Nizm0Zed

i would imagine if you wanted to do it mechanically, you would use two physical characteristics. Centrifugal force, to drive the setup in relation to engine speed, and engine vacuum to adjust for engine load. as for sealing up the runner tubes, it wouldn't be necessary to do that, as its before the throttle butterfly, so its not metered air.

wow, we are getting off track arent we. anyways, heres a few links for you. http://www.gas-injection.com/ http://www.alternatech.co.uk/products.html http://buy.ecplaza.net/search/3s1nf20sell/lpg_injector.html http://www.keihin-corp.co.jp/english/products/4wheel/index.html http://www.gasresearch.com.au/ I seemed to get better results from google by using "LPG injectors" Instead of "LPG Injection"

lol, mopar, but it will. Innocent until proven guilty, (unless your a suspected terrorist, then our government steps in and changes the rules to suit themselves)

Haha, you have stupid laws (sorry) I was doing 160kmh along a 110 highway here once (someone mentioned young and dumb?) and had a cop go past the other way. we both saw each other, but he was separated by a fairly long line of trees in the middle of the road, i jumped on the anchors, and did the speed limit. within a few moments he came screaming up behind me and pulled me over. i claimed it wasnt me, that some idiot in a white commodore (VERY common car round here) went screaming past a minute or so ago. naturally he doesn't beleive me, and gives me a ticket, I go to court, and instruct my solicitor to ask the cop 2 questions. Q1. "How many white commodores of that model would you suggest that there are on the road at any given time" cop. "Probably a few thousand" Q2."Did you, at any time from the start of the pursuit, to pulling over my client, lose sight of the vehicle in question?" cop. (hesitates at question) "yes, i did. but i know it was him" solicitor responds "so with out any reasonable doubt, how can you know that my client was speeding at all?" the judge stopped it all there, as everyone realised the cop couldn't prove a thing. wooo, no big fine for me:mrgreen: (i have slowed down a lot since then) If that bloke is smart, and gets a good lawyer, there is quite a few angles he can use to get away with it. nameley, how can you prove that a copy of the original video, from the internet, hasn't been digitally altered to include details to make it seem real?

i see your second, and call for a scale, fully working S30 for it to sit in, and drive

x2. also, when your on a track, at least everyone is going int eh same direction, and (hopefully) at roughly the same speed.

maybe he doesn't feel the need. after all, HE was the one piloting it on a mid 10 second pass.

What? LPG isnt a common thing over there?? We have a pretty large amount of cars running LPG over here, pretty much all taxis, and a LOT of couriers are all dual fuel cars. dedicated LPG isnt as common though, strangely enough.

thats a Honda accord Euro over here in the real world, But yea, real nice cars, very quick for what they are, handle well, extremely comfortable. I used to do the dealer checks on them before we sold them. they 4 cyl engines over in the states????

thanks for the link, yea i will eventually route the fuel return directly to the tank, but having the surge tank in the bay, and keeping the SU's fitted keeps it driveable as a daily, while still allowing me to easily switch over for tuning, and not be stuck walking 40kms to work. also, by keeping the carbs in place, for the initial setup and tuning of the EFI, it also retains their throttle system, and works just like an EFI throttle body. I even considered converting to straight gas (LPG, we call it gas down under) and running LPG injectors inside the SU's, they are much more compact, and i could hide the whole system. EFI type driveability (and can be boosted through the SU's) with an average 110 octane fuel for about 70 cents (au) a litre. unfortunately there is about $4000 worth of conversion costs, AND id need to build a high comp 11-12:1 ratio engine to make the most of it.

Ok, i managed to score a V2.2 Megasquirt for $180 (au) which is incredibly cheap (normally around the $600 mark prebuilt around here), so thats in my hot little hands now. i was thinking about using the stock L28 manifold, but as has been stated many times before, they flow like crap. So, custom is the flavour of the day. My Biggest problem is the car MUST be daily driven. Yea, i know, thats a tough one. current engine in the car is a L28 block, with flat tops, and N42 head So, i have 2 ideas. (feel free to shoot holes in them) Idea 1. remove the SU's and spacers, and replace the spacers with a piece of alloy, thick enough to mount 2 injectors in it, then bolt the SU's back on. so a total of 4 injectors. I have injectors big enough (just) to do this allready. (i did think about mounting the injectors inside gutted SU's, but cant make them fit) I can retain the SU's for daily driving when i need to, and switch to the EFI for tuning till its all set properly, then remove the SU's and replace with a throttle body, most likely the throttle body off a CA18 engine in place of each carb. I have a rather plentiful supply of them, and they have a 50mm butterfly on them. Idea 2. Weld on injector bungs to the standard carb manifold, and set the injectors up as multiport injection. Using the same injectors as before, but 6 of them, they will be more that adequate. (From a straight 6, 4.0L engine) Same as before, keep the carbs in place, and switch to EFI for tuning. Once done, replace the carbs with throttle bodies. For the fuel system, id mount a EFI pump and surge tank in the engine bay, yes i know, not the best place, but for the setup and tuning, i can feed the facet pump into it to keep it full, and return all the fuel form the rail into it, shouldn't starve out the engine at all, when its all set up, I'll move it to the back. Ignition system will be individual coils, allready building the crank trigger. Changing over between carbs and EFi, would merely be a case of re routing the fuel line from the facet pump to the surge tank, and changing some HT leads. Ideally, i would like to build an individual throttle body manifold, one throttle in each runner. And i was thinking about using the throttle plates (Or whole body) out of the CA18, but with a butterfly at 50mm, would it be too big for 6 of them? wouldn't have any problems with flow. Should have a theoretical surface area of 11778mm'2 with 6 of them. (i think my maths is right?) would that make the engine bog down in low rpm? I guess if i go with option 2, at least then i allready have the fuel system set up and tuned to swap straight over to the 6 throttle manifold, just need to tweak the mixtures for the extra flow. i was also thinking that maybe i could position the injectors inside the plenum, pointing right down the runners, straight at the throttle plates. If i could get the engine to rev, and flow all the air, it would potentially make some serious top end power. Ideas? thoughts? opinions? all criticism welcome. Alan.

leave their dead corpses lying around the shed as a warning to others from entering. I tried it once with mormans, and Mr Po-po-50 came knocking on my door. as a side thought. the other thing you could try is building a moat around your shed. would need to be at least 2 foot wide though, and about a foot deep. Fill it with water, and keep leaf and crud build up out of it. line the shed side with a slippery surface, even just laminated plastic sheet would do, they cant climb it.

Yep, heres a pic of the 767B mazda engine. Woooo, pretty. (this complete engine would make a kiiler conversion) as for controlling it with an aftermarket ECU, i would imagine all you would need is a stepper control module, capable of controlling the motors, and a reference from the ECU telling it where it needs to be in relation to the RPM table. Some ECU's may even have the load capability to control the motors directly

What did you say about mechanics?!?!??! I'll bash you with this wrench!! :grin: Yea, its funny how it goes isn't it. I had a couple of blokes hassle me one day on my lunch break, were keen for a fight till i walked back to the workshop to get my breaker bar. anyways, top jokes!!

chances are the computer is probably fine. especially if its completely stock. and if the computer is blown, just plug a new one in and away you go. someone will have one, after they have converted to megasquirt or something. If possible (call them first) do a compression test on the engine when your there, to make sure the cylinders arent down on pressure, that could indicate a dead or dying engine. pull the inlet off the turbo, and check for oil in the compressor, and the pipework. feel the shaft of the turbo for side to side movement, and back and forwards movement. if there is lots (more than about .8mm), the turbo is stuffed. while you have one of the spark plugs out, and one of the pistons at its full travel at the top of the bore, look at it, and possibly gently feel it with a screwdriver to see if the pistons are flat tops, or dished pistons. If they are dished (which they should be for a turbo) then it wont really be so good for a NA block, as the comp ratio will be getting pretty low. It would still work, just wouldn't feel that powerful.

oh, and head questions, look here!!! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127521

I wouldn't discount a tough NA engine. I have driven a LOT of different cars, and part of the enjoyment of driving IMO is the feel and the noise. Yea, turbo's sound hot, and can be extremely powerful, but too much lag can ruin that experience, especially in a daily (Till you rip someone a new one at the traffic lights) then on the other hand, having an engine with a nice broad torque band, crisp exhaust sound, and awesome induction noise from some tripple carbs will still make your crotch itchy in all the right ways. if you want to do a cheap build (and learn and build on it for later) then go with a decent exhaust system, good cam, and either a set of properly jetted 2" jag SU's or the standard round top SU's. All of that on our standard L24 would be cheap and fun. for a bit more power do it on the L28 block. For different block and head combinations (and other things) check this site out. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

NismoZ, not to be confused with Nizm0zed!!!! Im heaps cooler :mrgreen: i refer you here, http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Much coolness in that program, lets you see rough ideas of the completed engine, and play around with combo's too, And its FREE!!!!! just a quick one i threw up there, using a L26 block, and LD28 crank (diesel) with L26 rods and pistons you get a square bore engine that'd rev really well. Changing the head adjusts the comp ratio (note, i have it set with a 2.0mm head gasket), if you could only get a 1.8mm gasket, you could allways get .2mm skimmed off the top of the pistons) E31 head - 10:1 comp ratio E88 head - 10:1 comp ratio N47 head - 9.65:1 comp ratio P90 head - 8.37:1 comp ratio

Why mount the turbo backwards in the tom kit? Is there any particular advantage or reason to it?

dunno, but mine did it the other night too, jumped in to go get pizzas, flicked the lights on, and nothing, only parkers. Flicked them off and on and no good, checked the fuses, all good. pulled the stick back for highbeams, they came on, then turned them off and the low beams worked. No idea why, im guessing perhaps it was some sort of ground or power issue through the 30 year old switch? just took a bit of movement to clean the contacts?

Hey, just thought id say hi, the name is Alan, and im from Australia, When im not riding in a Kangaroo's pouch, i have my zed:-D I picked up my 260Z for $800, rust wise, its in brilliant condition, a few tiny patches, pretty good considering an equivalent would be around the $1600-$2500 mark round here. Its got white vynil and blue velour interior, and its in good nic, the dash is cracked, but i just got a new one to repair and recover, and replace it. Long term mods will be the fitment (or shoehorning?) of a Vh45 engine in there, along with a 5 speed from a 300Zx. Till then though, I'll just have to do little mods to things. I have put in a stereo, there is a sub box that fills the space from just in front of the rear strut towers, upto the back of the seats, I have a 10" woofer in there, and some 6.5" speakers next to it, pretty much behind each headrest. Got some 6.5" speakers going inthe doors in some custom fibreglass pods i made, and just finished putting in an alarm and central locking, Got a electric boot popper in there too Power windows to come soon. Latest mod was finished yesterday arvo. I reckon i picked up at least 20kw with this one :-D Now, if i can only find where to put my can of spinach in, my car will be tough as nails to boot. anyways, heres a few crap pics of my car. I'll get some more after i have washed it and done a bit more to it.

Can you ground the ECU case? To limit any electrical noise into its internal circuitry? high end ECU's (top shelf MoTec) do this, as well as RF shielding over sensitive sensor wires. i may be way off, im new to the whole MS thing too, but i would think that a reason for burning out your driver curcuit would be an insufficient ground, creating a large resistance and excess heat???

yea, i definatley wouldn't bag a L26. quick combo for you. L26 block 83mm bore LD28 crank 83mm stroke use the standard L26 pistons and rods and chuck on an E31 head, and you have a motor with a square bore/stroke ratio, so great for revving and making power, and a comp ratio of 10:1 Run it on decent octane fuel, stick in a nice cam and adjust your timing to suit, get it breathing well and you'll have a quick motor that can still be very civil. Wont suck down heaps of juice, and will still be very reliable. If the E31 head is a bit hard to find, then you can allways use an E88 or N47 head and get a 9.6:1 comp ratio. So pretty much all you need to do is swap the crank. And if its not good enough, you could turbo it and see how long it lasts (not long at that comp ratio) or use the crank in a L28 block and build a 3.1L stroker.

sorry, but performance on a budget is a myth. power costs money. anyways, if you want to add a turbo, you'll either need to go blow through, meaning turbo, then through the carbie, then into the motor. advantage being that you can run an intercooler to help with inlet temps. Easier on the turbo too. disadvantage is the carbie needs to be rebuilt to run under pressure, they were never designed to work like that, but its very possible to do. Usually the easiest way to do it is put the carbie in a sealed box, and just pressurize the whole thing, its a pain when it comes to tuning though, and the floats usually need changing, otherwise they crush under the pressure, and flood the motor. Other method is suck through, so, carbie, then turbo, then motor. Much easier, neater looking, no mods needed to the carbie, easier to tune, easier to set up. Disadvantages is there is no possibility of using an intercooler, but the fuel air mix does help to cool the charge, so its almost a mini intercooler in itself. the turbo also needs to be set up to handle fuel going through it, it needs a full face carbon seal fitted in the compressor to stop the fuel from permeating into the centre housing and into the oil supply (dilutes the oil and ruins the bearings) you'll get more power again if you add in fuel injection. If you just go with EFI, It wont be a major power increase, you'll notice a lot easier starting, better economy, better cruising and a bit smoother running, but its a great base to have in place once you go and drop an eight in there, to really unleash its potential. For budget, id be looking at getting it breathing well, so a good flowing exhaust system, maybe some headwork, and a boxed off cold air intake to your carbs

should be able to replicate them as "Show Plates" for when the car is on display. then you can keep them safe when not in use and they will last forever.