speeder

bump

Ross has chosen not to answer my emails and PMs on this subject so I'm looking elsewhere. I plan to do my engine swap sometime soon after the Daytona convention and would like to have the stub axle solution by that time.

I am firmly in for an R230/Z32TT setup also. I'll watch this thread for availability.

Same thing happened to me several years ago - #5, dropped intake seat, pounded back into place with only minor scarring of the piston. We redid all the seats in that head with some kind of upgraded parts that my machinist found (don't remember what kind) and it was good for as long as I used that head. Interesting stuff about cooling....

Za Linkenator!

Grumpy (Linkmeister), You the man!

See my edit above for the reason I had to go through this excercise. Just want to add: That degree wheel for printout that Grumpy gave the link for was very useful - My aluminum degree wheel is too big to fit on the engine in - car so I just scaled the online wheel to the right size and printed out, glued to poster board, and cut out.

The Optispark/stock ECU is out, Megasquirt/crank trigger/Cadillac DIS coilpack is in. This LT1 (Not mine) is getting 65-pound injectors and a big turbo.

There is no steel in existence that will not grind down when you run it over a 90 degree steel edge at over 200lbs of spring pressure.... I totally agree with the bad wipe pattern (lash pad selection) assessment. Iskendarian has long experience in L motor cams, and has some really good turbo grinds.

Actually I offered to loan NASA my engine to help get the Shuttle into orbit faster.

Got 'er done.

Betcha if you pull those two rockers you'll see that the cam lobes were wiping off the the ends of the rockers' contact pads.

This is almost certainly a case of wrong size lash pads allowing the cam lobe to wipe over the edge of the rocker. No matter what lash pads you are given in your kit you need to check/set wipe patterns with a new cam. Lots'o info on selecting lash pads is in the HZ archives....

I need to get the damper spot-on for an accurate ignition reference and also to get the balancing index correct. Looking at the damper balancing holes this appears to be an externally balanced engine. I already have it on #1's compression stroke, and am sure about the reference mark. Actually , I do have a piston stop and will use that. (Slaps forehead and says,"Doh!") Thanks Grumpy for setting me on the obvious path.

I tried that but couldn't get a good angle through the plug hole to feel the piston - used a long thin woooden q-tip stick. Maybe that would work with the header off?

Ive just built a nice Crank trigger'ed LT1 damper and, looking to install it, find that I should have made some reference marks before removal. There are no timing marks on this motor. And it gets worse-It has a keyless damper hub and from the looks of the balancing holes on the damper, It's important for balancing that it be installed at the correct index. It looks as if the angle is wrong to stick something in a spark plug hole and feel for TDC as the engine is rotated. Barring any suggestions for a simpler method, (and they would be welcomed) Here's what I plan to do: I know that this damper is installed with its pointed spoke at exactly 12:00 at #1 TDC. The crank snout has a keyway in it, although not used, it is in line with the timing sprocket's keyway. On the back of the damper there is a mark where the timing sprocket's keyway meets the rear of the damper. You can see the little square mark at about 10:00 in the pic above. I plan to make a jig to accurately measure the angle between the pointed spoke's center and the key mark's center. I will install a degree wheel zero'ed vertically, then make sure the engine is on #1 compresion stroke and rotate the crank until the keyway matches the measured angle from vertical. Now if the damper is installed with the pointed spoke vertical it should be correct. What fun it will be to get this alignment correct! Like I said, I hope someone has a better idea - And you can believe that there will be timing pointers made as soon as this situation is fixed.

My Buick V6 setup from Comp Cams will use their recommended beehive springs, (p/n26120-12) set at 155/375lb. Setup is Comp mechanical roller lifters, cam =.619 valve lift, .016 lash specified, T&D 1.65 roller rockers. This is for an 8000 rpm turbo motor. I've heard lots of discussion on the merits/disadvantages of beehive valve springs. I totally had to rely on the tech guys at Comp for this selection - (Mostly dealt with Tim Cole @ Comp) and will report on how it works/lasts if the motor EVER gets liberated from the machine shop.

No one has mentioned making sure your fuel lines and filter are not partially clogged. Debris moving around in the filter can make pressure unstable. Our cars are getting old and many of the fuel tanks are "fuzzy" inside. You can get rebuild kits from Aeromotive, also, that include a new diaphragm and all seals. There aren't too many things that could cause fuel pressure variations.

This conversion would need the Datsun top cover/shift rod assembly. You guys are right - All considered, probably too much trouble for a garden variety T5. I'll tell ya, It's a real biatch to realise that you've got lots more time,effort, and money to spend on your drivetrain after that kickass motor is built. Most people (me included) don't consider this until stuff starts to break.

Just to update - After going back to the original config, we found that the rotor was not making good contact with the cap's center tower. As soon as that was fixed, we got a big fat purple MSD spark at the plugs.

Aw Shucks. Of course it would be possible. This is HybridZ, where we make anything fit anywhere. That would be nice looking, in addition to offering an inexpensive (If you don't assign an expense to your labor ) upgrade to lighting performance. In the end, I just decided that I wanted to keep one of the most distinctive features of the S30 styling, while developing my car's overall persona - kind of like a pumped up mutation of the Z.

oops. No problems with oil temp so far - I do have a cooler ready if I ever do any extended road race time, however. Probably will not happen before the Buick swap, though.

The ZXT distributor installed in the stock position will trigger the MS about 60 degrees ahead of where the rotor begins to contact the corresponding plug wire tower. Perfect as-is. Use the Optical input on the MS for tach in, and use ignition out to fire the MSD. There are good writeups on the MS sites on using this particular distributor as well as MSD ingnition amplifiers.

The referenced "exotic" high temp copper silicone adhesive is about 5 bucks for a tube at any neighborhood parts store. I cut a soft fel-pro intake/exhaust gasket's intake sections off and glue them to the intake runners with Gaska-Cinch adhesive. Probably your run of the mill weatherstrip adhesive will work for this. When installing the intake manifold I coat the head side of the gaskets with anti-seize and have removed/installed the intake several times without having to change its gasket(s).

The transmission crossmember from the 280ZXT has a rearward offset, and should be used when putting the ZXT drivetrain (with T5 Tranny) in an S30. In my swap, using the ZXT crossmember and the T5 tranny mount still didn't line up perfectly. I substituted a stock front diff mount for the T5 tranny mount, with the two side holes slotted to bolt to the transmission and turned around backwards, then everything lined up. Also in my case I also had to shorten the ZXT driveshaft by about 3/4" to prevent binding. I learned this the hard way, ruining a tranny tailstock bushing and driveshaft front yoke in the process.