motor will have dry sump oiling and sit low in the chassis, I think that the hood cowl will be needed to clear a rather tall intake. The hood side vents were added to improve cooling.

The HOOD, The HOOD, dammit! You guys are disgusting!

Bunch of handsome doods, those.

bump. Still waiting for availability.

What a good time! The HybridZ'ers represented well - Great to meet you guys. My car had been back together for only a couple days and had issues preventing track use...but at least it made it there...

Sig Pics changed - note the 18X10 Saleen replica wheels with Toyo RA1s. Probably needs the coileovers cranked down some more, but that's my ground clearance stance. I do plan on headlight covers. The rear spoiler is Paulo's, much reworked. It was the second one I got from him - the first was very rippley, the second one was straight but very thin and fragile. It cracked along the rear edge just from normal handling. I reinforced the rear edge with resin inside, shot it full of foam, and then laid 3 coats of glass cloth for strength. Lots of work, but this is the only spoiler I found that looks good with the body lines. As to how well it works - that is yet to be determined.

Excuse the poor photography- Maybe someone at the convention will get some better ones.

Bump

Another trick is to retard your initial timing number. This slows your idle speed so you can set your idle screw for a bigger throttle opening. This will enable leaning out the idle mixture. I can idle my L at stoic with 75 lb injectors using this technique.

I have an E31 modified to accept the N42 EFI Manifold on my daily driver - works well with a 60MM throttle body and Haltech ECU. I drilled/tapped the head for the EFI manifold's bolt pattern (had to weld up where water passages where intersected) and carved out the injector spray holes in the ports.

My L Motor EGTs run about 1650-1700 - 3.0L, T66, 7.8:1 compression, ~ 20PSI boost, ~ 430 whp. I have not been able to decrease this with fuel or timing adjustments. I was alarmed by this number until hearing of others' results... I concur with Tim and others here that think that big cam specs are responsible for the higher EGTs. My cam is 274 duration/.515 lift intake, 266/.490 exhaust, 114* lobe center. I'm no cam expert, but believe that even with the relatively low duration and wide lobe center, the net overlap of the bigger cam is greatly increased over stock, allowing more "blow-through" of unburned fuel. I don't see much discussion of probe position, but my probe is located at the turbine inlet about 6" away from the nearest exhaust valve. My old BAE manifold appears to have shorter runners than the L28 stocker. Sadly, I've not looked at EGTs until my engine build has progressed to this point - I would have been instructive to see what numbers the earlier, milder builds would have produced, and what changes occurred when the various mods were done.

I saw a tee shirt that said, " If you ain't got a Harley, you ain't got sh!t." Hmmmm, let me think about that for a bit....

I got the LT-1 all ready to go with Megasquirt 1/V3.0/MSNS/EDIS - and all it does is sometimes fire once, then nothing when attempting to start. I'm using a Cadillac northstar DIS coil pack with the ignition modue removed and bypassed. Scoping the PIP signal, on the first couple revolutions of the starter there's a good square 12v pulse, then it goes to a ragged looking negative - going spike pulse from 12V to ~ 6v. The coils spark once when the the starter is disengaged, sometimes once on the first crank. Megatune shows an rpm signal for about 4 seconds, then goes to zero. Disconnecting the spout connector in the PIP/SAW line makes no difference in the scoped signal. Power to the EDIS module remains present during cranking, and the VR signal is present at the EDIS's VR + input. ( I did try swapping the sensor leads with negative improvement.) I swapped in another EDIS-8 module with the same results. Disconnected the coils and Megasquirt from the EDIS with the same results. The only thing strange I see is that I have some runout on the trigger wheel and the amplitude of the VR signal is varying about 20% as a result. Even at the lowest amplitude the VR signal is at least 3 Volts peak - to - peak. I'll be getting that trigger wheel runout fixed, and will double (and triple) check my wire connections, but does anyone have any insights they might pass on? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've done two EDIS -6 installs with no problems - and expected none from this POS, and it will be called that until it works! I'm taking the long weekend off from this disgusting problem, and will be back on it with (hopefully) a fresh outlook next week.