speeder

Losing sequential is not a significant loss. Losing the MAF = more flow. Depends on the skill of the builder/installer/tuner. Huh? Like,"Look out, dood, 7000 rpm! She's ready to blow!"? This is probably an expensive and labor - intensive solution to the troublesome Opti... But very economical when comparing it to "ready made" ECUs. Eliminating a distributor will result in the same cost for CAS fabrication no matter what Fuel management you use. In this case, the guy needs way more fuel and air than the stock system can handle. I suppose that programmable fuel management would mostly be considered by those who have modified their engines to the point of outgrowing the OEM system.

This is a project I did for a customer - It's in an '87 RX7 convertible that's getting a big turbo. Custom 36-1 trigger wheel and crank angle sensor mount, Ford EDIS Module, Megasquirt 1/3.0 MSNS, Gutted and rewired Cadillac Northstar coil pack, 65 pound injectors , no MAF or distributor. I would probably do the next one with a Megasquirt 2 to provide IAC control. Looks like there's some interest in this, so I'll do a writeup with pictures in the Megasquirt forum when I get time. I "could" also produce some to sell. Feels like I picked up some power with this setup - It's got crisp response and pulls hard up to redline. The Crank Angle sensor:

Megasquirt, EDIS, Cadillac Northstar coilpack. Sweet!

You're a wild man, Wayne - That's why I like ya.

It's a damn air DAM, damnit!

I'm using Delphi injectors from Racetronix. $59.00 each and they flow match the the set when you order. My idle pulse width is very close to the minimum controllable - about 1.3-4 Msec. If you go too low on this ( below what the injector can support) your idle will be unstable.

X2^^^^

The Wilwood "Q" compound pads tame that obnoxious squeal for street use also.

Air Damn.

Like when the 350Z was first introduced, I want to like the styling. but ugly is as ugly does. Maybe I'm just a dinosaur stuck in the 70s, but all of Nissan's current styling leaves me cold. This thing probably weighs 3500+ pounds. They totally miss the mark as far as I'm concerned.

I used to have a 3-wheeled engine stand that had a Vee-Dub bellhousing attached. With a newly rebuilt engine bolted on and with a battery and coffee can gas container I could run the engine to break in a cam, then let it cool down for head torquing before installation in the car. At first I worried about the torque from revving the 40 hp engine tipping the stand, but it proved remarkably stable. You should be fine with that stand. I'm thinking about making a test stand for my Buick engine out of angle iron, to run in the engine and also to mock up motor mounts.

Gotta love those naked butts. I'm going the shave the rear of my '78 dd, too.

Well, I made this harder than it could have been, as when I swapped the sensor cable during troubleshooting I managed to reverse the + and - wires. There is still a signal (the wrong one) on pin 5 this way - Double Doh! Maybe I shouldn't be telling of dumbass screw-ups like this... Scottie, I'm cautiously optimistic that it will be cleansed by the time you get it. For you others who are following this, Scottie will get the car next for the installation of a huge turbo. Power expectations are big - we're bringing it up with 65 - pound injectors:shock:.

Very nice, John!

Me neither.

Found it. The problem was a partial short form the - wire to shield in the cable to the VR sensor. Not a connection, it was in the middle of the cable. First one of these I've seen. I didn't think to check the signal on the negative side also - It's a differential input to the EDIS. "Doh!" he says as he slaps his forehead... The VR signal is about 5v p-p while cranking, and when the engine starts it goes to 16volts plus at idle. The misery with this car continues... when it finally started that was the starter's last gasp. Before I can continue tuning it must be replaced. This car needs an excorcism.

The VR output is 10V p-p, but seems to be bigger when the car runs.(?) I didn't know the zero crossing hysteresis level, but did suspect it is pretty small. That VR signal should be more than sufficient. I agree that the EDIS Module is probably resetting and will investigate that today. It's really strange that when the wheel and VR are operated off the car everything works, though. I did put a big filter capacitor on the module's power wire to no avail., and see no noise on the 12V line. Pete, ditto on good to meet you at the convention... It's always good to find another electronics geek:mrgreen:. I'm going to spend the day at the shop - need to get this car done - will monitor this thread for any more ideas.

I have been trying to work a frustrating problem with my LT1 with EDIS-8/ MS1 project. The car will start, run for about 1 second, then quit. Scoping the pin 5 VR sensor input to the EDIS I see about a 10 volt peak - to - peak signal, centered on ground. The edis outputs a PIP signal for about 1 second, then the PIP goes static. I have the spout plug pulled to eliminate any Megasquirt influence on the ignition module. I swapped EDIS modules and VR sensors out with no change. I monitored battery voltage at the EDIS and see a small drop while cranking, but it doesn't go below 10 volts. I took a spare trigger wheel and spun it at 200 rpm on a drill press, then cabled its VR to the EDIS and the PIP stayed up, and triggered the Megasquirt reliably. Note that this was with all wiring on the car as originally tested, just the sensor and trigger wheel substituted. The wheel and sensor on the car have no obvious problems evident (runout checked to be 0 and the cable substituted), and the sensor gap is set to .030. Are there any sensor/wheel considerations that may cause this problem? Nothing like something like this to make you feel stupid...A previous installation I did very similar to this one went off without a hitch. Can anyone tell me what's a good signal level from the VR sensor? I seem to remember that when the PIP was present the VR signal was higher, maybe like 16 volts peak - to - peak, then the signal dropped down at the same time the PIP disappeared. I'll go back tomorrow and measure the signal from the drill press wheel to compare. Any other ideas?

bump again.

That's what I was going to suggest. Whaddaboutit, Pete?

PWM is Megasquirt's way of implementing a "peak and hold" injector driver. All injectors require a big current to open initially (peak), then less current to stay open (hold). The Megasquirt's drivers allow maximum current on the opening ramp for a quick opening time, then reduces the AVERAGE current via PWM to hold the injector open. Use of the PWM rather than resistors will result in better control of injector pulse width in addition to protecting the injectors by limiting current.

I do. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97369&page=3 Also have an R230 with 2.93 gears ready for the Buick motor. (No overdrive in my NASCAR 4- speed)

I have an MSA system on my '78 and it's totally adequate for 100+ degree Florida days.